Art & Inspiration Hot rod parts you would like to see produced.

How about a bunch of inexpensive high performance parts for small block Chevys.
Just kidding.

 

I sold an Edmunds 2x4 intake on ebay last year for $2800 to an Allard guy who said he was going to use it to make a mold to reproduce them. I also sold a Edelbrock 4x2 several years back to a guy for $4000 with carbs and linkage. The stuff does sell, but it takes time.

 

I just picked up a stock cross over and will use it for dimensions for the casting pattern! I would like to see all the angles of pictures of the PAW unit as to the placement of the water neck.

 

There seems to quite a bit of interest in hot rodding early Caddy engines. However, the big drawback is the difficulty in finding hop up parts to build one with. Hence, the cost of early Cad hot rod parts. This is very apparent with intakes, and valve train parts.

It'd be great to find a good set of new adjustable rockers, instead of used Studebaker ones.

 

Did you get a stock one ?

 

Yes, I got a stock one.

 

If you are going to make a pattern, just remember to allow shrinkage...

 

I know about that, I have done another pattern for casting my wide five adapter covers. I learned a lot on my first endeavor into pattern making. I am quite versed in the shrink rates and proper gating.

 

1950's License plate frames with the glass and hinged back panel, Hideaway antenna with the large base and round ball tip, single wire curb feelers, a kit to do a proper sunk license plate in a car body with glass cover and rounded corners. There isn't a modern take on any of these that's any good. Agood one below.


© see info on the photos. (Rik Hoving Kustoms)

P5230261.JPG


Uploaded: June 03, 2009

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The License frame and Hideaway antenna picture of essential 50's parts


© see info on the photos. (Rik Hoving Kustoms)

P6180005


Uploaded: June 20, 2005

 

How about a no-name finned aluminum valve cover for a 235-261??

 

The valve cover is quite doable.

 

Cragar blower kits for the early cad motors. Weiand heads for 49-53 ford and merc.

 

Where are you thinking about parting the pattern for the water crossover? Consider you're going to want a nice looking casting that can be used as is, not everyone is going to want to smooth and polish the part.

 

I have been thinking about that, any suggestions?

 

The parting line is quite prominent in this picture I found. After giving it some thought, I think that is pretty much the only good way to do it. Not great news if you weren't going to make a master and have a matchplate made up. You can still make a split 2 piece pattern, it's just going to be a lot more work with that offset parting line. This positioning offers a very good way of locating the core without having to worry about tipping. At each end facing down would be a coreprint in the drag. Where the thermostat housing is will have a split coreprint half in the drag and half in the cope.

There isn't a good way to change the parting line location without a ton of extra work, so I guess the answer would be to make sure the foundry doing your aluminum castings can deliver high quality.

 

I have one to look at and came to the same conclusions. The foundry that I am using did a great job on the last thing I had done. I spent about 2 hours contemplating the pattern last night. I think that I will make a wooden model to actual size to bolt on an engine before I make the actual pattern. That way I will have exact measurements of the design to work from.

 

SBC 471 BLOWER INTAKE MANIFOLD
I am in the process of making the patterns to reproduce this intake in the photo. If anyone is interested send me a message for more details etc.

FOR INTEREST
I have just finished making this Flathead V8 471 Blower intake in photos. This is now available direct from myself or from my distributor Jerry Hopkins in the USA email texasfordman@gmail.com phone 903 875 9557

 

I know this might not be what was wanted by some people. I might be tempted to split that in half. Right- left. Make it so a piece of radiator hose could be clamped in. That way it would work with the different head combinations that were mentioned and a bit more forgiving with shrinkage problems. No awkward looking fittings. I will admit I know nothing about Hemi engines. Just looking at making it work on more applications.

 

Last night I worked on the prototype crossover. I am going to make the main tube out of box tubing with the flanges welded to it. I designed the head flanges in CAD, and will do the thermostat flange tonight then I can send dxf files to the water jet place. I think that I might make a few of these in steel if anyone is interested.

After I make a prototype that I am sure will work I will make the pattern. This will be a bit of a challenge compared to my last pattern because the the parting line is not flat. The board will have to be contoured top and bottom to match the parting line.

 

You might want to think about using some tooling plastics to your benefit. These can really come in handy with creating funky offsets where it would be hard to create by hand 2 sides that matched perfectly.
If you figure out your parting line and create the raised offset you can then make a mold and a plug to assist you with creating the sunken in half of the offset.

Just think of the pattern as existing from the parting line up and you're building a block (that is wider than the pattern) which fits the bottom of the pattern, has steep draft on all sides, and a flat base.

So now you've got your offset created, and you build one half of the pattern to fit onto its corresponding offset. Once that is done and correct, you can go about building the other half of the pattern to fit against the first half of the pattern. Good center lines and having nice dowel holes through both halves are very important, as is a nice layout if possible.

https://www.freemansupply.com/produ...-cast-polyurethanes/repro-fast-cast-urethanes

I would recommend the use of Repro 10. Very nice stuff to work with, and quite forgiving.


That was an interesting thought I might add, about splitting this part into two halves and adding two flanges. As far as practicality and interchangeability go, that would solve it all. I don't know how good it would look being connected by a short piece of rubber hose, though certainly it would look more at home than AN fittings.

 

Thanks for the pattern advice. I was thinking about having an upper and lower profile gauge water jet so I can check the top to bottom match. Doweling is a good idea to make sure that the bottom and top halves align. I have a place that can 3D print the patterns, but I think that I want to do them in wood because I like to have my hands on it in a traditional sort of way.

 

1. "Everyday" radials for '20s/'30s cars. The idea is that they'd present roughly like the stock tyres viewed side-on but offer a little bit of extra width in addition to radial construction and a decent speed rating, say H. They'd do a lot for the practicality of using a stock(ish) pre-war car daily.

As an example, a 450x19 equivalent with around 7½" of section width would work out to a 195/65R19H. I don't think I've ever seen that size advertised.

Excelsior Stahls are generally a bit tall for the desired width. A lot of modern crossover SUV tyres come close but are generally too wide for the desired diameter.

2. Triple-leading-shoe (or even quadruple-leading-shoe) non-self-energizing drum brakes using popular Buick etc. drums. One slave cylinder per shoe gives better feel than the ultimately more powerful Bendix arrangement, but an extra leading edge or two would make up for that. Internally ventilated drums?

 

That's what I like, I can always count on Ned Ludd to be thinking outside the box. Sometimes way outside but hey that's what the pioneers of our hobby did.

 

If I can get time on the 3D scanner at work, I can get the stock one scanned and rendered in CAD. I just bought on that auction site, and it should be here on Monday, or so.

I have access to 3D printing services that could print a Buick fender or an engine block, so this would not be a challenge.

 

I have started a thread on the Hemi crossover and will be taking questions and ideas for that specific part on that thread.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...-application-from-idea-to-production.1046453/

 

There are some other great ideas in this thread so look through it and see if there is something else that you want to take on or want me to try to produce. Add more ideas!

 

Great thread topic!

 

Stromberg 94`s and 97`s with the fuel inlet on the opposite side of the carb. body. When used in multiples, the fuel lines wouldn`t look like an after thought. You`re welcome, Just send me a couple bucks.