Technical Bolts needed for engine hoist&stand

Am renting an engine hoist. Bought an engine stand from Harbor Freight. Am going to pull my GMC270 6cylinder.
What size/length bolts do I need to
1. pull the engine
2. Mount the engine on the stand.
Thanks

 

I'm replying to this just to see any additional replies. It could be interesting.

 

Well, here goes ... first we gotta see your engine stand .... we'll go from there.

 

Its the 1000lb stand that they sell. Haven't assembled yet.
http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-capacity-engine-stand-69520.html

 

Guess I will be the first, friend has couple of those stands, to me they are pretty shaky, even with a little sbc hanging on it. I would never put an inline engine on one, just my thoughts, tho.

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Can you put an inliner on one sideways like a Flathead?

 

Does it say in the assembly instructions? I just bought the HF 2000 lb stand myself a couple of weeks ago, I wanted the extra legs for more stability.

 

Yikes. The Horror Frought engine stand I've experienced would droop like an 80 y.o. dong under the weight of a small block Chevy. That big Jimmy is just shy of 800# fully dressed so please be careful. Be ready to block up the snout end and don't even consider trying to rotate it over on there.
I don't know the bolt off the top of my head but I'd pull one from the bell and then add an inch, get matching nuts and sturdy washers


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That stand looks a bit lightweight to support an inline 6-cyl.
If not already assembled and still within time period for return, why not spend a little more and get their 2,000 # version. It folds up (somewhat) to take up less room. Note the 3rd swivel caster.
Alot heavier made.

http://www.harborfreight.com/2000-lb-Capacity-Foldable-Engine-Stand-69521.html

Don't know what length of bolts; depends on the stand and its mounting arms.
Whatever size bolts you need; should be Grade 8s

 

Although I have put a 250 and a 292 chevy on one of those stands I think I would put some kind of outboard support on the end of the crank on a Jimmy 270/302. That's a lot of torque on a sketchy probably poorly welded stand that is meant for engines quite a bit shorter than an inline six. I'd hate to have one of those fall on my foot / kid / dog / anything precious let alone break a fairly uncommon engine.

 

Then there's the unique narrow bolt pattern on the block which can be a hassle without a specially made mount.

 

This stand will work but it is a little lighter than I like. 4 wheels are what is important and a must. The rear engine bolts are are 7/16" course with a 5/8" head and these holes are normally for 3/8" bolts; I had to drill mine out. Be sure to use flat washers. Some of the sliders are hard to make work as the bellhousing bolting is fairly close not like a V8. I have had my GMC 's on this type for 45 yrs. Be careful rolling it around especially with the cylinder head on.

 

...

 

"I could swap it for the 2000 lb stand"

 

might be a good idea.

when you get the engine stand, measure how long the 7/16" bolts need to be, to fit through the holes...add 3/4" for thread engagement...

 

As others have said, that 6 is no light weight, nor is it balanced nicely.
A STOUT, FOUR WHEELED stand is a must, NOT an option.

 

It's big block weight and cantilevered out there.
I believe the bolts are 7/16"-14 grade 8


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chevy 235 uses 7/16".....????

 

digging through old pics to see if I can find the right one....

 

Don't think those flimsy HF stands were around 45 years ago.

 

I might add, use graded bolts for safety, not ungraded bolts! Make sure you use HD washers as well between so bolt doesn't seat directly on arms.

 

I've used one very similar for the last 10 years or so without any dramas. I use old head bolts with flat washers. I've had complete six cylinder Holden motors on it AND rotated them carefully. I've also had a v8 Holden and a SBC on it. Both times were without the heads. What I don't do is wheel it across uneven surfaces.
It's like any tool. Abuse it and it'll bite you back.

 

My old Pontiac engines take a 7/16ths bell housing bolt so I use small block chevy head bolts with flat washers...work great.

 

dtwbcs, Just a quick way to get notification on this thread.

 

Craigslist is loaded with engine stands. Here's one near you that's a little sturdier than the HF piece..........
http://austin.craigslist.org/tls/5938646979.html

As far as bolts, as stated pull a bellhousing bolt. That's the diameter. For the length, measure the length of the boss on the rotating head then add 1-1/2" or so. Grade 8 bolts and grade 8 washers and you're good to go!

 

Ok, I will return it and get the 2000# model. A review stated he had a 292 on it. I will take a bell housing bolt for size. What size do I need for removing engine? Do I pick a head bolt and get it extra long to go thru chain?

 

for chevy sixes, i made a plate that uses the bolt holes for the coil bracket and has a hole to hook a chain to. i either loop the other end of the chain around the intake/exhaust or, if the intake/exhaust are off i bolt the chain to the head using one of the intake/exhaust bolts.

 

I've got a heavy duty 4 wheel stand (not HF) holding my 261. Still worried me with the stability so I used the side motor mounts to run long threaded rod inside square stock down to a cross member. It's just for storage so don't need to rotate it.