Hot Rods The Arin Cee Roadster

When I started this thread I was building Arin's roadster in a little cement block shop behind my house, most of the work happening outside because the inside was packed full with just enough room to slide the car in at night. I've always built my stuff this way. It's certainly authentic old school with lots of noteworthy hot rods having been built under the same conditions...or worse.



But while still making slow progress on Arin's car - with him chewing on my**** to hurry up at every opportunity - I've also been busy moving and, in the process, building my dream shop. It's a little different, crafted from old steel shipping containers, but it's just exactly what I'd hoped it would be. Kevin Taff of Alvarado, Texas, did all the grunt work from building the steel framework on which it sits, welding the three containers together, cutting out the walls, installing overhead beams and even fitting it with lots of 220, perimeter outlets, overhead lights and heavy duty shelving. Thanks, Kevin. It's perfect!

 

Definitely more room than you had before, and better lighting.

 

Tie them*****ers down (careful not to trip over those things) @missysdad1...thats a great alternative to your typical garage...

 

Most of the tie-down loops have been removed, but I've left some to use for frame repairs. My own coupester needs its frame straightened and I have another friend whose Model A coupe was in an accident and needs extensive pulling of both the body and chassis to get it straight again. There's no substitute for floor anchors when doing frame work. There are also anchors along the base of the walls.



There's also matching rows of loops on the ceiling. We used some of 'em to hang the lights and left the rest for pulling bodies, engines, etc. using a block and tackle or ratchet straps. There is also a large I-beam at the 20-foot mark (visible in this photo but not in the previous photo) which can be fitted with a trolly to pull really heavy stuff. These containers are remarkably versatile.

 

Another bonus...you gotta be pretty darn happy with that arrangement...they make houses out of those things.

 

Baby got new shoes...and a sorely needed tie rod modification and front end alignment. The wheels are real-deal '48 Mercury 15-inch steelies powder coated by Top Koat Powder Coating in Kennedale, Texas. They are actually for the 'banger roadster build, but will do just fine on Arin's roadster until I can afford the 16-inch bias ply Firestones I really want. The drag link should be here in a day or so, as will the steering column drop. One step at a time...

 

Good news...and bad news today. The good news is that the Speedway custom-length drag link arrived this afternoon and fit perfectly. I used a Speedway reamer to reverse the taper in the pitman arm to move the tie rod end from the outside to the inside so that the drag link wouldn't tangle with the radius rod. The bad news is that when I went to adjust the steering box I discovered that it was flat worn out...

 

"I've also been busy moving and, in the process, building my dream shop. It's a little different, crafted from old steel shipping containers, but it's just exactly what I'd hoped it would be. Kevin Taff of Alvarado, Texas, did all the grunt work from building the steel framework on which it sits, welding the three containers together, cutting out the walls, installing overhead beams and even fitting it with lots of 220, perimeter outlets, overhead lights and heavy duty shelving. Thanks, Kevin. It's perfect!"

There's more than one way to do these, & this one looks like it's been done Right.

This would make a real good how-to article, maybe for the-now-non-existant-tech-thread. Hint/Hint... .
Marcus...

 

I think this is a great idea, but not for the HAMB. I've probably already talked about it too much and am grateful to the moderators for letting me get away with it to the extent that I have.

 

Eric... Please mention where you find rebuild parts for that F100 steering box.
(I have one to do, an interesting side note: I have a Dodge Dart box I'm converting to cowl steering, box is actually a make with GM innards, three companies I've called say 'No sale on steering box parts, for liability'.
I'm a retired BMW master, for Crissake!)
There was a source for F100 stuff, but their worm gears were $100+, and other parts unavailable. Hope that's changed.

 

I would, but I have another F100 steering box that seems to be in much better condition that I'm prepping to use in place of the worn-out one. The flange ears need to be ground a bit to allow the steering shaft to rotate downward to lower the steering wheel, but that's about all this one will need...I think.

For rebuilding, LMC Truck seems to have pretty much everything needed. Good luck!
http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/fa/full.aspx?Page=41

 

Hey, Eric;
If you do post info somewhere, please PM me, so's I can follow. I still think it'd be worth your while.
TIA.
Marcus...

Hye, Mike;
Have you tried LARS in Cambridge MN? Don't know iffen they sell idividual parts, or kits, they do do full-on rebuilds. Unfortunately, Little Dearborn closed shop here in MN recently. Next step would be wading thru Hemmings. Good luck.
Marcus...

 

Man, what a good idea. I'd never even considered shipping containers for building a garage, but may have to consider that for the next garage when I move. Has to be a hell of a lot cheaper than what my 15' x 24' garage cost me.
I know you're hesitant to post more pictures, but I don't think you're really off track. There are plenty of garage related threads on here. Maybe make an album with pictures of the build to satisfy our curiosity?
Personally, if you did find a reason to post one more picture, I'd love to see the frame that they sit on... And pilings in the ground, or just the frame sitting on the ground?

Do I see shackles with an eye for attaching the tube shocks to? Because if so, that's a killer touch and one really overlooked.

 

Yes, the chassis was originally set up for friction shocks in the front using Pete & Jake's shackles with holes for the links. The holes could be used for tube shock mounts but the shocks would end up being very high visually. I'll be running tube shocks but prefer them mounted low so these shackles will be replaced with standard ones. I also plan to use F1 upper shock mounts cut to fit the low-mounted shocks. Overall aesthetics and proportion are very important to this build because there will be no "bling" to draw the eye.

 

I couldn't agree more......

 

I addressed this issue earlier in the thread. Guess you missed it...

 

I see you are using a 32 dash panel, mine from 1955 used a 40 Ford dash in it. I just dug out my 29 roadster after a 47 year hibernation. I crashed the front and started to change the frame out and along came wife and then children. Frank

 

Yes, the further I get into this build the less "trick" I want it to be. As I consider each step I ask myself, "How would a teenager have done this in 1948?" I considered using a '39 Ford dash at one point but decided that would probably be beyond the capability of many boys at that time. Admittedly, a '32 dash might not have been that much simpler to install but at least it will LOOK less difficult when the car is finished. Plans call for no instrument cluster, just an array of S-W gauges in holes drilled in the dash.

BTW: If it's only the frame horns that are damaged on your roadster I have the tie-downs to straighten them if you want to try doing it yourself with my help, but don't have a porta-power...yet. I have to straighten one of the rails on my "cabriolet-ster" so I'm all set up to do this kind of stuff.

 

Thanks for the offer, I did heavy collision repair mosof my life. Back then it was easier to just get another frame. I took it apart and there it sat in pieces for all these years. Frank

 

Not hijacking the OP's thread but how about starting your own thread on the "digging out" and repair of a genuine 55 roadster which has eluded all the street rodders. I, for one would love to see it.

 

You can PM Frank to make your suggestion. I'm sure others would be interested in a new thread about his old hot rod - I certainly am - but is not relevant to this thread. Thanks!

Great photos and great car but I resent the***** out of you using my thread to promote the sale of your buddy's car. Please delete it.

 

The film clips reminded me of my "buddy's" car. I thought it was about hot rods not your ego. I have met a lot of great people on this site. I will just leave it at that! I did delete the post . Have a nice uptight life!

 

Thank you. If you'd put it that way instead of pimping out your buddy's car I probably would have reacted differently.

 

So I am confused how this fits in with 1948 ??? SBC, Radial tires, alternator, late model tie rod ends, modern red plug wires, aftermarket axle-perchpins, king pins.... this is just the stuff that catches my eye.

You might want to read some Don Montgomery books, grafting in dashes was not beyond the capability of many post war boys.

 

As I suggested to you once before, you might want to go back and actually read this thread, not just look at the pictures. Then perhaps you will understand my goals with this build. You may not agree with them, but at least you will know what they are.

Your suggestion that I get and read Don Montgomery's books is excellent! I have them all - several given to me by Don himself many years ago - and all are threadbare from having been read so many times. They are an excellent source of early hot rod information and I cannot recommend them more highly. Thanks for mentioning Don (rockerhead here on the HAMB) and his books!

 

Another eventful day...

Got the new F100 steering box in. This one seems to be a really good one, tight smooth with no apparent difficulties. I rotated it down a little more to lower the steering column in the car a bit more. This shaft is also about three inches shorter than the previous one for no apparent reason. I may not have to shorten it.

The windshield parts arrived from Brookville, so I mocked the 2" chopped stanchions into place and stood back for a good look to see if the proportions are right. I like it, but it might look different with the frame in place. So far, so good.

The big step, however, was bringing the old 'banger hot rod roadster into the shop and began the teardown in anticipation of the body swap. Brookville makes a really nice body but I know I'm going to be happier with genuine Henry steel.

More tomorrow...

 

Got quite a bit more done on the 'banger hot rod today so the body is just about ready to come off, to be replaced by the Brookville body that's currently on Arin's roadster. This whole body swap process has set Arin's project back a bit, but it'll result in a much better car when I'm finished.

The 'banger roadster is really a pretty nice car, with '40 Ford juice brakes and a dropped axle. I got rid of the fenders and running boards so it's now a fenderless highboy. It still needs a few repairs, but once the new Brookville body has been installed and the repairs made it'll go up for sale and make somebody a great hot rod!

Not many pictures today, too busy...

 

Oooops! I guess I forgot to mention in this thread that a few months ago I bought a sadly neglected "barn find" former hot rod '29 roadster indirectly from an estate sale. This is the "'banger roadster" I've referred to in the previous few posts.

I initially bought the car for the nearly rust-free body to be exchanged with the Brookville Roadster body on the Arin Cee Roadster and then sold. But before tearing it apart I did a search to discover the car's history, a trail which went cold at the 1975 Street Rod Nationals in Memphis, Tennessee. So, with no recorded history beyond the estate from which it was purchased, my conscience is clear to use it for parts to complete Arin's roadster. Hopefully this clears up the mystery.

 

Okay, back to Arin's roadster for a moment...
I mocked up three different windshield heights this morning. Which one do YOU like best...?
Option #1

Option #2

Option #3


Okay, ready, set...VOTE!

 

Option #2