Termites and Bowties- Early Chevy Group

a few pictures of jag rears give you the idea
mike

 

some more jag rear pictures, snow white chassis did the chrome and paint ones. If money is a problem, don't ask.

My roadster has : half shafts, lower control arms, calipers and all other mounting arms powder coated a titanium stainless look. Power wash, no more chrome cleaning, been there , done that.

 

Oh boy! I think I better just bite the bullet and spend the 4 grand on the ford nine, I don't have enough experience do all that... here's a few more pics of my project


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

JOE you have a great quality coupe to start with !!!!!

No need to go nuts with a vette or a jag rear or even 9" ford. Nothing wrong with an early nova rear if its a 12 bolt for extra strength with posi unit. Hook it up to the stock leaf springs, just remove some as 9 leafs makes for rough ride . Might want to look into disc brakes for the rear or stay with drums with dual chamber power booster under the floor. I think I have a brand new pedal assembly still in the box that is for the 35 standard frame with x member.
Changed direction and am going to tremec 6 speed stick instead of 700R4 on the roadster build.

My coupe ran a 55--62 chev rear end 3.36 gears with that killer 422" olds, 4 speed olds hydromatic running mid 12's on street tires at 118 mph. The olds was in there until 96 the chev rear end got changed to jaguar in 1975 .

Just find a rear at scrap yard or online or even the for sale on this site, that has the 56--57" width to fit wheels and tires inside the fenders. S10 series trucks you should have a look at what they made width wise.

Just ask people their opinions of what they are running for rear end on this site , FOR 1933--1935 CHEV , this section , hopefully others reading will CHIRP IN. Whole ideas of having these boards is to help each other out.

mike lynch

 

My '35 Std Sedan has a late 70's 'vette rear in it. Stock width, with a couple springs removed. It was done about 1986, so long ago I don't recall all the details. I think he narrowed the stock x-member to hang it from and added brackets from that to the frt of the carrier. The trailing arms were the biggest prob. I believe he cut and angled them to fit just to the outside of the boxed frame side rails near the end of the running boards. I still have the car, I posted a few pics of it a while back. (page 27, post #800)

 

I would be happy to buy that peddle stuff from you, if your wanting to sell it ? 1975[emoji15]I was fresh out of my mothers womb when you went to jaguar [emoji23]. I thank you for the knowledge


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Thank you for the info, since I'm trying to build this car myself, keeping it as simple as possible,[emoji851]I can weld (But) I might put it in upside down HA HA


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Count me in, I'm rodding a 1931 Chevy half ton. Will post some photos. Need a frame first!


Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.

 

It was actually a pretty simple install. Measure, measure, measure..cut...weld. It got the car really low too. If you need one of them rears, I just took one out of my '32 four letter word coupe. It's just taking up space in my garage. Cheap.

 

Joe............I am keeping my setup. BUT just going thru ebay typed in ' 1935 Chevrolet brake pedal booster " and a few of them showed up for a lot less than I can sell mine to you. Wow prices have come down.

You need to figure out now whether you want to run drum brakes in rear or discs.
Whether you want to run a power booster or not. ????
Because different corvette master cylinders are used. disc disc, .....disc drum. ..power boosted or non power.
You will also need the correct factory COMBINATION VALVE for the above set ups.
Get one with the pre-made steel lines from master to combination valve.
Also you will need residual check valves when the master is under the floor...2 pound for disc and 10 pound for drums.
You will also need a firewall mounted dual master cylinder** reservoir** to have the lines run to the master cylinder.

NOTE.......when using the pedal / master / booster kits for 1935 Chevrolet because the 35 frame is an X member design and the kit puts the booster right over top of the drivers side front running board mounting bracket. Solutions............move the booster/ master farther back with an extension and make a new rod to go in the booster.
Other solution is to make a modified run board bracket with a U shape under the booster.

The running board mounting brackets especially the fronts are an integral part of the strength of the frame. Stock those brackets attach too the transmission mount . Cannot remember the name of the company that makes an automatic transmission cross member for the 35 frame that takes a 350 or 400 auto.

mike lynch

 

Wow! Great info... thank you! I will need too get or make a transmission mount for my 400. So I'll have to figure that out , probably go with drums in the back for now. And power booster..


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

eBay shows an under dash universal booster, would that work?


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

I am looking at a 33 master 5 window coupe and it is missing the front fenders and running boards. Are they hard to find? Are the glass fenders from speedway OK? Are the fender braces available aftermarket. I would prefer original stuff, but can except repro.
Thanks

 

Very hard to find steel...I've been looking for right side running board for my 35 , (I'm still looking )...mike would know the best glass one to go with [emoji106]


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Joe, on your doors. Notice the 3/16" rod running diagonally across the door. What this is for is to adjust the bottom of the door INWARDS so it lines up with the outside sheet metal quarter panels . Its a problem most model a fords have hanging out.

The seat adjuster setup with the WHITE METAL GEARS............be extremely carefully with these almost impossible to find. The seat will move around 6" by pulling up on the lever allowing seat to go FWD or RWD. If your tall, you can move the seat assembly bracketry rearward and also those little metal THINGS screwed to the floor, seat track underneath rides on them. To get more room front to back, cut down the shelf behind the seat........mine is at 5 1/2" wide.

If you mount the battery in the trunk and use welding cable as a battery source, that allows you to take a LASANGA baking tin about 4-6" deep and mount it in the battery hole.......why???? so you can run your wiring into the ron francis fuse control unit. Lift seat if wiring problem and there it is all there and easy to see, no twisting yourself like a pretzel to see under the dash.......smartest move I ever made.


mike

 

don't even think about that KUGEL underdash unit...........how are you going to get brake fluid into it?????????

mike

 

[emoji15] ok..


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

steel original 1934-1935 Chevrolet running boards are out there. None have showed up on ebay in last 9 months or so. I have pairs of steel running boards L & R in various conditions. Not sure if I have a single right side. Check tomorrow pouring rain right now.

Pair of steel 33-35 repo running boards on ebay now

mike

 

Awesome!!! And I have the seat too


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

You sure know a lot about this car , and very nice to take the time to help , thanks !!


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

DUKE.........because they made a lot of the 1933 masters series CA, steel originals are out there. But be prepared to anti up $$$$$$$ for good ones. The running boards are 1933 chev master only. Repo running board rubber is supplied by IANDIREPRODUCTION in california.. Or maybe the filling station on wash/oregon. Might have to get from USA and that hurts.
I had a 34-35 std right front super mint shipped to Ontario from Oregon.......cost me $600 for fender amd $650m I think for Reimer transport

The front fender mounting irons are 1933 master only. You have to haunt ebay USA DAILY to find stuff. In last 2 weeks there was a 33 master New Old Stock fender ended up at $900.

Oh and should I also tell you, YOU NEED A USA SHIPPING ADDRESS, because a lot of USA sellers will not ship out of country !!!!!!!!! I have a friend in Brockport NY who accepts packages FOR ME from ebay purchases. Right now he is sitting on 25 packages for me. I go down to him every 4 months and bring it back.
Keep your ebay receipts for the border guys and do not screw around........pay the 13% duty . Lie to them or not have the proof you may get a fine for as much as you paid and lose all the parts .

I stay away from anybody shipping by UPS to Canada..........you will get fee's to death.

mike lynch..........

 

I have had my coupe since 1970 and been thru every inch of it 3 times until I have it exactly the way I want it.

Next up is a partial redo of the 35 phaeton along with the continuing build of my 35 roadster

some much stuff , so little time

mike

 

duke...........here is a link to the website of a company that makes quality fiberglass for your 33 master

http://www.superiorglassworks.com/1933-Chevy-Master-Fiberglass-s/1821.htm

The internet is your friend..........just google for it and use right words

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...let+.TRS1&_nkw=1933+chevrolet+parts&_sacat=0r

pair of repo steel running boards......NICE !!!!

stuff is not cheap but they have a good reputation for quality. Smoothie running boards look good. You can glue the stock repo running board rubber to them without having to make a pair metal backing plates to glue rubber to for stock
HAPPINESS IS CLOSING YOUR DOOR BESIDE A FORD AND NOT HAVING IT GO CLANK THUNK

mike lynch

 

Uh oh! I have other question ! I'm going to need a bigger radiator right? I have the original one .


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Thanks for the info! I have the US address covered and have shipped lots from the US. I have been playing with early fords for a long time. This Chevy found me, and I keep thinking about it. Can 34 fenders be made to work?

 

I think Superior had a fire. Is the speedway stuff any good?

 

Get a walker radiator out of Tenn............the best. The original one will not take the pressure generated by that buick.
Also run one of those aluminum frame mounted extruded trans cooler about 20--24" long going to the radiator internal trans cooler .
Cooling the motor, use a steel 6 blade steel fan from " vintage air in texas" draws air like crazy and never fails like electric ones.
http://www.vintageair.com/2014catalog/Pages from 2014 VintageAir Cat rev 8-15 90.pdf

these really work , come in 17.25 tip to tip and 18.25. get your motor mounted as far back as you can to firewall. I think you have 30 1/2" firewall too radiator. With motor in place measure from water pump center to the front cross member to see which fan will clear cross member.

Yes you will need a much thicker radiator.......3" ?? damn raining outside where coupe is sitting.

mike lynch

 

NO NO NO, 33 chev master fenders mount flat onto the frame, 34-35 are arched and mount differently. I cannot say about the speedway ones, all you can do is see if there are REVIEWS by purchasers on speedway site.

The beauty of the 1933 chev master is :: the front gravel shield the transistion year to 34 year change, the peak line into the front of the front fender........ the hood with the 3 doors in it. All these make for a very particular car styling, one I have long admired.

Parts in sheet metal are out there, and should be many in BC and Alberta area worth using. Watch ebay plus KIJIJI. It takes time to find early chevy stuff, you have to REALLY WORK TO FIND IT. you need to be part or the BC street rod association ???

 

[emoji37]dry it quick, never know what's in that rain water anymore


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

I got my new steel running boards from a company in North Carolina last year for my 35 Standard sedan