Customs Replacing the turn signal switch on a 1960 Edsel....

According to the 1960 Edsel wiring diagram that I have - the right side is orange/blue.

The left side is orange/green.

Over the years the "blue tracer" on your wire may have faded in color and now appears to be black.

Using your test lead with 12 volts - apply the 12 volts to the dissconnected side THAT GOES INTO THE DASH. NOT UP THE STEERING COLLUM.

There has been no mention of applying the brake pedal in this test proceedure - its not necessary.

Using your contact wire from the hot fuse in the fusebox to the orange/black wire is a direct feed to the right lite. The brake switch is not a consideration in this turn signal switch test.

In this case of you not being sure of the condition of the wiring it might be best to have a second person monitoring the right tail light.
Then you can just "momentarily" apply the 12 volt to the orange/black wire and the person monitoring the lite can tell you whats happening.

In the case of a dead short (unlikely but a possibility) you dont want to burn the wire if it is indeed grounded.

Go for it!

Oldmics

 

I tried to unplug the orange and black wire under the dash from the other wire but couldn't so I took 2 pairs of pliers and twisted them back and forth until they became disconnected from each other. However it looks like they were soldered together and it wasn't a plug. So I connected the test light to a hot fuse on the fuse box and touched it to both sides of the wire but the test light didn't light up. Then I tried it again with the key turned on but it didn't light up then either. Now I guess I'll cut off both ends of that plug thing and twist the wires together and then put on some electrical tape over that. What's my next move after that?

 

Did you apply voltage (not the test lite) from your alligator lead test lead to the side that went into the harness?

The test lite will not conduct voltage like the test wire will do.

Oldmics

 

They've got you chasing your tail.... If the left brake light works and both rear turn signals work, the problem is the switch... period. The wiring to the rear brake lights is good because both brake/turn signals work. The brake light wiring INTO the switch is good because the left brake light works. So the problem is the switch is failing to apply brake power to the right brake/turn light; it's either a bad contact in the switch, or a broken wire in the switch. In any case, it's the switch; checking the external wires will tell you nothing you don't already know....

 

I hooked up the alligator clip to a hot fuse and the other end to the orange and black wire and believe it or not the right brake light came on! Does that mean that I don't have to remove the steering wheel and replace the turn signal switch? If so what do I need to do now to get both brake lights to work when I press down on the pedal? Thanks again for your help....

 

the sound you hear is me hitting myself with a BFH.once steve wrote his reply.I reread your original post and it clearly said the rear signals worked just the brake light did not.as the judge in a trial says the jury will please disregard the preceding.this is to say that I now agree that it is the switch.hopefully you can clean it.you asked where to get contact cleaner if you have a radio shack still near you they should have it.

 

Have also found electrical contact cleaner at Lowes and Ace Hardware.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo

 

Ok ,now you have confirmed that the wiring is good FROM the switch to the tail light.

It has to be a bad t/s switch.

You definatly have voltage coming from the brake lite switch. That is proven since the left brake lite works.

There is only one wire that supplys voltage from the brake lite switch to the t/s switch.

It is a green wire. That green wire supplys the 12 volts TO the t/s switch for everything.

While there is no need to check and see if you have 12 volts running into the t/s switch since the left side is working, you can confirm by using your test probe lite tool and check to see that it lites up by poking the green wire.

Time for t/s switch.

eBays your only source for an original one.

The suggestions to clean the t/s switch never worked for me. I"ve only installed 100 or so t/s switchs in my day.

Good luck

Oldmics

 

The only way to get both sides of the brake lites to come on is to scab a wire from the left side lites thru the trunk and onto the right side.

Of course as soon as you turn on your left blinker ALL of your rear lites will blink accordingly.

NOT a substitution I would suggest.

Oldmics

 

OK, it's the turn signal switch. Is that the same as the "turn signal mounting plate, part #B9A-13341-A" which was pictured earlier in this thread? I don't want to end up with another plastic canceling cam like I bought last time. I did a search and came up with the following. Thanks again for the help....

http://dennis-carpenter.com/turn-signal-switch-wire/p/B9A-13341-A/

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/132120265923?rmvSB=true

http://www.mustangsetc.com/59-62-edsel-mercury-galaxie-turn-signal-switch-assembly/

 

In the third link above it looks like there are 7 wires coming from it and mine only has 6. Is that going to be a problem? Their ad says you can't return electrical parts so I'd like to be positive before I blow almost $200 on this thing. Thanks....

 

This is the right one at the best price..... The 'extra' wire is the horn. But before you spend your money, pull the switch loose at the column and make sure it just isn't a broken wire.

 

I agree with Steve to take it apart and do an inspection before spending any money.

You probably wont find anything that can be repaired .

I would call that Mustang group and actually ask someone if they really have that part at that price.

If they dont have it, its eBay ripoff prices for this item.

It is part# B9A-13341-A

Oldmics

 

Tomorrow morning I'll pull the steering wheel and remove the mounting plate and wires to see what kind of shape they're in. I wasn't able to unplug the one wire today without breaking it so hopefully I won't have that problem with all the others. Would spraying some WD-40 on them help to loosen them up a little?

 

They are a compression fit "bullet" connector.

Use two sets of plyers. One on each side of the connection points and rotate the connection.

It will be brittle but it should loosen them enough to pull them apart.

Or just cut the bastards and crimp them individually into the new switch.

Hows your back ?

Oldmics

 

If you can not find a new switch that junkyard up here has a few 60s and are easy to see right now.

 

I think you misunderstand the question/answer. Oldmics suggested using a wire from a power source to connect to the right brake light/signal wire after unplugging it from the switch. Lebowski asked if he could use a test light for that purpose. I answered 'no'. The test light will not act as a conduit of electricity between a power source and an appliance (bulb, for example). The test light, when grounded at one end, only indicates the presence of electricity when the probe is touched to a 'live' power source. The test light circuit cannot be used 'as is' to transmit power, only to detect it.

Ray

 

It's better tonight than it was this morning. I'll try the pliers idea and I'll definitely label all the wires to avoid problems next week when I install the new one. Thanks again....

 

I'll keep that in mind because I would like to walk through that place again when it's cooler and with a lot less vegetation covering everything. I'll let you know, Jeff. Thanks...

 

It was a overgrown mess the last time you were there.

 

I removed a few things and this is what I'm looking at. This doesn't look like the one in the second pic that I'm supposed to replace it with so is that going to be a problem? One thing I should mention is on my current steering wheel it says "Edsel Power Steering" in the center of it and my car doesn't have power steering so at least the horn ring has been changed. Could the whole steering column have been changed? If not then why doesn't my turn signal unit look like the one I'm supposed to replace it with? Like I said before, I want to be absolutely positive that I'm buying the correct one because electrical parts aren't returnable at this Mustangs Etc. place out in California and it's going to cost almost $200 with shipping. Thanks again....

 

Lebowski

Look familiar ??????

 

AAHHHHH , the joys of owning an Edsel

So heres the deal,what you have is a 59 Mercury steering collum. Standard shift vehicle (didnt know you had a stick car).

I"m sure that you already know that they threw any leftover 59 parts they had that would fit for Edsels 1960 final year of production into the cars built to get them out the door.

The necessary t/s switch fits Mercury - 57 and 58 ALL and 59 standard shift only.

Not reproduced BUT eBay is our friend. Follow the links

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-1957-1958-1959-Mercury-turn-signal-switch-FEK-14486-A-Montclair-Monterey-/122078457542?fits=Year:1957|Make:Mercury&hash=item1c6c716ec6:g:Yr4AAOSw6n5XqlUV&vxp=mtr


http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-1957-1958-1959-Mercury-turn-signal-switch-FEK-14486-A-Montclair-Monterey-/122076639791?fits=Year:1957|Make:Mercury&hash=item1c6c55b22f:g:STEAAOSwbsBXqAC8&vxp=mtr

Both of these are being sold by the same person. The second link is a Best Offer situation.

Offer the seller a reasonable "Best Offer" price and cut a deal.

The eBay seller offers a 30 day return policy.

Now,I also have a N.O.S. unit in the box. But I paid more for mine than what is currently on eBay.

The t/s switch pictured above is bad and came out of my 57 Mercury Commuter wagon.

Thats how I was able to identify what yours is.

Oldmics

 

you are right my bad selective reading

 

Oldmics deserves a tip of the hat for going above and beyond.not many would delve into the problem and find the info on the rare switch.hopefully this is the answer to the problem.

 

Thanks for all the info. I emailed the guy and asked if he would take $100 for it including shipping. I'll let you know what happens. Thanks again..............Dave

 

Wow, amazing what we learn here every day. That looks a lot like the '61-'62 Ford C2TZ-13341-A switch.

 

Oldmics................I already heard back from the guy and he said he would accept my offer of $100 including shipping and he's going to mail it today from right next door in Tennessee so I should get it on Thursday or Friday. That beats the hell out of paying almost $200 for the wrong one and then having to wait at least a week to get it from California. Thanks again for helping me out. Let me know if you ever come out this way because there's a nice home-cooked dinner in it for you and a friend and trust me, my wife is a really good cook. When I get it I'll post updates on here and hopefully I'll have two brake lights like a normal car. Thanks again....

 

Make sure to tie a string onto the wires at the bottom of the collum as you remove the old switch.

You will need the string as a guide to pull the new wires back down thru the collum to their under the dash connection point.

I"ll keep the dinner invite in mind.Hopefully I will get out there to see that 60 machine and the rug that really ties that room together!

Let us know how you make out.

Oldmics

 

The wires run along the bottom of the column on the outside. Do you think they were originally inside or could they have come on the outside from the assembly line (in Louisville)? I'll let you know what happens later this week....