1947 plymouth in need of words of wisdom

I didn't take any pics of cutting the frame but basically what I did was I cut about 1 foot of the inner frame rail out, took a 1" strip out of the top and bottom of the piece and welded the inner frame rail back in place.
The driver side tie rod ends needed about 1/2" of the threaded part cut off to get the adjustment back, the passenger side was fine.
I also had to drill two holes in the bottom of the dash for the steering column mount and cut a little notch in the firewall to clear the column.

 

Hello working on my 1947 Plymouth, did the Ford in with disc brakes, fuel cell, and air bags, moving to the front end. Wondering which Mustang II kit and which cross member, custom or did you find one for the car?

 

My 48 coupe.Stock front suspension,with the spring mount plates move under the bottom a arms,with stock shocks and drum brakes.It has a GM 1" MC with booster and it stops real well.Motor is a 305 chevy with a 200 r4 box,Steering box is a Ford with a GM column,which with a 16"steering wheel makes for easy steering.Out back i fitted a 3rd Gen Camaro 10 bolt with 3.73 gears.We need a parking brake over here to be road legal,something the original axle didnt have.I also made up 3" deeper mount plates to get the old girl down a bit.Great car,love it to bits.

 

Looking to figure out the best method for upgrading my front end?
IFS or rebuild what I have?


I want the drive train to be new, disc brakes, air ride suspension.
Seems expensive to put in the IFS, 5 grand. looking for input on what has already been done.

 

The OEM front end is IFS, needs discs & a shock relocation. Could put in a sub frame from a Camaro, Chevelle, Cutlass, ect.

 

Rebuild the stock front suspension, add an Olddaddy disc brake kit, fab some very simple upper shock mounts to move the shock mount to the frame and you are good to go.

I have owned both a subframed car which was my first 48 Plymouth and a stock rebuild which is my current 48 Plymouth. The stock modified as stated above will ride everybit as nice as the subframe and you can do it all in a godd solid day's work. No worries with building bumper mounts, sheet metal mounts, radiator mount etc as the stock frame already has it all there for you.

 

I'm bumping this to let fellow plymouth owners know that, JW Rod Garage offers a M2 style front end for less then $2000. A lot of good advice and insight in this thread

 

Definitely use the S10 frame and the big block Chev power. Then put an S10 body on it and sell the Plymouth to someone who wants a Plymouth.

Seriously, the Plymouth was one of the ugliest cars made. But it had a heart of gold in the form of an excellent chassis and engine. I can't imagine why anyone would want to keep the body and throw the rest away.

At least buy a Ford or Chev or something halfway decent looking. Or, if you want a Camaro just buy a damn Camaro.

 

...very old thread, wonder what actually happened to that car?

 

Do you still have the 9 inch?

 

Long gone. Sorry.

 

Probably hauled away to the junk yard still in pieces, or up on cement blocks in the back yard. Chance of the OP building a car with Plymouth body, S10 frame and 396 engine, and making a good car is practically nil.

 

So did you ever complete your car?

 

Are there specific years and models of ford 9" rear ends that are bolt in? Are there Mopar bolt in rears that would work?

 

To the best of my knowledge there are no truly bolt-in rears for '46-'48 Plymouths. There are plenty which will work with just a change of spring pads. Measure your stock rear axle width and then head for Pick-a-Part. Ford 9-inch axles are a good choice because they have so many choices of center sections as well as being both common and cheap.

 

Might want to check in here too: http://p15-d24.com/

 

The 65-67 C body is a bolt in except it moves the axle forward about an inch.