The third brush is adjustable, you move it one way, and it increases your charge, the other way will decrease it. The cut out opens when you shut the engine off so it won't run the battery down through the generator. I'll try to find a schematic for you, to help adjust your generator. The other thing you can do is run a 1939 or later generator with a voltage regulator. Come to think of it Jeff, this is probably why you were having problems with your ignition earlier.
I found this for you Jeff, makes it easy..... Rich https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum/printthread.cfm?Forum=18&Topic=1082
Thanks, Nobel. I'll check this out when I get back from Japan. Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Ha! Yeah, I was only there for a week. Not much new on this end. I did get my spare powder coated and mounted. I have to give another shout out to Les Schwab for their $30 powder coating. One week turn around. Got the spare back, mounted on the fender, complete with stock wheel lock!!! Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I've been driving the crap out of this little truck when it hasn't been too hot. Radiator still needs to be replaced, but other than that it's a solid runner. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Your truck's looking good. I'd heard that Les Schwab was offering powder coating on wheels, but 30 bucks, that's really cheap! It looks good in the picture...is it as good up close as it looks in a picture? Too bad you're not able to make the reliability run that's coming up...we'll miss you.
They do a great job. The wheels on the truck are two years in and holding up great! I may make it after all. Looks like I don't leave until Tuesday. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Nostalgia being what it is, my 34 Ford was a runner when I bought it, and I drove it for 6 months before doing anything to change it. That was only 60 years ago, seems like yesterday. I like your idea of hopping up the flattie.
Great if you can make it! I'll look forward to seeing you. Marcus Edell will be riding with me as navigator.
Got a “new” fan with a longer hub. Moved the fan forward by an inch. Should pull more air through the radiator. Also got what looks like a truck radiator to replace my leaker, but it’s got leaks. Oh well...still on the hunt. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Got my new key fob made by a friend who does leather work. Looks AWESOME! Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
So I "solved" my fuse issue. I use a 30ACG fuse in my fuse block, and it was blowing for unknown reasons. Sometimes right when I put a new fuse in, sometimes a bit later, but I'd lose all my lights when it happened. The other day, I was going to head over for an early get-together, and I knew it would be dark, so the day before, I decided to figure it out. My first guess was right! I disconnected the HORN, and now the fuse doesn't blow. I had heard somewhere a while back that the horn circuit can cause fuse failure, but didn't think much about it until I needed headlights. Now I just need to figure out WHY the horn caused the fuse to blow so I can have my horn back...
Good to see your thread back in action. When diagnosing your horn wiring, keep in mind the power goes "through" the horn, not "to" the horn. You likely know that though.
Long time, no posts. I’ve just been enjoying the truck and driving the crap out of it. Finally decided that the radiator needed fixed. Also, does anybody know what rubber plug fills this hole just to the right and below the foot rest? Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Also thinking about replacing the clutch and pressure plate. I’ve been having lots of chatter and it’s probably due. Thoughts on what I should do? Lightened flywheel? Upgraded setup???? Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
One thing often not done when "specifically chasing a chatter problem"...borrow a dial indicator to see if the flywheel surface is running true. I do that before taking it off for resurfacing, but again after install too. If the motor was dropped, or the crank was ever bumped or dropped on it's flange, it can be bent just a few thousandths which will cause chatter. That hole in the toe board is for access to the TOB, I believe it is a sheetmetal cover
Got the radiator back and installed. Decided to do a battery relocate to under the seat and add a cut off switch as well as new motor mounts and radiator mounting pads. Sent from my iPad using H.A.M.B.
Turns out the clutch chatter was because of the deteriorated motor mounts. Chatter is now gone! Yea! Yes, Craig, I’m ready for summer and the next reliability run!!!! Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Well, I guess it was probably just inevitable that this would happen at some point. I stopped at the gas station on Saturday and somebody told me my truck was leaking from the engine. The radiator usually spits out a bit of fluid when I stop because there's no recovery tank (yet). But this time the puddle was bigger, and foamy... I opened up the cap, and the fluid inside was all foamy and smelled unlike radiator fluid. I turned back and drove it home (3 blocks) and parked it in the garage. I had to go help a friend demo a kitchen, so the truck had to wait. I started tearing into it on Sunday (I probably needed an excuse to do the heads and mani anyway, so this was the trigger. Pulled the heads and the intake manifold. Need to order new head gaskets and some other parts to get it back together. After the stock heads and intake were off, I put on the Edelbrock's and Edmunds intake just to cover the open holes. They look nice sitting there. Put in spark plugs and the oil fill/fuel pump assembly to cover those openings as well. Just like me to drop a washer or nut into an opening. Looks like my next couple of weekends are booked...
Yes. It was head gasket. I got new Best brand gaskets and installed new studs. Put on the Edelbrock heads with new nuts and washers from VanPelt. Torqued it down to 40, then 50. Ran it for 20 minutes to get up to temp. Let it sit for a couple of hours to cool down. When I went to re-torque at 50, the passenger side head cracked at the middle stud and drained all the water. . I spent the rest of the weekend drinking and thinking about what I did wrong. I pulled the heads off today, and noticed that all of the “hardened” steel washers had been deformed by the nuts. Seems strange that would happen. I took a file to one of the washers and it was very easily filed. Anybody know what the hardness of the washers should be? Because they’re easy to file, I don’t think they’re hard at all. Super bummed. The cracks are bad. And all the surfaces on the heads are now deformed. Sent from my iPad using H.A.M.B.
That would sure wreck the shit out of my day, and I am saying this while in the middle of a smaller scale disaster of my own. I hope you find the reason for this. Why it happened, just doesn't make sense to me. Bob
The Jalopy Journal
