Projects The bucket of ugly! A de-uglifying thread...

Sounds like it should hold. I must have missed your post about it.

 

Must have been some other thread I posted it or maybe Facebook.

Well here it is.

Gary

 

Close. 7.10-15 on 5.5 rim in front and spot on on my rearcombo.
For me the tirecombo is just as importand as the rest of the parts.
Its when every part on a build have a natural place on the rod they tend to be a great build.
I have some very missmatched parts on my build to get it streetlegal here.
Hopefully i can hide the worst parts so they not going to be to notisable.

 

Same thing here. In Pennsylvania we have some laws that prohibit me from running the exhaust I'd like and some lighting issues but there are always things you need to work around. Good looking coupe there!

 

I agree.

Bad decisions make good stories.

 

Pretty perfect 23 bucket to my eye. Is it just me or is some of that written in code.
Chip probably knows of it's origins.
Gary

 

My treats came today. A breather for the rear end, stainless spindle stops and some .50" clamps to hold the battery cable and other wiring. The clamps are me thinking ahead, so I don't have to attempt drilling holes with the engine and body in place

I'll mount every thing tonight.

 

This one is in swedish and give some tips what it takes to win at Hotrod show 1969 here in sweden.
And special seems to be the key.
Special klädsel-Special upholstery
Special ratt- Special steeringwheel
spec.växelspak-special floorshifter
Glasfiberkaross-Fiberglass body
Trimnings och customtillbehör för motorn. - Show and go items for the engine.
Maskeringar och mässingskylare. - Brass radiator.
Spec.framaxel - Special frontaxle
spec.framfälgar - Special front rims
Avgassystemet preparerat med värmebeständig färg. - Exhaust painted in heat resistant color.
Slicks - Slicks
Special fälgar - Special rims
Special bakhjul (tex Caddy) - Special rearwheels ( Cadillac is sugested here.)
I guess you know what metalflake and candy is.

 

Thanks Anders but I don't agree with all was said. Steel body, Probably Buick wheels with Ford centers.

I guess their heart was in the right place though.

Gary

 

Took a nap and knocked out the stops and breather.

At first, I thought that was dust in the pic, but it turns out to be camera related. Might be time to upgrade.




The rear end had a 2"x 1/4" fitting with a flared end coming from the housing. I decided to keep it and attached the breather to a section of tubing. Secured with clamps.

 

Its problaby a US build thats where used as a example.
Slicks and no fenders indikate that.
Offcourse it could be a build just for show.
I would not be suprised if the body is in steel.
At least it have hinges for the door.
1969 was the last year to get a hotrods streetlegal.
In 1970 we where forbidden to build hotrods and that last to 1982.
If i remember things right it was just 3 T-buckets that was streetlegal during the 70:s.
And it was more and less impossible to get a 30:s car legal with a ohv V8.

 

So.... it was hell. Yea..... sounds like hell.

 

From a car show 1966. This car got crashed bad.

Another one from 66. Im not sure if this one got streetlegal.



Two buckets from a meet in 72.


This pic is taken in 72.

All pics from this site. http://www.spoca.se/bildmuseet_40.php
Click on vägg 1 to 15 to see the rest of the pics if you are intressed.

 

Some pretty good looking T buckets Anders. Although I not sure what body is on the top one.

Hope they let you license them now.

The NHRA and NSRA has done a lot of lobbying of Government here to keep it possible.

 

The 70:s and 80:s was a really bad time to have cars and motorcycels as a hobby here.
Pretty much the same as the German, Danmark and French still have it.
It was free for the cops, techinspectors, common citizens and goverment to harass us as much as they wanted.
And then it was hard to find some decent car. Most of those few that where sold here where rusted up 4dr sedans.
And to import cars from US where very expensive. Often up to tripple what it cost to buy and
shipp here in taxes and fees.
Its hard to belive how it was when looking what the carhobby has become here today.
But the benefit of the bad times was that we organized us to fight the goverment.
And those organisations have still full job to do.
Today is the european union and enviroment organizations that try to stop us.
But the first real step to what we have today where in 82 when we for the first time
since 69 could build cars and motorcycels again.

 

I was reading another thread on the HAMB and it mentioned the M/C push rod possibly being the cause of a members brake problems. So, I thought I'd check mine. (any reason to play with my car.) My push rod was right up against the M/C piston. Hmm..? Attention peaked. So, this lead to a Google search on the topic. My findings were that there should be about 1/16" to 1/8" space between the push rod and the M/C piston. So, I adjusted accordingly. Felt good about that.

Then, while I was there, I pushed on my pedal arm and the motion seemed "spongy". HUH!? What gives? My brakes were solid, when I finished bleeding them a while back. So, I pull out my bleed kit and went to work. I'll be damned! The front passenger side (disc) had some bubbles and so did the passenger side drum! So, I bled the whole system again and now it's way better than before. Like maybe 1.5" to 2" of travel in the brake arm (at the top of the arms arc), then firm.

So, here's my questions. Is it possible that:
1. My original bleeding wasn't as good as I thought it was?
Or...
2. Somehow air is getting into my system?

I checked all my connections and they are dry.

 

Most likely not as good as you were hoping. As for your push rod clearance, what do you have for peddle stop. Mine will be the floor boards. Oh and I vote for ribbed trims, as a bonus you can also use the ribs to ad an accent color. JW

 

The stop is built into the M/C bracket.



I really wasn't looking for a vote on the rings, I was just pondering the possibilities, but I'm going for the smooth ones.

 

Ok, I read it on another thread. I take it your pedal comes up through the floor. JW

 

Finding out that WV trim rings don't fit my 16x4.5" front wheels made the decision to run no trim rings easy.

 

Yea. M/C is under the floor.

 

That's my concern as well. I used the same style rings on my Vintiques and they fit very well. The outer rim of my Cragars look the same, but I won't know about the fit, until I get the rings. Another thing I have to consider is, once they're mounted there's no turning back, because they scratch the hell out of powder coat going on. Needless to say, I'll be treading lightly when I go for it.

It would be easy for me to go without them, because that was the original plan anyway.

 

I'm thinking I'm going to like the clean look with just caps.

And like you said my powder coat will stay intact.

 

Not what I meant, anyway with the trim rings, you can just tape them on (carefully) and stand back and have think about it before you commit........... no rush. JW

 

So, here's my questions. Is it possible that:
1. My original bleeding wasn't as good as I thought it was?
Or...
2. Somehow air is getting into my system?

I'd hazard that there were tiny bubbles of air in the system that after a while all collected in the high spots and you then bled out. This is really common on some cars/systems.
If you have filled a clear container with a liquid, you will see bubbles form along the walls. If you agitate it, some will break loose and rise, but others will hold firm for a while.
I've seen some people even tap calipers while bleeding to knock the bubbles loose and allow bleeding the air out. Going back and rebleeding after a day or two is not reasonable in shop environments, but simple for the average rodder in their own garage.
To make sure air isn't entering, you can bleed again in a few more days and check how much comes out the bleeders.

One other thing to check on the MC pushrod is that it CAN'T drop out of the back of the MC when the pedal is fully retracted. Many a drag racer has experienced the rush that comes from this happening during a run and having no pedal at the high end. It looks like your pedal stop should handle this, but check to make sure!
When YOU build it, you gotta check everything...

 

I want them, I'm just going to check carefully before I put them on. Once I have them against the wheel, I'll know if they'll work or not.

 

Thanks, Rod. I hadn't considered that.

 

Was at a swap/ show yesterday and there were a few Buckets. this one I liked a lot except for the Fugly air cleaner and the way too low rear tires but for an NZ Bucket it a goodie. Marc yours is our #1 in my opinion. JW

 

And there was this with a surf theme including board. Was a bit busy but unique. JW

 

Fred, It looks like you are going with the chrome cover. What swayed you from the Aluminum one with bearing cap preload bolts?
Either way is YOUR choice, just curious.
Have you decided on a steering box? The roller pics look like it has a mount for a reversed Corvair box. I hope one of these isn't in the plans!!!


I see Speedway sells returns at a mark down, saving money - example
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Garag...orvair-Parallel-Steering-Gear-Box,309131.html

I see a few listings for 'quicker ratio' 20-1 boxes too. What are your thoughts on this? Was your previous one 'quick' enough?
I doubt your narrow front tire width would cause issues with less mechanical leverage of the quicker box.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BLACK-Ford-...ash=item58f7213682:g:jeUAAOSwZVlXtzVD&vxp=mtr

I've admired many T buckets and even ridden in a very fast one, but never been behind the wheel, so your (and other owners') experience on this will help those of us dreaming/planning our own.