Technical Vega steering box

Go back and read the thread

How can you or anyone even begin to unscramble the eggs here? Help the guy out? According to him we are wrong. Like i said that car's front end is 31 flavors of just plain wrong

 

I read it, and i agree with you 100% wrong and very scary.

 

I'm curious as to why a few people said to not do cross steer on a parallel spring front? This is extremely common in the off-road vehicle world, in fact, it's recommended

 

The key here is axle location. The springs are trying to locate the axle in every direction, but so are the radius rods (except for the vertical) but they do not move the same way when they move, so the suspension is always going to be in a bind. Also there's no track locator bar, or anti-sway, so it's gonna handle like a old Dodge Powerwagon. Wobbly. As you steer, the axle will move sideways with relation to the frame.

There are only shackles on one end of the leafs, and no axle sliders, so as the front of the car rises and falls, the radius rods are going to push on the axle, forward and back, fighting with the springs. This is going to cause jacking, dog-tracking and twisting, bind the joints, loosen the u-bolts & crack the frame.

As the car rolls, it's gonna fight the steering, and as you turn the wheel it's going to roll the suspension instead of steering.

Believe the HAMB guys when they tell you there is NO GOOD WAY to make these things work together well, in anything like a light, efficient and attractive manner.

 

It works on my old Scout because of very stiff spring packs, but it's still prone to wobble, and thus has a steering damper. (Hydraulic stabilized.) With soft springs these parallel leaf jobs tend to wander all over. When I added weight to the front I had to stiffen the springs to prevent jacking.