Technical Extra cooling at the pull of a cable ?

That's because most won't read past word #7

 

It seems like you missed his post too, see #13. Based on the statement he made, the car isn't even built yet, and he's just guessing that he "might" have a problem. Yet he says it should cool OK. . Rather than you looking back to read post #13, here's the statement:

"i have a new alum A radiator, no hoodtop, and SBF so it should cool ok... but while the body is off is the time to prepare for those times you might need it"

 

Thank you E M. , exactly my thought...
EBBS, the rod had been on the road for 17 years, pulled the body off to exchange the channeled and sectioned 10" '33 body [7.5" chopped radiator] for a full hight '30 coupe to ease the back / neck pain getting in or out...[15 surguries]
.
..Felt baseboard was not made to take the vibration... thought of wrapping copper wire around the tubing as heat sinks...
the tubing costs next to nothing as there had been a couple 10 footers down cellar for 30 years,
while the body is off it is easy to set up..
the heat dispersing copper should peel off a little heat sitting still so it should cool the water a few degrees even after the trapped water is released..
going to use a full hight model A radiator, so i may never have use it .. but ?

 

WTH, I'll keep this thread of conjecture and hypothesis going. ;-) My '36, the photo that's my avatar, had a rump-rump 472 Caddy, and I fit the only thing that would fit behind a sectioned '36 grill, which was a '64 Mustang reproduction radiator. Predictably, it was a miserable combination. I made an air dam to force all the air entering the grill to flow through the fins, had a powerful OEM puller fan, no use. I put an aluminum, two (deep) tube aftermarket radiator in and that helped, but finally made the car drivable was the addition of a second small radiator, laid flat over the frame kick up under them floor, plumbed with 1 1/2" copper, and it's own two electric fans. I raised the floor 2" over the kick up (it was a package shelf anyway) to provide somewhere for air to flow, and that work out pretty well. It'd get about 210 at a light on a 90+ degree day, but cooled right down as soon as we moved. I toyed with using heater cores, but the second radiator (an Omni single row core aluminum radiator).

 

Overheating is a pet peeve of mine, and is right up there with terrible steering a brakes that make a car miserable to drive. Frankly, nowadays there is really no excuse for it. If you properly design the cooling system, with the widespread availability of inexpensive aluminum radiators, high flow water pumps, not to mention shrouds and electric fans... there is no reason you shouldn't be able to let a car sit and idle all day in the summer sun without overheating.

 

X2. I need my car to be out there, on any and every road that every other car uses. This could mean hours of bumper-to-bumper traffic, and hard stops to avoid colliding with 6-figure super cars, that have 24-caliper pistons, and an acre of swept braking area.

You can build yesterday's car, but you cannot drive it on yesterday's roads, with yesterday's drivers.

 

Sometimes you can stuff all you can stuff and it still isn't enough.

There's nothing wrong with an auxiliary cooling circuit. Every heater core is essentially the exact same thing. There were cars that had multiple heater cores as well as there are today. Rear mounted radiators are fairly common as well.

Opening the auxiliary circuit up isn't likely to produce any instantaneous temp drop but it will start shedding heat.

 

Easy fix, just drive it from September to May like I do! Shouldn't be a problem in Maine.
Actually this was taken in the middle of May in Hill City in the Black Hills of South Dakota!

 

I had a water system in my '55 F100, but for a different purpose.
An '86 BMW 535 windshield washer tub held 1.5 quarts of w/s washer fluid, same amount of bleach/water, 50% each, was fastened to the inside front of the bed, right side. Electric pump situated on outside of tub, 12 volt radial, powerful BMW Factory pump.
The activating wire was run inside to an I/H starter button below dash, spray hose was plumbed alongside the bed floor and down, to a flattened brass tube "nozzle" that sprayed a wide, fine stream to the leading edge of the right rear tire. Traction device? Not hardly. Get ready...
Switch? Fire in the hole...Well, smoke. Tire smoke. Lots of it. Once you got it going, (2 seconds) let go of the button, stand on the Moon pedal...wow... Uniroyal Laredos let off some tire steam, Jim! Whoooosh! Smokerooney, Yeah!

 

Ain't nothin'. I see the smoke show every time my wife get a 30% off coupon for the mall.

 

Keep a jug of diesel in the inside. And route a hose into the cab from the intake manifold. When you want to make smoke unplug that hose and stick it into the diesel fuel. Doesn't help a overheating engine. But it will make a tailgater ouit tailgating. The smoke will be so thick they cant see and have to stop.