Painted my car with rustoleum

One of my employees painted a tool body for a truck with Rustoleum (red color) and it faded badly. It could have been due to the gasoline he used as a thinner, I don't know.

 

Sprayed my T Roadster with Rustoleum/Tremclad.
I like it and will use it again.

 

any follow ups?

pros-cons

anyone used TS majic oil base paint with their clear?

BTW

 

rattlecan semi-flat. $50. Touch ups from constant speed crazy wrenching.... priceless. I got the look I was after.

 

So if you are going to spray a tractor with rustoleum, what is the best reducer and how do you get to shine?Bruce.

 

Bruce, acetone for "quick" reducer, mineral spirits for "slow" with valspar enamel hardener. I prefer valspar tractor enamel to rustoleum.

6 parts paint, 2 parts acetone, 1/4 part hardener, I just give the hardener a little dump.

You can use real enamel reducer and hardener with it. I had some old Hawthorne medium reducer, budget stuff, shot and dried well.

Ive shot this mix a lot, mostly on heavy equipment type stuff. Lays down nice. I wpuldnt hesitate to use this on frames, suspension, underbody etc. After all the prep work, ill stick with automotive paint on exterior panels.

 

Not THAT car in your avatar, I hope.

 

I'am with the pro rustoleum paint camp, some projects will not be worth the cost of a real paint job when completed. It will protect the car better than nothing, and look better in the process. I would like to enjoy several different cars, and I wont be able to afford real paint on all of the them anyway. Anyone can afford a real paint $50,000 car on a $250,000 salary, speaking for myself don't knock a $5000 car from a $50,000 salary.

 

I used Rustoleum gloss black in 1960,got good look for me,an have just kept on using it each time I painted my hotrod,I still drive. I do use enamel hardner as others have said. Preprep is a lot of getting a good look an I always give it a full week or more before buffing out. At shows most don't beleve me,if they ask what I paint it with! Fact is my rod only takes a qt. + thinner & hardner,. I'm aware its not as hard as two part big $ paints,but I'm a low $ guy,so maybe put more time into making it smooth before the gloss goes on then some do. Frankly I think even if you blow big $$$$ on paint,it still will not look good if it was not smooth before the shiny was sprayed on.

 

Wow! Just about the exact color I have in mind for my tudor. Looks great!

 

Thanks for the information.Bruce.

 

NICE!!!!Bruce.

 

No for my old Farm all Tractor. Bruce.

 

Nice job on the paint. The money you saved on paint, you should be able to spend more money on cool stuff. Nice job.

 

Oh my aching ass !!! Don't use rustoleum, use rustoleum , don't use base coat, use basecoat. Why did you use that steering wheel, Why did you use those tail lights??It doesn't matter what you choose to use or do its your hot rod and no matter what you do your gonna find somebody who doesn't like it. Who gives a rats ass what that other guy thinks.
If it makes YOU happy....go for it.
By the way I dig some of these low buck paint jobs.

 

.....

.......you forgot to mention the floor mop....

 

I think that's because he didn't use one.
You know: use rustoleum, don't use rustoleum, use base coat, don't use base coat.....

Yes, I saw your other comment.

 

One reason inexpensive paint (aka: Rustoleum) is cheap is because it's made by the tanker car full in some basic colors. It's the economy of scale. It doesn't necessarily mean the paint is sub-standard. Now if you want to match a very particular but little used color, you're going to pay more for the privilege of having it blended by the eyedropperful and the little cans and the rest of the black magic used in the making. Sometimes it's pre-made and stored in a warehouse in a different county. That costs somebody something when multiplied by a thousand colors.

 

Another rustoleum job. A custom mix of flat brown and flat black. Couldn’t be happier and spent $32 on paint and acetone.

 

I did my old Jeepster in Rustoleum a good 10 years ago. You can see right behind the door, where the top protected a strip that didn't fade.

Ymmv

Full Kustom drunk mobile posting

 

Lol I am with you. I don't see why paying thousands for a paint job then stressing about driving it or stone chips. Had a neighbor who got tense every time he backed his car out of the garage. I didn't see any joy on his face. Pointless. He ended up selling it and bought a Vette. Drove it wether raining or dry.

 

40StudeDude X2. On something a little more high dollar no paint is better then bad paint as it has to be removed before you do the job the right way.

Gary

 

Goes back to:
1.How much to you want to spend
2.How long do you want the paint job to last. Maybe spraying with acetone fades quicker than brushing or rolling. By the way, the early cars all got brushed -Pierce Arrow and Rolls, spray guns didn't come along until later -
3.Where will the car be parked (inside/covered, outside)
4.How much time do you want to spend on it, look at Dana's car -very nice looking result.
There's a mile long thread on Moparts, and if you want to try something different -roll on instead of spray, like the tip/roll they do on boats. you can use Topside boat paint which has some UV additives. Or, SS -look at this guy's Off topic Jag he used Kirker urethane enamel: (as nice as the factory)
https://web.archive.org/web/20170726010002/http://rolledon.forummotion.com:80/t1281-1998-jaguar-xj8-vanden-plas

 

This is quite an old thread, I went thru all 8 pages and didn't see anything about mixing a color other than buying several cans of different colors and mixing.
I want to do a maroon paint job, can a guy buy a can of red and have your local hardware store mix it with there tints.

 

rusty, just buy red and black. mix black into red until you have joy.

 

I’m going to use Tekaloid to brush paint the body of my 27. I painted the chassis with it today


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I've painted hundreds of gallons of alkyd enamel painting heavy equipment over a ten year period. On the smaller projects I'd use my automotive guns and it was fun to see just how nice a finish you could put down.
The thing I started using on the last few projects was industrial urathane, it was cheap at 125 per gallon and sprayed like automobile paint, it would buff. Butt the thing I liked was you could mix it so it was DRY by the time you had your gun kleen! It worked great in the shop so painting frames at home would be no problem and dust free in no time.

 

Interesting advice - thanks for the heads up.


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our local shop sells base line single stage for 100 per gallon, same deal, only afew color options but it can have a higher end paint job done over it, thats worth the extra 50 bucks to me. i wonder with the fading on those rustoleum jobs if they were maintained? cut/polish? i have seen cheap jobs last a lomg time and look great well maintained and ive seen great jobs fall to hell without maintenance. the good job survives no maintenance longer i suppose. to me a guy who preps well, applies paint well, FINISHES his paint job well can achieve as good or better resukts than a guy who is middle of the road with sweet 2500 paint in a shiney can

 

I'm going to use TCP Global/Custom shop satin black on mine. Qt kit is like $50 plus the thinner. I thought about tractor paint but could only find Matte black. I'm done with worrying about where to park and finding a new rock chip every time you wash it. I just want a good driver, nothing fancy.