Just got a 36 coupe and the door handles are already shaved. It has the original style latches. Is there a way to install solenoids on the old school latches or do you have to put bearclaw on them. I've searched and not had any luck. Don't see a way to install bearclaw without messing up paint and having to do some fab. Right now I'm stuck with leaving the window down. Any ideas are appreciated. Thanks Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Yes you can. It takes a little Math and fab work. The biggest issue is understanding what needs to be done. It don't seem to be written anyplace but what I learned way back when is it takes leverage and travel with a bell crank. Wish I had photos of the pieces on the bench for you. A flange bearing with a 1/4" hole and 2 arms. Transfer forward pull to down pull and make sure you get full pull to release the door latch and be sure the cylonoid gets Full travel. The longer the arms can be the easier it is on the power unit. DO NOT use any cable parts. Make it hard rods with clips like old throttle lincage. If your latch has a locking mechanism be sure to freeze it in unlocked position. The Wizzard
Well maybe if it's a direct pull. A simple bell crank can very easily triple the pull power. The Wizzard
Was thinking of attaching where the rod attaches to go to the inside handle. Not sure it would work out. Hmmmm. Maybe leaving the window down at installing bear claws. I just hate to cut it up since it's painted already. Wish the guy I got it from would have done some thinking before he shaved the handles. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I see what you did. Good idea maybe I can make something similar that will work for mine. Looks good. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
You can attach the power linkage to that point but it would require a Slot as you can see in my photo so that when throwing the latch it don't move the inside handle. Also so when you use the inside handle it don't move the popper. The inside handle has a spring to keep it parked in the proper position. You don't want to have to over ride 2 springs with the power unit. It takes more power to do that. The Wizzard
Yep. Good idea. I didn't think about having to notch the arm. This maybe trickier than I thought Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
So I mentioned Math. The 2 numbers you start with is total movement needed for the latch finger. Then how much travel the Popper needs for total travel. The more travel in the popper the better the pull power. You must make sure you use FULL travel of both. If the door latch bottoms out before the power unit bottoms it will soon brake up the door latch unit. The slot in the handle pull rod is a simple to do item. The Wizzard
Why does everyone nowadays want to over engineer a situation???Hell back in the 50s,we just used a starter solenoid and a short cable,,,
are you sure the old door handle hole could not be opened up easily? is it welded up or maybe just plugged and smoothed over with bondo?
SMH, I'm sure you have seen that one latch has a broken return spring and the other is missing it's spring. Both of those need to be replaced with stock style springs. That cheezy little spring on the one won't do the job. I always get 40lb rated units. When you have good weather strip and doors that don't rattle you need the good pull to get the latch to release. The Wizzard
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