I'll finish weld inside the frame for the clutch pivot mount when I pull everything apart. Very hard to get to while things are this way. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Sold a bunch of my possessions lately and have been workin my butt off to buy a car trailer ... so I've been working on that rebuilding all the halfass work the previous owner did. New jack, chain/strap basket (made from a small dump trailer mesh gate/dumpster find) rewiring the entire trailer from tip to tail. New paint, reflector tape and all new lights blah blah. Wanted to have a trailer in the event I found "my next project" at the VT Auction this past Saturday. I was good though. Only came home with a compressor. [emoji1360] Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Beside some Hammer and Dolly work on the body, filling holes in the welds on the chop and tightening up the body on the sub rails, that's about it. Staying motivated and busy in the garage ... hoping someday I'll have a hotrod. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
like the guide headlights... the bezels get dented, but Harley Davidson used those same bezels from '49 to '59 or '59 to '69... they sell replacement bezels through V TWIN...
Thank you Mike ! Why do I feel like home is a really long ways away ? Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Past week or so I spent a small amount of time on the car. Yesterday I decided today I wanted to get something done with the roof So I picked up a rough sawn piece of 2"X6" Oak from my neighbor who reclaims old beams from homes. I took a piece of poplar 1 X 6 stock and made up a template from my drivers side roof. It's the "good" side. The pass side was pretty out of shape and I wanted to get them so they were similar. Pass side I transferred my template over to the pass side secured it with screws and worked the roof panels with a mallet. It actually worked. Here the Rough sawn Oak from my neighbor. I have already transferred my template and cut what I needed. I had the roof bows but did not have any other pieces. So I took my templates and cut two runners from front to back for the bows to sit into. (Still have to recess the areas) I also created a piece for the rear of the roof to tie it together across the back. I used two pieces of oak and man it took a while. But again it will be worth it. It's just rough cut on a table saw. But you can see what I'm trying to achieve This pic shows the additional filler I glued and screwed to the other 2" rear wood. This piece took forever. So many curves in every direction and on all sides. Still need to sand it and drill the holes for mounting. But it's progress. It's nice to see the car tightening up with every step. It's been a wobbly mess until now. Supervisor showed up today ... Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Hey Mike, Good progress ya got going there. Just need a palm sander with 60 grit paper to smooth it all out. Question; is the wood gonna sit flush with the roof when done? I guess that may be a dumb question but I see in the 3rd to last picture that the cross pieces are on top. Maybe I'm just getting ahead of you. Paul
Thanks Paul, Yes the roof bows will sit in the side rails. Just didn't get that far yesterday. I need a dato blade for my table saw. To make my life easy. (If there is such a thing) Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Hey ,you got a Union card to do that woodworking? HaHa Good job; make sure wood goes under the metal edge for nailing. My '30/31 Sedan had a metal bar that went side to side too , probably for extra support, not sure about the '28/29's. What are you doing to finish the roof? Metal, or material of some sort? ( Juliano's has top kits that used to be really reasonable and came with good install info.) Best pic of mine was during a 3" haircut! Anytime you think you're not making progress, go back to page one of your thread...............
Thanks Mike, my union card must have got lost in the mail they said ...however I'm not sure I've earned it. There is a metal bow under the wood bows where the interior light mounts too. Which I believe a piece of wood also fits into (it's a channel) I planned on making that piece later today. Which also appears to hold up the roof sides, at the point the above the door panel and the rear quarter meet. I see in the pic of your roof there is a gusset on the rear corners. I think I'm going to add some to strengthen things up. I had thought of it previously but seeing them in your picture solidifies that plan. Thank you My car came with a vinyl roof material and foam pad with tacks and minus the chicken wire. I tell myself every time I'm in the garage "I'm making more progress than the guy not working on his car." Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
mike, the tudor steel cross channel is upside down [shaped like a u not an n]... what I did was drill [5] 1/8" holes going through both sides, evenly spaced across the channel, this lets me add a rib in front or in back of it later if needed [once the insert is in drilling holes will be tough]... also let me punch the holes to put the dome lite where I want it... HIH...
Ya it pretty much only bolts in one way. appears the wood sits into the channel. That is how I have it mounted. It's not in the pics because I needed access to the holes directly above where it's located at the B pillar. I'm sure I'm not going to be exact how it was done from Ford but I'll get it so I'm happy with it and it does the job. I'm building a puzzle with no pieces Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
memory says it did not have a rib inside it but it's been 27 years since I messed with a '29 tudor... it may sit slightly lower in the car than the ribs...
Comparing my last picture and mikes "little off the top" his metal rib is the 3rd bow back from front. It is just underneath the roof wood. Mine is not. So I guess that is my homework tonight. [emoji137]♂️thanks ! Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
It appears after looking at my car. If I put the body wood above the door to the back of the car to tack the top into. That rail may screw into that wood. It makes sense now why there is the void/relief in the metal flange where he roof wood sits at the B pillar. I'll start to template those pieces tomorrow. Thanks for the help guys. Mush appreciated Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
I'm sure that isn't how Henry did it ...next is the windshield header and the body wood. did not cut a relief for the 4th bow in the event the metal brace is to be there. I think I added one too many. I'll have 8. Oh well Thanks for the help and the kind words ...in my previous life (Motocross) there is a saying "Heart beats talent every day!" That's kinda what I'm going on. I want to build the best car I can. I'm learning as I go and I certainly don't want to buy my car out of a catalog Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Haha Also: Ray, thank you. I appreciate the kind words. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Hi Mikel, I went out and looked at my 28 Tudor. There is wood on the top of the brace. I have the header and two bows, then the brace. The brace sits into a dado in the side body wood.
Okay. That's perfect. Aaron, Thank you so much for looking into that for me. (Just noticed the pictures) even better !! I had a feeling there was a piece in the channel. I can use the furthest forward bow I placed in the rails. I have a feeling the header will be super close to that bow. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Been trying to move forward with the body wood the last few days. It's not as simple as I had hoped it would be. But I should know better by now Since temporarily screwing the wood into the body my doors have aligned to damn near perfection. (Must be doing something right) or it's just dumb luck. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
The Jalopy Journal
