hey, i've got a question for the gang... i'm looking for a suitable resin or something like it to create this particular idea i have for a steering wheel rim. it's for my Rambler Roadster. i'm running the original '61 steering wheel, it's 18" diameter, i like it. the box is made by Gemmer and has a weird spline, and i actually like the wheel (pic below isn't very flattering). i don't wanna replace it. what i want to do is build up the diameter of the rim from it's currently scrawny 3/4" diameter (with a groove, and typical finger bumps, and the clearance for where the old bowtie style horn ring was) to about 1.25 -- 1.5 inches diameter. i have a plan, man, but need help with some chemistry. my idea for buildup is to grind the finger bumps off, and round out the groove and horn ring clearances in the rim with epoxy and half-round filler to get the diameter consistent, then wrap it with woven fiberglas tape, something like, if not exactly, 1" woven black fiberglas exhaust wrap. with the rim built out to more or less round, the fiberglas fabric tape, edge to edge flat, will bring the diameter up to what i want. the catch is that it needs a binder and coating. the trick is a resin that has sufficient pot time to wind the rim (though i could wet sections as i wrap, and pause for it to kick), but, as critical, when it's cured it is the proper "durometer" and non-sticky/firm surface. traditional Hurst type transmission shifter balls have the right kinda hard gumminess. not sure if fiberglas polyester resin is right. i'm gonna rig up a test for that. can anyone think of a resin, or epoxy, that might work? it's gotta be thin enough to saturate the fabric without bubbles, but cure hard enough. i assume the surface will be AFU from the wrapping work and i'll sand and recoat the outside. i'm very good at fabricating crazy shit from scratch. for this i'd jig the wheel hub up/rim down rigidly to facilitate easy/fast wrapping (and the inevitable drippy mess). anyone done anything like this? sorry, the pic, taken at night, makes everything look warped and bent. it's not.
Years ago there was a thread on here where a guy made a custom banjo wheel. He made a form/mold from MDF and basically cast the rim using fiberglass filler. Turned out really nice. Sorry I don't have a link....maybe a search would find it.
Unless the wrapping fabric is stretchy, you're going to have trouble getting it edge to edge and flat. If you can get past that, is there a long pot time resin or a retarder you could use to get the time to wrap it? Casting the whole thing might be easier. I'm sure there's a resin that'd work. I use Smooth On resins from Eagre Polymers in Chicago for casting parts, they've got some good advice / tech guys, maybe give them a call and see what they recommend for what you're trying to do. Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
epoxy resin bonds WAY better than regular old polyester "fiberglass" resin. Polyester resin barely bonds to itself if repairs or additions must be made after the original monolithic fabrication. That is part of the reason it is recommended for bonding repairs for metal and fiberglass by GM back in 1955. http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/booklets/55smri/index.html
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/how-i-made-a-banjo-wheel.344222/#post-3717028 Here's the thread RMR&C was thinking of.
Replace the outer ring with a larger dia tubing closer to your preference and just do a single layer wrap instead of building up with resin/wrap
^^^^^^^^^THIS!! I seem to recall seeing circular tubing suitable for this for sale somewhere. An internet search should turn something up. Ray
yeah... inside vs. outside radii is the "obvious" problem. i've seen wheels wrapped with cord, that partially deals with the difference. this might just be a stupid project (but i suppose they all are to some degree or they wouldn't be worth bothering with). i hadn't even considered casting, but i'll follow all the links here and check out different approaches. nor had i considered that there might be premade tube hoops for this task... i don't want a small diameter wheel. i like 18", it suits the cockpit. 16" might be tolerable, but they all look like some TV version of "sporty". maybe i should bring calipers to the Pomona swap meet and look at other-brand wheels to see if i can adapt something else. i don't mind work, but some tasks turn into make-work all too easily.
(funny how good technique never ages out...) reminds me that i've been thinking of this wrong -- coarse, open-weave glass and epoxy resin should work fine and solve two problems at once -- the radii problem and pot life. that open weave stuff stretches, more or less, in that it shifts and distorts especially in narrow cuts. that will solve the radii problem. relatively short strips will sole the pot-life problem in that i can do many small batches (annoying, but straightforward). i guess i'd been assuming that with something decent looking to begin with, eg. the exhaust wrap type stuff, with it's nicely bound edges, that a clear hard resin over that would be a good final finish. glass and epoxy would be rough and need finishing, but BFD, i can do that and epoxy paint it. that's a lot for that, it got me to rethink some unquestioned assumptions.
holey karap, that's amazing fab work. i'm not sure that EASY button had much to do with it... lovely wheel, sweet process. a bit above my pay grade i'm afraid. i wish!
lol. it's a shiny-side-down car. it gets driven hard and long. just had the ancient Nashcan six built, custom forged pistons, the guy managed to get some overlap out of a cam regrind (no cam blanks for this motor, even 50 yrs ago), crankshaft spark, straight and balanced bottom end, and Modern Drivelines close ratio T5 and narrowed/regeared mustang rear. disks all around, my own rear suspension design, 2250 lbs curb weight. made for rally and long distance. even does dirt roads.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/cutting down my banjo wheel.1015792/ this was the link to i think what you need....my computer won't let me cut and paste the address....hope it helps
there was a thread on the hamb about 12 months or more ago and it was called ..."cutting down my banjo wheel"... i'm pretty sure that is the info you seek
There was a post on here (and I'll be damned if I can find it again) where a guy built or rebuilt a wheel using Corian or some similar synthetic countertop material. He got two pieces of material, used a router to form the two halves, then glued them over the wheel rim using the special matching epoxy. The wheel rim was OEM-type 1/2" steel rod. The method was very similar to the above 'banjo' thread, but no casting was involved. His turned out looking great.... I plan to try this to rebuild my OEM Desoto wheel.
Yep, that's the one.... here's the complete link: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/cutting-down-my-banjo-wheel.1015792/
I would think looking for a wheel the right size and condition, then mating it to your spokes. Then you just have to make the joints look good. I'm lazy though.. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
POR15 makes an epoxy just for stearing wheel buildup! Flatheadward Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
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