Vintage Tach Collectors Show and Tell

I have info on the right one to go from 4 to 8, but not from 8 to 6.

 

Yep! Thanx for the link.

http://technoversions.com/TachMatchTM02RevAInstructionManual.pdf

 

Post your findings and how easy or hard it was to make it work please.
Thanks

 

I found that while researching methods of hooking up vintage tachs to inline 6's and having them read correctly. That company sells a box for that application as well as 12 volt to 6 volt and negative to positive ground. Obviously they appear understand our traditional instrumentational fascination...al.

 

please let us know how it works

 

Stewart Warner large diameter Weidenhoff tach. Works clockwise or counter clockwise with dual dial.

 

I tried a search before posting about this tachometer which I am hoping to find out some info about. If I missed existing posts, please forgive my error.

I have an older tachometer marked, "Offy Products." It is a deep, tubular shape. Can anyone shed any light on this obscure old tach? Thanks in advance.

 

Hello from British Columbia,
Picked up this 8K Tachometer yesterday and want to share it with you guys.
It's Atomic Bullet cone shaped with visor.... likely 50s ?
Only 2.5 inches in diameter (1.75 inches clock glass), 3 inches long and fairly heavy.
Precision Enginered in Japan.
5 wires - black, yellow, blue and 2x red
I have No idea where this came off or what kind of motor this could be used for

 

Mine
A DIXCO 6V 6 Cylinder

 

I'd say it's later than that by a bit. Early 70's is my guess.

 

Here is the TRW tach from post 380, now out of the box and installed in the 62 Nova. Works great! The 3 on the tree required the under dash mounting.

 

Thank You for your input @Old-Soul
I've spent hours searching online and found plenty of Sun, Airguide, SW etc. Tach Meters, but can't find anything like this one...
Do you think this unit came standard in a vehicle, or was it sold as an aftermarket gadget ?

 

Might be for a Boat. Gary

 

TachMatch looks like a great product and way cheaper then shipping tach and sender to an instrument shop like Williamsons.

Gary

 

Yes, it sure could be from an old boat..! There are some 8k marine tachometers out there, but the majority are 5, 6, 7000 RPM.

 

Pulled it apart and repainted needles...made a mount and tried it on my 40 column in my 34 coupe...I like it!

 

Just picked this up on my trip to SoCal
Going in my coupe!



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A few of my Tachs


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Can't tell from your pic, but it looks as if the tach cud be an FZ-88n. That'll be marked on the back of the tach head about in the center. If it is, that model is full electronic and doesn't need the xmtr box. The connections are marked on the back as well, i.e., ignition switch, distributor, ground, and, if the light socket is in it, there shud be a lead coming out of it.

 

This is the back of the tach. Looks like it's different than what you were saying so it will need the box?



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It is different, but similar. The FZ-88n doesn't have the blue data plate and the connecter strip is at the bottom and not at the top like yours. It also has a hole for a light socket at the top about where yours sez "GRD." Your tach is a model RF-5 for which I'm not very familiar. Nonetheless, an assessment of what is and what isn't on the tach cud give us some clues. For instance your blue data plate makes no mention of what xmtr box to use with the tach and it has an adjustment knob on the back to steady the meter. That tells me that a xmtr box is not needed as the screw on the top of the xmtr box is used to steady the meter. The RC models, which are the more common Sun tachs from this time period for automotive use, have a red, rectangular data plate that is affixed between the two poles on the outside edge and says which type xmtr box to use, EB or WB, and what the tach model number is, i.e., RC50, RC60, RC70, etc. The numbers after the RC designator signify the maximum rpm reading on the tach with 50 being 5K, etc. Note also that your tach and xmtr box do not match in any case. Your tach is for a 6 cyl and the EB-9A box is for an 8 cyl. That probably doesn't matter, either, as the original type batteries for the box are very hard to obtain. Some folks try to use a typical 1.5v battery, but they don't register correctly and the batteries wear out quickly which makes changing them regularly a pain in the patoot. The best course when using a tach that needs the box is to send them to an electronic shop that will change them to solid state electronics. That way the box can be mounted and look the way they were used back in the day. Another thing I noticed about your tach is that the needle is not visible. Did you test it to make sure the needle moves freely and returns to the same starting point? I'm hopeful someone on here is more familiar with the RF-5 and can provide more info.

 

Here's the Sun tach I have in my 57 Ford. I had this tach in a car back in the sixties.

 

Here are some of my Smiths tachos

 

Anyone recommend someone to do a rebuild/update on my sun tach? I emailed the two well known online companies tachman and williamson's and neither one bothered to reply. I don't want a full restoration I just want to update the electronics etc.



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My partner and I have had 3 pre-production prototype 6 volt positive ground to 12 volt negative ground tachometer drivers out on field test for several months now. They seem to work well with no problems. We are setting up to make 10 more production prototypes in the next month. We plan on selling these to test the market. I expect them to be priced at $100, which is pretty close to our production cost. These units allow any common 12 volt negative ground tachometers to be run on vehicles with a 6 volt positive ground system. We have driven everything from $10 swap meet tachs to high bucks Autometer's with memory and replay. If anyone is interested in one of these, please PM me.

"Fitnessguy" - After doing the 6 volt positive ground to 12 volt negative ground deal, my partner says that what you want to do should not be a problem, given that your actual tachometer itself has no major problems. If you're interested, get in touch with me and I'll talk to him about doing this. It should be under $200 depending on what we find.

 

Hey Tubman, thanks for the reply. I tried the 9 volt battery test and the unit did not move so thinking it needs the full internal rebuild, that's why i tried to contact the two companies with no response. Never understood companies that can't be bothered to reply to a customer! anyways, you are saying that you guys can do the same sort of internal update/restoration to make the unit operate with today's ignition? I will likely be running a pertronix ign.

 

One of mine. 60's Jones. Got it from a fella who took it out of an ex-drag tri five he was restoring.
Model 5101-213.

For sale if anyone is interested.

 

Here's one of mine, it's still in the car -a cable driven Smiths Tacho.

The rest of the dashboard is in a similar style.