There are several others but most are too modern for me. Some overhead cams aluminum things. The 181 Mercruiser has a few more inches an 8 port head on some. There should be lots of them in boats in your area. Also check forklifts. After I get it going with the 153 I'll start building a '28 Chevy four so I can run in some of the old time race events if I live long enough.
Thought I would add a little about how I mounted the Chevy II engine in my AVATAR. I bolted the transmission to the K member and then adjusted the height of the engine until the center of the crank aligned with the original bracket for the hand crank. I installed the original 153 Chevy II mounts on the engine. I bolted a piece on angle iron on the frame using a couple of original holes and drilling a couple of more holes. I shaped a piece of flat stock to go from the angle iron on the frame to the stock mount. The mount was tack welded in the car and then removed for the final welding. I incorporated the stock mount as I was warned that the amount of flex in the original mount was necessary to absorb the engine vibration (the bangers vibrate more than a V8). I would guess that the Chevy II 4 cylinder mounts might be the same as a six. I chose a mount that supports a generator (I assume an alternator takes a different mount) since that was what I wanted. Charlie Stephens
Charlie The one and only experience I had with these engines was in the early/mid 80's when trying to find a motor mount for my neices' sons 69 Nova 4 cylinder that had a broken mount when purchased. None were available (may be now) and by my memory I used one for the six cylinder engine and made an adapter which worked well. I gotta say, that little car really was pretty peppy after the tuneup and if it had been my car I would have swapped the three speed with a Muncie 4 speed and had a really fun car.
I have a 78 Monza 4 cyl engine (Iron Duke) I am considering putting into my 1926 Chevy. Did you have any clearance problems on the intake side. My engine is not a cross flow head.
I had no clearance problems anywhere, of course the '32 compartment is probably larger than yours. Be sure to reread post 364. Charlie Stephens
Looking for Info & WTB: Chevy II Mallory Mech Tach Drive Distributor? I was told they made several Different models, Clockwise & Counter/Clockwise. Which Part# & Direction do I need for Stock Chevy II 153 C.I. Do I use? Thanks & Regards BigDTexasKid (903) 9532-1933. Anytime Day/Nite Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
There is a new dual side draft intake being made for these engines. http://marshallsince62.com/index.html
Wow and now a nice new side cover! https://www.12bolt.com/store/p162/153_181_Finned_Side_Cover_Mercruiser.html
Anyone ever used a distributor with no vacuum advance on a 153? Sent from my SM-G930V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
You really sacrifice drivability and economy when you delete the vac adv. This is assuming of course that your mechanical adv curve and the vac adv is properly tuned to your combination
Yes, I use them, it is a centrifugal advance distributor. The one you have is from the same odd blue color boat engine that I have. (OMC ?) I tried to use a vacuum advance distributor on the larger Mercruiser (470) and even with spring changes never did get it to work without knocking and I even made a distributor machine of sorts to find out its advance curve. The vacuum advance gives better gas mileage by advancing the timing about another 12 degrees under light load , but I get 24mpg for my 153 with the mechanical distributor set to 32 degrees at 2200 rpm. My 470 got 18 to 20mpg in the same 1800 lb car but it felt like it really had twice the power of the 153. I always use harmonic dampeners, even though the belt drive accessories act to dampen harmonics somewhat with belt slip and stretch.
It's very easy to make a limiter for the vac adv. Just a flat piece of 1/16" or so steel or alum with a hole drilled in it. Use the inner most screw that atttaches the vac can to the dist body. The flat piece of metal goes between the screw and the vertical portion of the rod that goes up through the points plate. File a notch in the flat plate to adjust the amount of travel. Somebody also used to make a nice adjustable limiter for the delco dist. Another issue is the vacuum required to move the rod. There are countless varieties available. Some take very little vac to get full adv. These would cause pinging issues. I used to have the number of one that took about 12" to 14" [ iirc ] of vac to start moving the rod and full was about 18 to 20" . On this can as you applied the throttle to say go up a hill the vacuum in the intake falls and the excess adv comes off the motor and you avoid the pinging. So your vac can needs to match your motor combo. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/CRN-99619-1/ http://www.cranecams.com/uploads/instructions/254g_(1).pdf
What is the "Mercruiser (470)"? Is that the 181 cubic inch/140 HP version of the Chevy II they use? Charlie Stephens
It's a Mercury Marine alum block that has a Chevy bellhousing pattern and that accepts a 385 Ford cyl head. Bespoke crankshaft, cam , etc. They used a stator much like a riding lawnmower engine. These engines gave a lot of headaches when neglected or high time. From what I've read they also have an issue with the water pumps. Never used in anything but boats. With an iron block a lot of the headaches would have most likely been eliminated.
Check out thread https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/the-elusive-224-3-7-mercruiser-banger.256713/
There are design flaws: 1.an open deck engine allows the cylinders upper end to move around so head gasket sealing sealing is difficult at best. 2. the waterpump...looks clever driven off the end of the camshaft (no belt) but is not clever as if the coolant leaks past both seals on the camshaft an fails to drain out its drain hole, antifreeze enters engine oil. very very bad ending for the engine. I seal the hole & belt drive a toyota corolla water pump. 3. they knock as compression ratio was high to begin with and today's fuel is inadequate for that. the iron head did not help knocking. but it is a lightweight engine with great torque and that, I assure you, is addicting.
Putting a 181 mercruser in my A have tail shaft in line with rear end open drive shaft level from side to side I have better than 3/4bubble from front to rear is that close enough? If not will have to cut the center cross member what are your thoughts guys
I have one in my AVATAR. If I understand your problem can you lower or raise your front mounts? FYI a picture of one of my front mounts is attached. Note I am using the original biscuit.
Not sure how to post pic have made doubt mount in front if drop front more the tail shaft will hit cross member
I am not sure what is going on from your words. Do you have a mount at the end of the engine that will cause the transmission to go up when you lower the front mount? I have sent you my email in a conversation so if you have pictures that will help email them to me and I will post them. Charlie Stephens
Thanks for that tip, how did you find it? I have a MAC and it works great. I suppose it doesn't work with PC's. Charlie Stephens
Mine is a MAC too. Since Google sabotaged Picasa this is the only site I post pictures on. Others require an online host. Thanks Brian for making the HAMB user friendly!
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