They are Ford 1.8 CVH. They are a tad too long but that's not a big problem. I was going to go a bit larger but settled on these which are essentially stock size but with 8mm stems so the guides could be oversized Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I had a similar problem and had guide liners fitted, similar properties to cast iron to retain lubrication properties Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Don't think many if any will want to do this. But when I got my 28 Chevy motor id had an external oil pump installed where the distributor normally goes. I didn't like that as I wanted to put the distributor there and the toothpick cam had been undercut when reground to the point I didn't trust it to drive the pump. So I cut a piece of scrap steel I had to bolt on where the generator would go. Then I bought an aluminum angle and drilled it to mount the pump and slotted it so that it would adjust belt tension. I made a small extension for the pump drive shaft.
Then I packed a bearing that somebody gave me about 30 years ago. It was in a Honda box and the pulleys are off of a Gold Wing. So that's cool. I made a bearing retainer and used Loctight gasket eliminator hopefully seal it. I used O rings inside. We'll see. Then I put the pulley on and it's done. I hope. Granted, it's not pretty. But I am trying to use the parts that came with the motor as much as I can.
Rich--you comfortable with using a smooth OD copper on the high pressure side of the pump? Rubber hose might slip under "pressure". And yes--I have had it happen. I was lucky that I caught it in time--and unlucky that it happened. Herb
No. Actually. I would never use the lines that came with this engine. Those were on the pump when I got it. Now that I have the drive done I can proceed with switching everything to JIC/AN fittings and hose.
Just purchased some 4 banger stuff to go along with my '28 4 banger sprint car restoration. 2 Oldsmobile 3 port engines. I am going to build one to replace the stock '28 banger in my sprinter. Now for a direct question. Has anyone here installed a model C counterbalanced crankshaft in a 490 Chev motor? Oldsmobile used the 490 block with the 3 port head in their cars and their trucks 1919-1923. So if someone has actually done this installation I would like to chat with them. I have read many posts regarding such but not seen one from someone here that has actually accomplished the deed. brasscarguy@comcast.net
A question, if I may. What bearing clearance is best? At the moment I have a small mountain of brass shims under the main caps so I need to start over. May try the foil method Andy Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I'm not a huge fan of brass shims. I may just use them to measure then get hold of or make some steel ones. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
So been a bit busy making a few bits The first is a side draft manifold for an SU probably 1 1/8 or 1 1/4" when I trip over one. I made it according to the dimensions of the cast aluminium manifold someone kindly did some drawings for some time ago I made mine from 316 stainless as you can buy the 1 1/2" bends from Fla bay . Not sure that I might not make a smaller one in 1 1/4 as I want to run a single carb . I am more interested in the bottom end pickup and torque then outright power. Next is a mostly complete set of billet followers in 6082 alloy . Not the perfect material I know but thought it would give me a bit of practice. I have got to make a set for my other head and will use the the 7075 for that and make them with a flat top as they do not need the extra strength Still got to sort out the rest of the valve train . 4130 tube for the pushrods is proving more difficult to obtain than anticipated. Several UK suppliers having stopped stocking it as lots of it is made in China and does not do what it says in the tin. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app[/QUOTE]
Mosquito Nice job on the rockers, but I would round the ends after the other machining is finished. You were probably figuring on doing that. I like the stainless manifold also. The fact that tight radius bends are available makes construction a lot easier for things like manifolds. Keep up the good work! Herb
Hi folks. I spotted a -28 ammeter/oilpressgauge from facebook group and got it home. It is fully working but need a bit of cleaning. I have a 1928 truck speedometer, so I gnow that these AC Delco gauges could be a bit problematic to open. Have anybody of you opened this meter and could give me tips how to do it properly? Even better if an "explosion image" would be available.
The biggest issue with disassembling/reassembling the speedo is that the casting is made of potmetal, or "Zamac" and can be warped/blown up/crumbling apart. If yours is warped or broken, check with "The Filling Station" online- they may have reproduction castings.
Nice old Fronty OHC So has anybody considered tacking this set up a-top of our beloved Chevy? The cam is the obvious problem with the centre spacing etc but modern cams have pressed on lobes so there's maybe something in that. buckets and shims, no problem Chain would be best but a belt would be easier maybe., definitely Get some oil up there somehow, Have the plate machined Done What would be the point? I wouldn't need one. Maybe just a pipe dream. Andy
I thought I would show the linkage I came up with for the View attachment 3492145 Holley 1904 carbs on the Winfield intake. There must be some other way to do it. But I couldn't think of it.
Bit of help please with Valves I spent an hour last night looking through the pages of this but failed to find a definitive answer. I want a standard size exhaust valve but with modern keepers and a slightly larger inlet valve . What do you recommend and whose valve springs. Looking in my ebay saved serch's I appear to have saved the following . Did someone reccomend them as the valve? Valve Lock Set of 32 keepers 11/32" - 7 Degree Hardened V8 Chev/Ford PF555HD-32 ( 291523873333 ) Fairly urgent answers please as I have a friend going to the states in a week and he is only there for two weeks. A lot cheaper than getting anything imported with postage! I am also intending getting this oil pump as I think its the right one with a bit of fitting Melling Oil Pump One-Fifty Series Two-Ten Series 3.9 L6 235 NEW M45 Ebay number 301568476589. Herb: is this what you were suggesting? I have a Olds 3 port head and 1928 head but assume the valve situation is the same for both .
Do you need on oversized stem? I had so much slack in my guides I ended up using 8mm which gave me a ton of choice from the AE catalogue. Makes collets easier as well.
This is what I recommend. With no really positive oiling to the top end, the guides are bound to have excessive wear. No point in telling you what valves I used, because they were difficult to get back when I built my last Chevy engine. Take a look at Ford small block valves. I took a look at ones from a Ford engine that I was junking, and set them aside, because I thought that they would be likely candidates. Now as to where I put them------------ I would look particularly at the valves from the early, smaller displacement Furds Wish that I could be more specific--sorry. Herb
Thanks to all. Looking at the guide issue surprisingly there is very little wear on both heads so I think I can get away with 8mm stems Herb can you look at this oil pump and confirm its OK . A you might have guessed I am fine with a bit of machining to get it to fit Melling Oil Pump One-Fifty Series Two-Ten Series 3.9 L6 235 NEW M45 Ebay number 301568476589. Thanks again for the help
Take a look at a late '50's Chevy 6 pump. That is what I used on my pressurized engine, and it will supply more than enough oil for a "splasher" Around here they are pretty common, sometimes used ones are free, if you don't mind a little rebuilding. As I recall, there was hardly any machine work needed. Of course, I'm talking about post '26 engines, the ones with the center distributor. A splash lube engine needs a good volume of oil moving around inside it if it is to be pushed any more than a stock one. For one thing, the oil will help cool the piston heads, and on a C4, fill the pockets that oil the mains. Just don't go wild with the revs. Remember that you have a pretty wimpy crank. Good luck, and please post some pictures. Herb PS I can't find that Melling number, but might be due to the big puddle between us--you are in England, aren't you?
Yep there is a bit of a puddle in the way! If you click your mouse on the red writing in my previous comment it takes you straight to the USA ebay page. It looks like Ford Maverick valves which are the same as Nissan Terano 2 engines may provide a way forward on the valves 2mm shorter overall but since I am making the rockers anyway .... I just have to watch the collets dont hit the vale guides Andy Mccann is proving very helpful with info and some keepers
Did you use exhaust valves for intake and exhaust? The valves in my 28 head measure 1.65" diameter. I am not going to get away with going up from 5/16" valve stems to 8mm without sleeving the guides; this head was really rusty when I got it. So drilling and reaming 11/32" for the .341" SBF stem size looks like a simple solution. I had the head in an Oxalic acid bath for a week or so before all the rust was dissolved. However, it still need plenty of heat plus plenty of "shove" my hydraulic press before the valves would budge from the guides. I shattered the first valve stem when trying to just press the valve out cold. BTW, I was thinking that if I get problems with the retainer hitting the valve guide with the "new" valve setup, I could just machine down the top of the valve guide. I'm measuring them at 2.56" long on the '28 head, a stock SBC head (.341" valve stem again) that I have in the workshop makes do with a 2.2" guide length. Can anyone see why machining them down on the '28 head wouldn't work/would be a bad idea?
I would be concerned using a press that shatters the valve. You could have cracked the head and not know it. Patience is a virtue.
Patience is indeed a virtue. The very rusty head spent more than a week in an Oxalic acid solution to dissolve the rust. When I discovered that the valves wouldn't just tap out with a few blows from a copper mallet, I soaked the head in Kerosene for several days before using the hydraulic press -initially without heat. I put the shattered valve stem down to less than perfect 1920's heat treatment as I wasn't really leaning on the press when the stem let go. However, if heat and the press together hadn't removed the valves, that would only have left spark erosion as an option. There is an EDM company just along the road from my place, but the cost of removing 4 valves would be way more than the value of the cylinder head. I'll be pressure testing both the block and the head before I do any machining.
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