Technical What to know about 1926 Chrysler 4 banger ?

I just bout a 1926 Chrysler 4 cylinder engine and transmission. It was rebuilt about 5 years ago but never started. I am planning on taking the head and oil pan off to take a look before attempting to start it. Are there any weak points I should take a look at specifically? Can anyone explain how the oil pump is supposed to work on this engine?

Thanks in advance

 

Is it the same as the '29 Chrysler engine which was shared with Plymouth? Those i have fooled with.

 

I hope so. I am really hoping to be able to try the y block head at some point.

 

If it is like my Plymouth, the oil pump ran off the cam. It was centered in the block. The oil went across the block to the pressure regulator and out to the mains and cam bearings. I never used the original oil pump. I hung an external pump on the side. But then I did use the OEM pressure regulator and oil passages. Worked all right for me. Post some pictures of it and I should be able to tell if it's pretty much the same as my PA and PB Plymouths. If you go with the Y blcok head, feel free to ask anything that I might know.

 

There was one with a Y block head in speedways museum. If you can use a yblock head the a 302 head could work if you could figure out oiling.

 

The man who built that engine made the post above you.

 

Cool head swaps always fascinate me

 

I'll have to go there and check it out. One good thing about the Y block head is the valve sequence is correct for the Plymouth cam. If you go to a 302 type head you would need a billet cam. Getting oil to the top is something you have to deal with either way. There are 2 head bolts relocated in the 302 head from the Y block. But either head needs these two holes relocated anyway. The other 8 holes just need a little "fudging" If you like head swaps, you should check out the MoPar LA head on a '26 Dodge block thread.

 

I took some pictures of the engine after I got it unloaded. What did you use for your rotating assembly Rich?

 

Thats a cool looking little engine.

 

Be very careful around the distributor and those pot-metal parts! They are delicate. Otherwise, those engines ROCK.

 

Funny you should mention that, the previous owner replicated most of the pot metal parts in steel.

 

I used the stock crank and Crower rods. I used small jurnol (2 inch) SBC rod bearings and Crower rods the correct length to accept flat top 265 SBC pistons and pins. On the 32, PB engine I used Allis Chambers main bearings. I used a Pinto (Bosh) distributor. Mostly the same as air cooled VW engines. Pasts everywhere.

 

Thanks for the reply. After putting pictures of your engines and the 26 side by side I don't think they are the same block. However the bore and stroke are listed as being the same so maybe the head bolts are still in the same place.

 

I have one of those. As mentioned be careful with the distributor housing it'll crumble. Someone told me there was someone in Australia making new distributors for those engines.

 

If my shaky memory doesn't deceive me, that was a continuation of the Maxwell 4 cylinder after Chrysler took over Maxwell-Chalmers. How long they made that engine, I can't say, but they made a 4 cylinder Chrysler or Plymouth up to 1932.

The Chrysler six was the hot number in their lineup. In stock sedan form the 4 cylinder was good for 50 - 55 MPH.

Even so, Chrysler had some good engineering back then. That engine might make a good light weight speedster if you can find a suitable chassis.

 

Looks about right. I didn't use the 5 head bolts on the starter side, as the Y block head didn't cover them. I just plugged those holes.

 

So--- what's the plan for that little mill?

After I finish messing with this GMC I'm planning on checking out the 26 Olds my Dad gave me. Hopefully it won't need much cause I have a feeling parts aren't on every street corner for them.

 

I am in the process of building a speedster based on a contental engine and a handful of star parts. I figure if this engine is really as close to running as the PO says then I should be able to use it for the speedster. Might finish six months sooner.

 

Luckily I am building one.

www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/continental-star-speedster-build.1012877/page-2

 

The 32 engine was the best because of the really ugly counterweights bolted to the crank. And the modern steel backed flash Babbitt main bearings. Easy to find new bearings for it. Otherwise, I expect you will do the same as I did. Lay the head on the block and see what needs work. Then do it.

 

'25 Olds head on 28 Chevy block

 

Rich
Did you ever fine out what Allis Chalmers tractor bearings you used?

 

looking in the bearing catalogue I would say Federal Mogul main set 523M Which is for the 116 and 125 cid L4. Remember,this was 20 years ago. But I think that is right. If I remember correctly, I had to use two sets because of the long bearings in the Plymouth.

 

Thanks Rich

 

Those bearings will only work with the PB block.If you are using the earlier block you would need bearing spacers with a 2.421-2.422 bore.Maybe you could make them out of the bronze backings for the poured bearings

 

Got a '32 block and crank.

 

Rich
did you replace the fiber cam gear? If so who cut you a metal one?

 

The guy who cut the Plymouth gear has long since retired. Dan McEachern Cut the gear for my Dodge. dmcgears@yahoo.com. Not cheap or fast, But very nicely made.

 

Always wondered why these don't get no luv?