My plan so far is to use a pull plate on the intake with a load leveler, and pull the motor and trans together with a motor hoist / cherry picker. I'm used to small block fords so this is a whole different ball game to me. What's the best way to unbolt the motor mounts? Do I have to remove the radiator support and grill? I've sold the car so I have to be careful with the body. I've got a beam on a pole barn and a chain hoist that would support the 1000 pounds but I'd be working on dirt. It might be worth it if I didn't have to pull that grill off though. Just lift it up and push the car back maybe. What do y'all think?
If it were me I would separate the engine from the transmission. Although I have done it the way that you describe, it is not the easy way and I have managed to stuff a tail shaft through a windshield before even when I had a big friend to help me.
The combined weight of the engine/trans exceeds 1000 lbs. The engine alone is about 765 lbs. I totally agree with Benno about separating them. If you had the whole front end off, it wouldn't be so bad to pull together, but the way you are going about it (not a negative comment, just the fact) separating would be best, in my (our) opinion. However, if you haven't done one of these before, getting the torque converter bolts (actually nuts) requires the engine crankshaft be rotated. You have to remove the lower flywheel cover and the nuts are on the engine side of the the crankshaft flange. There are studs on the TC that go though holes in the crank flange. If it were me, I'd separate the main case of the transmission from the bell housing, just four bolts as I recall, and leave the rest attached to the engine until you have it out. That will shorten it by close to two feet and lighten it up considerably. Ray
If you want to pull it ***embled start by removing the crossmember, start lifting toward the front of the engine until you get it to where the engine is pointing up and the tailshaft is on the ground(plywood).Make a temporary support(2x4s) to hold the front of the engine for a minute so you can move your lift chain back.This will give you a little more even lift.Lift the engine\trans straight up as far as you can and roll the car back away from it.To avoid ****** syndrome put a large piece of plywood against the firewall that sticks up over the windshield. I know you can do this because I did it on my buddys 55 Chrysler MANY years ago.You need two people.
Is the imperial nice? or beat down? If its a 2dr hardtop, you missed out on your future 300 style driver. Also, one of these is super useful. https://www.amazon.com/Oberg-Tilt-L...id=1490050498&sr=8-1&keywords=oberg+tilt+lift
The motor is stuck so no go on the converter bolts. I didn't know the bell would separate from the trans. That's exactly what I'll do. I haven't got a good look at the motor mounts yet. But I see several bolts in them. What's the best way to get them off?
You can unbolt the cushion from the bracket or the bracket from the block ears. Let us know when you are ready to remove the bell/starter plate and converter. It is a PITA but doable in the right order...... .
This is for anyone that hits this thread later, - There are two bolts coming straight up from the bottom that hold the motor mount to the frame. They are VERY easy to get to.. I found this out AFTER I unbolted the six not very easy to get to ones from the block ears.
Not for nothing, but there is no way I would use a pull plate bolted to the intake to lift an engine that heavy. Just sayin'. Don't get yourself hurt. Andy
On my 56 buick station wagon I had to drop the cross member and took off the grill and pulled the motor and trans in 1 shot by myself BUT,I had a very good heavy duty U,S,A.made cherry picker.Just sayin.Bruce.
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