Thank you. No I havent been there but Im sort of familiar with the area. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Today was a humid miserable day. Heat index of 103 here in coastal Texas and about 10 degrees hotter in my shop but I managed to finally finish the '32 crossmember and get it installed in the frame. Also hung the rear end to get my measurement to cut the torque tube before I ran out of energy. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Damn .. that center crossmember is neat! Keep at it! Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Thanks Matt. We have a few dimensions we need to tweak a little, but thinking about maybe making some DIY kits for people to build that wont be nearly as expensive as an already assembled crossmember. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
So Ive read that Lincoln front backing plates can be used with a '36 wide five drum. Does anyone know if this is true? The early ford store sells them complete with brakes but I dont want to spend the money if they arent going to work.. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
I didn't read word for word what you have, but you're gonna want '35 - '36 spindles and bearings to go with the '36 drums you have. Then, to adapt hydraulic brakes, you either slot the holes in Ford hydraulic backing plates to fit your spindles, or you can go a little fancier and weld the holes up, weld up a retaining ring that reduces the diameter of the backing plate to match the diameter of your spindle, then you re-drill the backing plates to match the spindles. OR... you can buy repro Lincoln backing plates that have the '35 - '36 spindle bolt pattern. I think either option will work, but it all depends on what spindles you have. If you have different spindles, I would be looking to ditch the drums you have for something different.
Thanks for the info. Yep, I have '36 spindles. Where can I buy the backing plates for the 35-36 spindle? Early ford store sells a kit but looks like they are for 37 and up spindles. I dont mind doing the extra work to make the later bolt pattern work, but I also dont mind going the easy route either Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I think there are a few others out there, but... http://www.bolingbrothers.com/front-brake-kit-for-1935-1936-spindles/ https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=70289 You might contact Bob Wilson to see if his will work. http://www.wilsonweldingandmachine.com Sent from my iPad using H.A.M.B.
That ford barn post conflicts what I said about using the drums, so I would trust them as I haven't done it. I would have to have the parts in front of me to confirm. Sent from my iPad using H.A.M.B.
My wishbones were too wide where they mount to the torque tube so a couple cuts in each got me to where I needed to be. I then painted and reassembled everything and got it back in the frame. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
My dad caught me "driving my car in Wildwood" again... Im just happy things are taking shape now. Most likely wont make it to Bayou roundup or the moonshine run this year but possibly by the 2018 LSRU??? Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Man you're rocking and rolling, great job, you're roadster is looking awesome. I need to finish my roadster. Sent from my SM-N920P using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Thanks! Your car is sweet. There arent many '27s Ive seen that are done "right" in my eyes and yours is spot on ! Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Thanks @Texas36 yours will blow the doors off of mine for sure, keep up the great work, I love seeing all the progress. Sent from my SM-N920P using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Thanks dude! Im just trying to keep up with you and everyone else right now.. I still need to make the trip one day to see your roadster, its pure inspiration ! Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
It would be a great shakedown run and also a perfect photo opportunity! Im down Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Now onto steering. In order to get the F1 box to fit in the 'A' frame, I cut off the bottom tang and drilled a new mounting hole. Im moving the box a little farther back from stock location for header clearance so machining the box and using a model a flange (tardel style) isnt needed. Column needs to be shortened about 4 inches but will work for now. The pitman arm will also need to be bent for clearance. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Will probably need to lean the box back a bit as the angle is too much. The wheel will hit the windshield if I shorten the column. Easy fix Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
This was the hardest part for me, header and steering box clearance. Great job so far. Sent from my SM-N920P using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Thanks. Yeah Im learning that as I go. I had to unbolt the engine and raise it up a couple inches just to get the stupid thing in! Lol Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I like where this build is going. The trans mount is a great idea, good job on it man, this thing will be badass! Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Thanks dude! Ive been following your build, its looking great! I recently followed you on Instagram. I recognized your car.. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Went ahead and fixed my steering column angle now to just shorten it 3". So I can already tell this is the part where things will get challenging. Im using '32 ford truck pedals but the pedals are waaay too long. has anyone else ran into this problem before? Will sectioning the arm mess up the geometry? Im having trouble visualizing how these pedals even worked on a stock truck as the arms are basically hitting the engine block . Edit: thinking about it further Im realizing that the pedal box needs to be moved further over and the arms bent a considerable amount. None the less the arms will still be too long. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
The Jalopy Journal
