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Project 29 Tudor in Mass.

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Mikel50, Apr 17, 2015.

  1. Great job on that dash. Nobody would know it was your first real metal effort. Like the build thread, too.
     
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  2. Mikel50
    Joined: Mar 30, 2015
    Posts: 1,113

    Mikel50

    Thank you very much. I appreciate it. I've always wanted to learn to work with metal. I'm having fun learning.
    Today I'm finally building the glove box for the fuse panel.
    It's a damn monsoon up here today. Good day for building shit. [​IMG]


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  3. Dino 64
    Joined: Jul 13, 2012
    Posts: 2,533

    Dino 64
    Member
    from Virginia

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  4. Mikel50
    Joined: Mar 30, 2015
    Posts: 1,113

    Mikel50

    Took better part of the afternoon but I got the glove box built and installed into the dash. Used 20ga and mounted it with the original ford screws that came in the dash.
    [​IMG] USPS donated cardboard for the template
    [​IMG][​IMG]stopped at HF yesterday and picked this up. $35 with a coupon. Did the trick
    [​IMG] never used a break before. So much easier for sure. [​IMG]mounted in the dash
    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG] [​IMG] I must have at least 40 hours into the dash. Just need to secure it to the dashrail and A pillars and it's good to skim coat and seal.



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    Last edited: Apr 1, 2017
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  5. Dino 64
    Joined: Jul 13, 2012
    Posts: 2,533

    Dino 64
    Member
    from Virginia

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  6. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 5,256

    sloppy jalopies
    Member

    great timing mike, i have to do just that behind the '40 dash...thanks.
     
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  7. came out nice Mike! skim it up and prime that bad boy.
     
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  8. Mikel50
    Joined: Mar 30, 2015
    Posts: 1,113

    Mikel50

    Thanks guys !
    I was going to google this.
    I bought Metal to Metal filler. Should I skim coat and sand it before or after I seal it with the epoxy sealer ? Or should I seal the dash then fill and seal after sanding ?



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    Last edited: Apr 1, 2017
  9. Mike, I always put filler on clean metal first, sand it smooth, prime and sand, repeat as needed to fill in low spots
     
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  10. Mikel50
    Joined: Mar 30, 2015
    Posts: 1,113

    Mikel50

    Thank you.


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  11. 28TudorAZ
    Joined: Dec 29, 2016
    Posts: 114

    28TudorAZ

    Not sure if you ever got this answered. Here is a pic of my front window. 20170402_134556.jpg
     
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  12. mike bowling
    Joined: Jan 1, 2013
    Posts: 3,559

    mike bowling
    Member

    MITERD CORNERS!
    and the weatherstrip fits into a channel on the sides and bottom of the frame- it moves with the frame, and when you pull the windshield shut, hits the posts and across the little bottom filler piece. That's what gives you a "water tight" seal that leaks like hell if you're driving in the rain ( works great in the garage).You can see it sticking out about 1/4 inch in the above photo of the '28/29 coupe ( the one with the mitered cornered windshield) HaHa

    Dash looks PISSAH by the way!!
     
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  13. Mikel50
    Joined: Mar 30, 2015
    Posts: 1,113

    Mikel50

    Haven't made it this far ...but I know what I have does not belong.
    Thank you for posting. It's on my swapmeet list of stuff I need


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  14. Mikel50
    Joined: Mar 30, 2015
    Posts: 1,113

    Mikel50

    I'm looking for Mitered Corners from what I can remember ...


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  15. Mikel50
    Joined: Mar 30, 2015
    Posts: 1,113

    Mikel50

    Thanks Buddy. Can't wait to check it off the list.




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  16. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 5,256

    sloppy jalopies
    Member

    Are talking weatherstriping for the A w/s frame,
    [do you mean the w/s frame gasket ?] [both sides and bottom].
    if so you must cut it yourself...it comes in a roll...
    for years I buttered the gasket and channel and forced it down the channel...
    buddy asked for help installing a w/s frame in a '32 cab... only then did he tell me to use a 1" wood chisel and gently spread the channel wider before sliding the gasket in...
    I did.... the gasket slid in smoothly... BUT ... don't miter the corners for 24 hours as the rubber will contract back into the channel...don't cut too short...
    I use the leftover glue from the door window felts to glue the sides and bottom gasket tips together [tape off the body and inside of the w/s frame first]...close the w/s let set up...
    I duct taped [1] plastic pad inside my lineman's plyers, used that surface against the outside w/s frame surface and worked my way along the channel squeezing the channel onto the gasket...
    worked well, hands didn't hurt as bad as before...saved the outer w/s surface...
     
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  17. Mikel50
    Joined: Mar 30, 2015
    Posts: 1,113

    Mikel50

  18. 39cdan
    Joined: May 11, 2016
    Posts: 41

    39cdan

    Looks like a good start to your project.
    The frame looks like someone modified a Model A with 35 Ford parts.


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  19. Mikel50
    Joined: Mar 30, 2015
    Posts: 1,113

    Mikel50

    Thank you.
    I put the frame that came with it to the side for now. It was a bit much for me to wrap my head around. I have plans to tidy it up in the future. Still have all the running gear plus motor and trans for a future project.


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  20. Mikel50
    Joined: Mar 30, 2015
    Posts: 1,113

    Mikel50

    Beside me getting the dash skim coated with filler and the first round of sanding a few weeks ago I haven't done much. I have bought my clutch linkage parts and ordered some odds and ends I needed. I'm not pleased with myself, honestly. But it's there waiting and the garage is clean !
    Between Work being crazy (self employed house painter) and my daughters practice schedule after qualifying for a national horse show in Lexington Va this weekend, I get home and I'm beat. Soon as things kinda even out I'll get back on it and post up some updates.
    Hope all the Mass and N England guys enjoy Fitchburg this weekend.
    [emoji41][emoji1360]



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  21. Dino 64
    Joined: Jul 13, 2012
    Posts: 2,533

    Dino 64
    Member
    from Virginia

    Don't get down on yourself, you'll get there.[emoji41][emoji106]


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  22. Mikel50
    Joined: Mar 30, 2015
    Posts: 1,113

    Mikel50

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  23. NashRodMan
    Joined: Jul 8, 2004
    Posts: 1,989

    NashRodMan
    Member

    Nice work on the dash, Mike.
     
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  24. Mikel50
    Joined: Mar 30, 2015
    Posts: 1,113

    Mikel50

  25. NashRodMan
    Joined: Jul 8, 2004
    Posts: 1,989

    NashRodMan
    Member

    Actually, I recently bought a 30 A tudor. Decent body but needs patch panels. Not as nice as yours for sure.
    I need a full set of fenders and aprons so if you know of any let me know. I also need complete interior. I'm thinking of an alternative dash too. Not sure what yet. I have not done any metal work/fab or patch panels either so I'm a noob when it comes to that.
     
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  26. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 5,256

    sloppy jalopies
    Member

    looks mighty nice mike....
    .
    nasher ...IMO only....
    buy good quality patches, think Sny's calls them concours... some hambers here mentioned MIKES panels ?
    they cost more but have the compound curves like the doors / quarters do... it should be less work...
    IMO...only...
    do a simple dash now and go for an "M150" dash during the off season after its on the road, make it the way "you" like it as you will be looking at it everywhere you go...
    can't wait to see pix...
     
  27. NashRodMan
    Joined: Jul 8, 2004
    Posts: 1,989

    NashRodMan
    Member

    SJ,
    Thanks, I already bought the panels from Mikes. Nice quality. And thanks for the dash suggestion. This build will take a while since I have a lot going on now (not car related) and cuz I have the car in my avatar to drive in the meantime.
    Its fenders and aprons that I need now, LOL...but that's a topic for another thread.
    Back on Mike's topic....so Mike, what are you going to do for a gas tank?
    NRM
     
  28. Mikel50
    Joined: Mar 30, 2015
    Posts: 1,113

    Mikel50

    I've got a poly tube style tank that came with the car from tanks.com. I think it's a 6-8 gal. I really like the metal type that fits behind the rear seat though. So I may go that route depending on my final rear seat location and what I have for available space.
    I have Model A aprons that are clean and straight and also a set of front fiberglass fenders I'm not going to use. If you're interested in them.
    Not sure 28/29 differ from 30/31.
    I have a set of rears that a guy gave me that are a little crusty. I can look and see if they're worth your while. It's been a while since I looked at them.
    I'm away until next week but pM me and I'll send over some pics when I return home.


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  29. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 5,256

    sloppy jalopies
    Member

    NASHER ;
    you must use the '28-'29 fender braces, headlight bar, front fenders, splash aprons and rear fenders...
    running boards should be the same...?
    .
    case it helps ; tank hight in inches x width in inches x depth in inches devided by [231] = gallons...
     
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  30. NashRodMan
    Joined: Jul 8, 2004
    Posts: 1,989

    NashRodMan
    Member

    I've read on the HAMB and elsewhere that 28 29 fenders and aprons don't fit the 30-31. Is that not true?
     

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