Projects Steering joint question

So far block huggers are the only thing that will fit. I really do not like block huggers, do you guys think I could get one more joint in there with a heim holding the shaft to pull it over to the frame a bit? I don't see it happening. My only guess is to buy expensive header kits and make them myself.

It's a sbc in a studebaker

 

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You don't want to hear this and I surely don't want to say it but if you shorten your steering column it will give you a little more room. if you wan to run the shaft out and support it with a heim it will take a couple more joints. Building a set of headers is your most viable option. @Tim says that speedway has a real affordable kit.

if you built Tri-Ys you could tuck them in tight, it would be like two sets of block huggers then into your secondaries. Look real close at it and think about it a little bit. you want to try and keep your primaries in the 16" range or so I have been told.

Just a thought.

 

i think shortening the column and adding a joint and a heim would be the cheapest easiest way.

 

If you ditch the mustang 2 front for a straight axe you can mount the steering box out of the way

 

I had some interference issues with my 28. I ended up pie cutting the headers at the flange and "folding" them upwards and then re-welded them. They work great. Not sure what sort of exhaust system you plan to use though.

I will track down a pick and see if you can see what I did.

 

The exhaust wasn't completed in the top pic. I extended them and wrapped them.



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Shortening the column I don't think is in the cards

And the 'take out the front end comment' ... I mean come on...

 

Jackalope- I can't really tell where you cut them but wouldn't that make the tubes look a little odd?

I've got some cool headers that were given to me. I'll have to get a pic but I've tried a few sets. Even fenderwell headers don't fit cause my tire is too close to them

 

Couldn't I essentially cut that steering shaft in the middle,install another joint there and put a heim in between it and the joint at the rack?


These are 48 fenderwell headers cut short because they was way too long. But the tire will be way too close. If it hit a bump I think they will hit,there's no front end on so the tire will sink up just a bit more with the weight,(and this is with no collector. If they pulled back just a bit more they'd work but.. can't exactly cut them and weld the center tubes all the way around so I gave this idea up.

 

It maybe over kill to some builders but I would put a Heim joint between the existing joints if it all stays as is. Shortening that column is no biggy ................................

 

If it stays as is what would be the benefit to adding another?

I really don't know how to shorten it. It's a summit racing Chevy style tilt unit.


These headers would work but they are too short I think. They bend back out just a little too soon and would hit the joint at the rack it looks like (corvette side exit style headers) they look like they would come very close to fitting but looks can be deceiving

 

I could be all wet but to me it would feel more "solid" when turning wheel and the box bushing & column lower bearing/bushing will last longer......................

 

Yeah I can see your point there for sure.

Just unsure of what route to go on this. I do have one of those floor brace things for the Column as well.i think shortening this would be a major pain to deal with the lower bearing.sorta leaning more towards building my own headers,such as a weld it yourself block huggers kit and just extending the down tubes a bit more or something. Just can't stand a short block hugger

 

Have you looked up Sanderson Headers? Many years ago I had a set for a SBC in a '57 150.
For some reason I remember them hugging close to the motor with long legs straight down the middle and heading to rear collector. Just a thought.............................

 

I agree. Get your self a shorter column or shorten the one you have now.

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If you don't want to or can't Shorten your column on the bearing end, what about a lakes style header kit, pretty inexpensive either way.


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see how hard it is to pull the lower bearing out. check that the tube is the same dimension where you want to cut it. if it is cut just the outer tube slide the bearing back on then cut the inner shaft to length. post some photos of the lower column.

 

You don't have to cut them and weld all the center tubes all the way around. Grind off all the welds on the inside of the header flange. Then you can tap the flange down to make the header shorter. You can even adjust the angle of needed.

Then weld up inside flange and build it up the sealing area. Then you just need to make all the welding flat.

This is assuming you headers are made with the built up weld area at the sealing area. Perhaps yours are different. Worked really well on a set I modified.

 

The fact that you can't tell was the point and means I achieved my goal.

How I did it and it could work for you, DEPENDING ON YOUR ENTIRE EXHAUST SYTEM, is I basically bolt the headers to the engine, cut a wedge out of the top perimeter of the pipes at the flange and basically pulled the bottom collector out and up until I had the clearance. I then welded the seam at the flange.
If you were running a lake style header or something that exits the engine bay and dumps at the cowl my idea would easily work for you. No question about it.


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There's a few ways to skin this cat.

You could add in more u joints, and create a mid shaft between the 1st and second intermediat shafts that you'll have. The new mid shaft needs 2 support bearings on the frame.
Sounds complicated right- because it is but doable.

Getting a different rack with the shaft further left is an other.

You can modify any one of those headers, there's just another step that includes cutting them loose from the flange. Welding all the way around then putting them back in the flange. Just as if you're building a set.

Building a set is another.

Shortening the column shouldn't be difficult. Check that thing out because there's some off shore crap columns that have plastic parts up top that break and then kill you.


You could shorten it a bunch, get the first joint inside the cabin and come out where things work better.

Hopefully it's got a hood and fenders to cover up the MII stuff and the headers looks won't be that important either. There's always rear dump manifolds

 

look for a set of block hugger headers that the center tubes are inside of the front and back tubes. it moved the collector in about 2"

 

Tb33- yeah I sorta follow ya on that but not sure how it comes apart

Jackalope- wouldn't that cause the tube to look distorted as in it wouldn't be round anymore?

Shawn- I was sorta thinking about the 'tilting them down at the flange idea also.

31vicky-yeah I was thinking about another joint in there with supports but I am.l not sure if even that would give enough room. Rear dump won't work,my column and clutch stuff would hit

 

When I built my 35 (see attached picture), I shortened my steering column and used an additional double u joint with a support bearing. If you shorten the steering column, you can just cut and butt weld the outer housing, but you need to make sure you put an extra sleeve over the inner shaft if you have a splined steering shaft. If you have a DD Shaft, you can just cut it to length.

There is also a lot of good info in this thread:

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...-manifold-update.1053589/page-2#post-11950870

 

If I was doing it I would measure down from where column comes threw firewall 1". Cut the out side column tube there. Now you are looking only at the steering shaft. Cut it off so U-Joint is just below bushing in newly cut outside column. If it's a "DD" shaft all the way up your good to go, if it goes from "DD" to round you will have to marry up the inside "DD" shaft to the round OR get a new U-Joint, one end "DD" the other the size of the round shaft, 5/8"? I looked at your profile and "A" you can do this! You may have to do this AND make headers.................................................

 

What do you want your exhaust to look like? Do you plan to run inside the frame rails or outside the frame rails. I have not seen you indicate this very crucial piece of info. That will help dictate what route you choose to take.
As for deformation of the pipe at the flange, no. Barely any distortion. If you're running a blown 1000hp motor that must be 100% concentric then that's a different story. It worked flawlessly in my case. They originally dumped inside the frame rails. As you can see now, they dump outboard.


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Works for me.

 

One more.
This style joint incorporates a vibration dampening collar.

 

If the new joints are close to the exhaust consider some type of shield attached at the pipe flange if necessary. A must with a closed hood. Good luck.