HF bead roller reinforcement?

O.K. I did check the tech dept. first but couldn't find any info. Just picked up a bead roller at Harbor Freight (they're 99.00 right now) and I recall threads about reinforcing with gussets to keep it from flexing. Where should I weld 'em and how many? Got any pics of yours? Thanks all. -stick

 

http://www.metalshapers.org/101/bead-roller-mods/

 

Very Good. Now will someone please show us how a Fence is designed? I want straight beads!

 

That Metalshapers method seems to go the long way around the block.

Someone on here posted a pic of the one they did and I thought it looked simple and nice.

They built a "C" shape out of some tubing (maybe 2"x2") with tabs welded to it. Then they simply drilled some holes into the body of the bead roller and bolted it to the big "C" structure.

BTW, I've used mine for a while without any sort of support. It does flex. but unless you are building something that needs to be perfect, I wouldn't think it matters that much.

The steering wheel modification is a MUST however. That is what I would (and did do) first.

Hope this info helps.

 

hi guys,
heres a pic of my hf beadroller beefed with 2x2. i was going to put a steering wheel on it but just bought a gearmotor and controller to power it instead. i would recommend highly to beef it up.

gary

 

i did mine similar to that, only i used 1 1/2 angle iron, with the open part of the angle to the plate of the bear roller. i tried it once without the reinforcement, i don't know how anybody could use it like that, now you can do beads in one or two passes.

also did the steering wheel, i was a little concerned that the wheel was smaller than the hand crank and i wouldn't be able to get enough leverage, but found it was no problem, with the wheel you can kind of lean your arm on the wheel and get a nice smooth action with little effort.

i also polished the HF rolls in the lathe, they were pretty rough, i didn't want that roughness transferred into the workpiece.

 

Hey,

The 2X2 steel channel isn't a bad way to go, unless you have some
extra steel plate layin around, than I'd go with that. Replace the
chicken shit allen screws, on the rollers themselves, before they
strip out. Also, replace those square headed shaft pressure bolts
with threded stock bent at a ninty, so you can set the pressure
on the fly, without having to reach for an end wrench.
For a guide,I have always just vise-gripped a piece of angle (although
I bought the factory guide) to the frame, and set the depth as neces-
sary.

Swankey Devils C.C.

 

Here are some picks of my bead roller. It has much less flex than it did before... but could be better. It can do 18ga steel full depth in one pass. Reinforcement is 2x2x.250" angle






the stripes help make it stiffer too

 

Thanks fellas now I get it. 52 Pickup, the stripes are a nice touch. -stick

 

I have yet to reinforce mine but when I did use it the depth of the beads or flanges would change. It seems that the shafts are to small for the dies.
Am I crazy or does anyone else have the same problem.

 

52pickup, you should have something connecting the angle iron parts at the crank end of the roller, it will make a ton of difference! also, nothing wrong with the way you did it, but angle iron will be stronger there if it formed a closed triangle to the plate, not with one flat to the plate.

 

Anyone have any pictures of stands for the above, or other reinforcement ideas??

 

yea i know , and i was thinking that when i did it. I probably will one of these days... but will probably wait untill i setup an electric drive for it.

 

Here is how I did it... works good so far. Need to mount it and add paint...

BTW: Does anyone have a good way to make a tipping die without a lathe?

 

i have posted this before.. my workcenter.. the yellow portion is the bead roller, and it of course is a hf unit.. its welded in position.. the "gussets" are 1x1 square stock.. nothing fancy.. strictly utilitarian.. no power.. YET..



the entire machine weights around 700 lbs..

 

http://allshops.org/cgi-bin/community/communityalbums.cgi?action=openalbum&albumid=9980104562330

near the bottom are a few ideas for the tipping dies. hope this helps

 

One of the biggest things after the reinf. , drill & retap all the chink butter set screws with American Allen set screws. Reinforced right it'll roll beads in 16ga steel single pass.

 

52... Thanks for the link. I have been thinking a larger washer would do the trick and the pics prove it. Thanks

 

Here's a couple I took of mine. I put a gearmotor I bought off of ebay on it. 20 gauge is about all I run through it.

 

I have set mine up similar to 52pickup, only I have the flange of the 2"x1/4" angle the other way (in other words closer to the jaws of the throat of the machine). One thing I was wary of was welding the angle to the frame, so I used 5 3/8" bolts along the top and the bottom. Also tied the top and bottom angles together at the drive end with another piece of the angle, and a piece of heavy wall square tube, that I hope to be able to put a mounting plate on for a geared motor.
Don't have a camera, so can't post any pics.
Michael

 

Here's mine, it feels sturdy. Haven't tried it, really...
I put in on a piece of pipe with a single wheel at the bottom and hinged it on the table that has my mill on it. That way I can swing it outtatheway when not in use.

Pics on my website:
http://www.hotrods.nl/werkplaats/Desktop.html

 

heres one our own 60's Style did, i guess thats why hes the tech editor
i saved for when i get my own bead roller, its simple and looks sturdy
check it out
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=100759

 

well, I guess it looks like I won't need to do a tech article on how I did mine then...looks like everyone's pretty much got it together...good pics guys...I'll post pics of mine if I ever get another digital camera

 

I got the same thing, but notice the dies dont spin evenly...like up and down, creating a poor uneven bead...I think its the stupid set screw holding them down.

Anyone have this issue?

 

What is a tipping die for?

 

for "tipping" a flange, for example on an curved part where a sheetmetal brake won't work.

 

Yeah Norm, it sounds like the set screws are fuckin ya over. Replace with
''real'' steel ones.

Swankey Devils C.C.

 

Anybody got "in process" pictures of how tipping works?

 

Just FYI, I've been seeing a bunch of free treadmills on craigslist these past couple days. The motors and controllers from those would be perfect to motorize one of these...

 

surplus tread mills?
all those people musta got skinny and don't need em any more!


as for bead rollers on the HAMB
NealinCA has it hands down

saved in the Tech Archives, here's the link
Another HF Bead Roller Stand...