If I find one, then I will have to keep it, which means I will have to find another car to put it in. Its a slippery slope!
Probably a cowinkadink but I saw a really nice 58 going down the road in the rain today. Looked like a mild custom from the 60's.
Cool deal, thanks I will read the whole thing. Where did you get it from? Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
One step closer to hanging her between the rails for a test fit. Got the unnecessary stuff stripped off the motor for now and my hurst mount bolted on. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I have been watching this thread as I have had similar thoughts for my 34 5 window. I like the look of something different, not to go out and turn 10's. In the late 70s I had to drive a haychopper with a 409 on it. It was straight piped straight up and run at max govenor for 10-12 hours a day for a month at at time. We would change the oil once a week and it would be black. I can still hear the exhaust after all these years. So when I picked up a 6x2 intake and gaskets the wheels started turning. Dont know yet what I will settle on.
Scored this super clean 62 425hp dual quad intake for a great price. I have made the decision to go with new edelbrock aluminum heads when I do the rebuild for the usual advantages including the weight savings off the front end of the coupe. Of course I could go with two new edelbrock carbs but for discussion sake any thoughts on other carb options? Not anything new like holleys etc, so obviously that leaves Rochester or afb's. Think it would look cool with a couple early rochesters on it but Jim suggested they may be tough to make work in that configuration. Fire away! Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
There isn't much difference in looks from a Rolls Royce to a Model T Ford, both have 4 wheels The original Carters (with a different size air cleaner ring than the e-clones) used on the 409 were 625 CFM. Rochester offered a high performance version of the 4-G carburetor in a 625 CFM size with manual choke (numbers 7015091, 7019084). Tuning parts are readily available mail order. If you want to be different........ Rochester got an undeserved "bad rep" from the hot-rodders for a couple of reasons: (1) as Rochester never really catered to the aftermarket, unlike Holley, every parts store in the world does not carry parts, (2) the 625 CFM was the largest size for the 4-G series. Also, few books have been written on the 4-G, and few enthusiasts take the time to understand this excellent carburetor. Jon.
That's true. But the later 9000 series Carters have the same size tops as the Edelbrocks. Getting rid of the red tag and the Endurashine finish would go a long way toward making the carbs look more period correct. Originals.
I transplanted a 425 hp 409 into my '63 Impala (originally a 327/powerglide car). The engine was built using a block, crank and rods from a '65 truck. The heads and dual quad intake are factory '63 425 hp pieces. I had Isky ground a cam to the factory 425 hp specs. Pistons are from Ross. I'm no expert, but I learned some things during this process. Every thing about these is expensive, I have about $11,000 the purchase of and rebuild of the engine. I've noticed a few posts that mention raising compression and changing heads. The combustion chambers on a 409 are in the block, so changing heads can change flow, but will not change compression. As for the dual quad carbs (I know this doesn't apply to you using tri power), I had the factory correct carbs, sent them to a 409 carb expert for rebuilds ($500), and I couldn't get the car to run right. Bought two 500 cfm Edelbrocks from Pep Boys, and the car runs great. Sold the factory carbs to a restorer for a pile of cash. Last thing, with a tripower on it, most folks will think it's a 348, but so what, it'll still be cool as hell. I say go for it!
The 333 truck heads do have a slight combustion chamber in them, the car heads are all flat. Ross pistons will go a long way toward making a performance engine out of any of the 409s.
None of the old engines are inexpensive. Don't start unless you are financially prepared. The 409 needs an experienced machine shop to do it correctly.
Thanks for more chatting on the subject. Yes I'm aware of the fact this is not the cheap way to go as far as motors go. This is my lifelong dream build as I have always wanted a 30's coupe so not gonna sweat over some money spent on a motor that's a wicked as a 409. I don't like half ass builds on motors so it will get the full treatment of the right parts. I got to know the old 4g well on my 56 so I'm not afraid to play with them, I have just never ran duals before so that's gonna be the learning curve. I do not want to unnecessarily make life difficult but I want a motor that looks like a 60's motor. Doesn't have to be "perfect" but close to would be good. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Looks like you're on the track to rebuild it. Plenty of good info, check out the stroker crank ideas, think it's a 454 crank swapped in. Even if you don't go his route it's interesting reading. Better have a good machinist. Post up details on the rebuild, did 2 of these with my father for SS Impala resto's. Can't get enough 409 action around here. www.hotrod.com/articles/ccrp-0802-409-chevy-engine/amp/
I think they do from the factory. Also the 348 truck engines have the dipstick on the passenger side. And since the dipstick is in the oil pan and the pans are (basically) interchangeable, it might be a good idea to check a little further when you're trying to id an engine. Of the top of my head so take it for what it's worth. (Not very much)
Both of mine do, 1 truck and one passenger car. But the pans do interchange with the 348 engine. Gary
Yup. Thats what i kinda thought. So i am buying a 348 truck engine this weekend and it has the dipstick on the passenger side.
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