With a stout motor and flowmasters you probably won't be able to hear a sterio at all. Love the punched pattern, very slick. Is that a new bottom tool holder on the Lennox?
OJ, the lower tool holder in this photo is the original to the machine... The dies and "stripper" foot on the punching operation were all fabricated for this job..
Well last night found us carpenterin.... using some 3/4 MDF and some construction adhesive... The amp will get mounted on the access cover.
Robert, that looks like the plan. I think I'd still spray some sound deadener on the inside of the flat metal panel with the speaker grill to prevent any resonance vibration.
Steve, thanks for the input. The plan at this point is to finish the corner for the passenger side, weld corners to the center sheet metal wrap, and paint this separate from the framework. Then, during assembly I'm contemplating a strip of body side molding adhesive on the frame uprights and then install the sheet metal to those, thinking it would help isolate the sheet metal from the frame for less vibration possibilities...
Got the drivers corner for the rear seat back tig welded in place and flange folded. Now for the passenger side. On a side note, officially gave Photobucket the boot as my subscription expired last Friday. Robert isn't paying their extortion fees. Surprised the pictures are still showing...
Still haven't set up the new photo hosting, so todays update via youtube. Got the passenger corner all formed up and Tig welded in place for the rear seat back enclosure..
You don't need no stinking photo host Just look at the bottom of your post and hit the upload a file button find your photo/photos and put it or them directly on the HAMB.
Looks good Robert! Thanks for showing all the steps and progress. The seat and enclosure looks 'simple' as you show it here. I find it incredible to see the amount of time and skill it takes to develop and idea to this point of completion! Keep it up and thanks for sharing
Great work Robert! I have a concern that I want to make you aware of. I have been rear-ended in my truck that had a subwoofer box behind the seat. As my body compressed the seat spring during the crash the top edge of the subwoofer did not compress and it hurt my back. Could a vertical strip of metal be added to the top seat support to take the sharp edge of the wood subwoofer away, something that will spread the impact force out and not focused on the fine line of the top of the box. Anyway I hope this helps for what its worth. Greg
Greg, we have some 5/16 bolts going through the box into some riv-nuts in the floor subframe. Hope those will hold. Well I think I have google images figured out now, so lets try an update on the wagon. With the back seat rear enclosure and it's frame both sprayed in epoxy, time to assemble the two together. I didn't want to use hardware/rivets on the skin as I thought it would stay flatter under the upholstery without. Also, with the amp and bass speaker inside the enclosure, we needed something to limit vibration of the adjacent pieces. Our choice is to use some body molding adhesive tape to join the two together. The tape is applied to the frame, and then the skin attached on top of that.. Next, we need to work on our console and the shifter inside of it. We have the console that came with the 2002 Monte Carlo interior, but it has far too much plastic that it didn't belong. In looking at other options, we decided on the horse shoe shifter used on the Chevelle. In conducting a test fit of the cable, we found it's trajectory path was much too straight where it either lifted the front of the shifter, or pulled the bulkhead fitting out of the "tunnel" mockup. Shifter lift: Our solution was to raise the cable exit from the shifter housing higher in order to have a better arc of the cable for entry through the floor. Here a "relocation bracket" has been added: Bracket all welded in place, looks like this will work for our shifter, return policy officially void now, but cable path fits much better through the floor: We also needed to finalize seat belts for the rear seats. These are 12 gauge CRS pieces that are plug welded to the floor pan, 1/2" diameter bolt holding the anchor points for inner seat belts. The outer belts needed to be all the way out to the wheel well, and to better "anchor" we made similar 12 ga brackets, this one with a hemmed end to "hook" the pinch weld seam of the floor pan/wheel well, then plug welded in place to the wheel well. Again, a 1/2" bolt will anchor the seat belt: While Mike and Jake started the layout of the console......... ......I fabbed up some bucket seat brackets out of 16 ga CRS for a 37 Ford. These had to be 3" high and only 1-1/2" wide, which was too high for my gooseneck die in the press brake. Chose to make them in two pieces and fusion tacked together using the TIG.
Thanks! Console fabrication, bottom and under dash edges are hemmed, folded flanges will support the filler panel between each side.. Fitting up the corner radius
Some sprayouts done this evening to see if we can nail down a color for the green. Will take another video tomorrow in the Sunlight for the true test. Color 1: Corvette Limerock Green Color 2: Land Rover Kosrae Green Color 3: Audi Azores Green Color 4: H/K Organic Green Kandy Basecoat
Sunlight views in same order, Color 1: Corvette Limerock Green Color 2: Land Rover Kosrae Green Color 3: Audi Azores Green Color 4: H/K Organic Green Kandy Basecoat Didn't get the pictures in overcast, but these help to show, 1-3 don't show color well at all in overcast or dim/indirect light conditions. As we'd like the car to look green regardless, we're leaning toward the H/K
Doing some organizing in the shop, getting ready for the metalshaping class. Saturday we made a rack for the Hoosier Profiles anvils for the wheeling machine. Used 2 x 4 x 1/8" aluminum angle and Tig welded on round stock. Go kart slick mounts on the back side. Also picked out a spot on the bench for mounting the new arbor press..
We got the wagon parts pulled out of the booth this past weekend where we had them stored during the metalshaping class. Getting back to tying up some loose ends.. Mike cuts out the driver side of the console.. All ready for thinning the bend lines.. .....while Jake and I worked on tipping the edge on the second seat bolster..
Been in Florida the past couple weeks for the day job, got back in time for Saturday's shop day. Jake worked on the rear seat bolster, the top profile was traced from the one we made for the driver's side but this mark needs to be on the opposite side for us to tip the flange. Easy transfer is to use a punch on the line to transfer the mark's location through the panel and then trace.. ....and then he used various round anvils for hammer forming the corners. I got started on welding in the corners of the passenger console side... This might work yet... While Jake was tipping flanges he needed some stretch in the crowned area. Looking at the too many pieces that came out of the Erco, it's possible that Jake has too much kick. We made some new spring plates out of 1/16 stainless sheet.. Back in business...
This weekend's progress... Jake finishing up on the seat bolsters. We don't always have the right tools to use, so on occasion we make them. This corner of the panel needed a sharper shape on the anvil With both bolsters done and fitted to the rear seat, Jake media blasted both and hung them up in the booth where he applied some SPI Epoxy primer. Meanwhile Mike and I worked on getting the driver's side of the console folded up.. We started by using the tipping die in the Lennox for thinning the bend lines. This both gives a sharper bend and also gives a "feel" for when the press brake's upper die is located in the proper bend location. Here's the highly technical back stop used to set the fold distance. We have a growing collection of these starting as the dimensional requirements change.. With two sides now, a spacer was made to clamp in the middle to hold our proper width.. Seats above are all the way forward, compare front location to next picture where they have been moved back to normal location, as well as mocking up the Chevelle shifter.. Next we'll get the radius pieces added and start on the internal structures of the console.
Maybe I missed it way back but what type of shop do you consider yours? Like general metal fabrication, restoration, or Hot Rod building.
We are a part time shop that does pretty much what the customer asks for. I would say we lean more toward metal shaping/fabrication. Where this one would likely be considered a resto-mod, the next project is a Divco that the owner wants bone stock.
Progress last night on the console, as I was welding the remaining bits in the drivers console side (sorry, no pics) Jake was using the GoKart slick in the Wheeling machine to add the correct contour to the rear panel for the console... Matches up well..... Then he made some practice side pieces so we could test the fitment to the rear panel after using the tank roll die in the Lennox. There's quite a bit of work in the console sides at this point, and we didn't want them to be the guinea pigs.. View of them clamped: We can use this rear panel on the console, and this weekend we'll use the tank roll die on the console sides and get them welded together..
Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to everyone on the HAMB! More progress today on the console, time to weld in the back section.. We had it clamped like so: But on second thought, it should be clamped on the upper portion... ....and to keep the bottoms from sliding out from under, some spacers were made out of scrap wood.... Tacked and welded with the TIG.... Jake cut out some corners, tipped some flanges, and used the Vise Grip tucking tool to gather up some of the excess metal. A torch heats up the tucks for an easy flattening. Trimmed and test fit... Inner corner finished in the same fashion...
The Jalopy Journal
