Technical Chevy six and gearbox, need gearbox ID and help

you can use that trans by getting a bell housing out of a 49 up pickup. it will still keep the foot starter, real real cheap at swap meets, then an open drive rear. if you to stay 6 bolt. second series 55 pickup-up..cheap at swaps should pay you to take it.

 

I already got the Bellhousing, and Front/Rear Axle.
I just need a slipyoke/propshaft.

 

The '41 - '47 pickup 3 speed to Chev/GMC people is like a '39 trans to Ford guys ...
The late one you have is a pickup trans - lower 2 bolts thread into trans. If you have the bell, then probably you also have the later clutch, flywheel & starter setup.
I doubt if I'll make enough money the rest of my life to ship a trans from Denmark, but a HAMB relay would be interesting ...
That yoke is a standard catalog part in Spicer or Republic.
Driveshaft can be made by a combo of a pre '63 Chev front weld-in yoke in a N***** driveshaft, or a N***** rear joint grafted to a pre '58 Chev shaft.

 

I understand how Its done with the prop shaft, I just need an item big enough to slip in to a Nissan shaft.
But the items ain't so available overhere.

I will check shipping, at least to satisfy my curiosity.

 

See if someone is sending a car over and slip it into the trunk... The Nissan rear end your'e looking at....6 stud , yes?

 

I believe it to be rare that people ship cars or parts stateside. But strange things have happened!

I'm not looking at the rear end, I got it.

It's a 1986 Nissan D21 King cab, 4.11, LSD, drumbrakes and 6 lug in the right width/PCD/pricerange.

I got a Chevy 1957 Task Force 1/2ton front axle. With brakes and all, sadly to wide for my frame, so I just need to adapt the brakes to the 1929.

Will it be a dog with either transmissions, 120 ish HP, 4.11 and 5.00/5.50-17 inch ?

 

Is there an open rearend conversion for that 46 Chevy box?

Or will the other be a better choice.

I just like look of the shifter in the 46, but I don't need the torque tube

 

No open drive w/o machine work.
Later trans will do your job better & easier.
Those pre-'48 shift towers & lids are not the best design ever put into production - not very strong, & soft metal on the moving parts.

 

Would it be possible to install a plate here, and add a seal to it.
Then I've been contemplating cutting and welding a Nissan Hardtail companion flange to the yoke.



So can I just install a Nissan propshaft, after adapting length.

The ball was a little worn, and then rolepin almost gone. I put a new tab in it, so it works for now. Still loose, but not bad, age and lifestyle factored in.



I really like the little thin shifter in the very petite box. So the plan is to make it work, and test it.
I still have the newer trans in the stash.

Any one got a picture about how a homemade shifter should look for the newer 3 speed?
I would like shifter at the front end, 30s style.

 

it might be easier to cut a torque tube down close to the tranny and make a carrier bearing set up making a two piece "driveshaft". like a mercedes.

 

Maybe, got any pictures?

This might sound stupid, but adapting a torquetube to Nissan rear?

The rear don't mind, I don't mind and the gearbox could go on as "a normal day at the office", and lubing the first joint as Louis intended it?

 

i was thinking, mounting the ball of the torch tube to the tranny, cut it a few inches back and make a mount and a carrier bearing to the frame, then put the open drive shaft flange on it. you would have to use a slip joint driveshaft [like the front shaft on a 4x4 truck.

 

Now you make sense!

But over here, getting splines cut in an axle is close to impossible.

So splicing to exist items is way easier to make happen.
But the sliding drive shaft is the most common item over here, so I can make that happen.

Will a 1929 Chevy TT fit in the 1949 transmission?

 

I'm not sure on that one, I have a late 20's torque tube out here on a rear axle that I have offered up free a couple of times to get rid of it. Problem there is you end up fighting swapping the rear brakes over.
You need to have a buddy who is a good machinist who likes a challenge when you start trying to change the close drive trans to an open drive. I'd go along with the simple way being to use a shortened piece of the matching torque tube with a bushing and a bolt on yoke on the back end to connect a slip yoke shaft to. That means no modifications to the transmission or odd parts there and all the machine work is at the back end of the cut off torque tube. That piece could be cut to what ever length is convenient to work with the install and maybe to match a driveshaft half that fits the rear axle.
The simple way for you and the least cost way is to use the later bellhousing you already have use one of the transmissions you already have and have a driveshaft made that matches the Ujoint that fits the yoke in the trans and the yoke for the rear axle. Then only the driveshaft shop guy has a headache
The only uncool thing about that setup is that the floor shift handle is going to be back beside the seat and you have to run a floor shift conversion. That somewhat takes the old time look away and makes it more of a later sporting car look as far as shifter location.

 

Why not just use the later trans with the open drive shaft?

 

That as is the big ol' question! I have two incomplete transmission, and I want to use the complicated one, because it looks the best for my application.

And because the old one looks the best and has a shifter.

Apose to the newer trans that has no shifter, crappy worn out shifter rods and no slip yoke.


Any comments/experience available about '29 Chevy torque on a Nissan rear end?
Because just adapting outside pipe to banjo, should be fairly simple, and then just trim up shaft inside, dress Nissan companion flange down on lathe, weld it to Chevy shaft

 

this is what i was thinking.

 

Just weld and flange in to here,, and make a similar one that fits on TT.



Weld a flange on to the drive shaft from the 1929 Chevy, and bolt to the Nissan flange.

The big question is, does the 1929 TT front part fit the 1946 gearbox, shaft housing and axle/joint/slip joint count.

 

good question, i have never tried it. do you have one?

 

I knew exactly what you mend, second time you explained it [emoji851][emoji106]
The biggest issue for me is to find the item that fits the gearbox.

1946 trucks is rare, and most prewar stuff got Beaten to death long before we ever got "new" trucks in 50s.
Remember after WW2 most of Europe struggled. And we had very few things, and most farms repurposed old trucks as tractors.
And you got fuel-coupons, so all farmers got the same amount of fuel.

 

I got the Nissan rear, and 1946 box, and I just found an stall 1929 project with matching paperwork .

And I might go look at soon.
I've sold 3 large items from my parts stash and then I got the cash to buy the 1929 stuff.



And that frame is WAY better then what I've got.

 

Don't you have a torque tube rear axle? Looks like there is one in the '29. By the way, anyone killed in the wreck ha ha ha.

 

No, I don't.
I got a Nissan D21, but I just found a double deal, on two bodies, one frame and axles. And two titles.
That was the two items in the picture.

 

Here's a new idea for ya ... find a '48 - '54 3/4 ton Chev/GMC driveshaft. Has a torque tube ball on the trans end that fits the '46, about 18'' stub shaft & bearing, then a spline for a slip yoke.

 

Got a picture?


You mean like this?

 

I'm without a camera for the next few days, but Old Car Manual Project will have a pic. I think Squirrel could help us find one faster than we can do the OCMP search.
Of course, there's another drawback - the u-joint & yoke in the ball has to be for the 3 speed, and finding 3 speed 3/4 ton parts is impossible.

 

I got the yoke and the u joint, in my gearbox, so now all you got to do is locate me the tube and parts, and send them to me. [emoji851][emoji111]️[emoji23]

 

Mock up [emoji851]

 

Good morning !
The parts in this picture are for a long bed 1/2 ton GMC with torque tube. The 3/4 ton version is longer, and has a slip yoke spline to open driveshaft.
Going out to the driveshaft rack to check inventory.

 

It looks like it would do the same, right? Can't I mix'n'match to make it work?

And thanks!