1948 Ford F4 build thread

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I finished putting the vent windows together and installed them. I also installed the window regulator and division bar. Man that division bar was a pain in the back side to install!! Now I'm on to the window felts. I have the main one that goes around the window in but am struggling with the fuzzies on either side of the door. Is there a secret to install the little clips??







These are the minions of evil I'm struggling to install.



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Yep it's a pain in the ass....those clips are really hard to snap but once in place they old tight!


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I officially HATE installing the window fuzzies!!! Oh my word what a pain in the posterior!! Unfortunately I nicked the paint in a few places. [emoji35][emoji35]


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I've still been plugging away at the old Ford by testing all of the electrical items. I had an issue with the starter solenoid; I could hear it clicking but it wasn't sending power to the starter, so I replaced it and the starter turns over now. I have an issue with my brake lights that I haven't fully tested yet. There's a pressure switch in the proportioning valve and I have power to one side of it, I just need to see if the switch is transferring power to the other side when the brake pedal is pressed. Also had an issue with the fuel gauge. The aftermarket sending unit would only bring the fuel gauge to half-a-tank. After talking with a good friend of mine, he schooled me on the King Seeley gauges and sending units and then offered the original sending unit off his '40 Ford to me! I got it in the mail and tested it this weekend and it works! I cleaned up the exterior, inspected its innards and then modified the float arm to work with the truck's fuel tank. I now of the fuel gauge reading exactly half a tank (with 10 gallons of gas in the tank).

Next up is to start the motor. Crossing my fingers all of the ignition and charging systems are connected/workingly properly.

 

Stopped by the powder coater today and the bed frame is done!! Man it looks good. It's a little dusty in the pictures.

One more step forward!








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Great progress, on both the electrical and powder coating issues. Closer every day.

 

The corners you fixed look like they turned out great!

 

Thanks Johnboy! I'm very happy with how it turned out. Even the button head bolts give that riveted look; at least from a distance. I sure wish the truck would fit in my garage with the bed on because I'm anxious to mount it permanently.

 

Very nice sir.Please keep the updates coming.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo

 

Would one of you be able to help me with a measurement? I need to know the position of the weather strip that seals the body to the door. Please see the picture.



Thank you


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Just fired up the truck!! The only leak was a coolant leak on the lower radiator hose/pipe where I put the drain plug. The charging system was putting out about 13.4 volts. My brake lights work. Shifts into gear good. Cycled the steering a few times with no whine. Oil pressure was steady at about 60 lbs idling and went up when I reved the motor. I need to program the radiator fan controller (wish I knew exactly what the temp was on the motor before my wife turned the engine off. The temp gauge was about 3/4 and the fan was not on but I know the thermostat was open because the upper radiator hose was hot as were the heater hoses.

I'm so glad it ran good. It's always a bit worrisome starting a vehicle after you've done a lot of work on it.


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that says you are doing things right

 

Niiiiiice!!!

 

With the excitement of running the engine I decided to go ahead and mount the AC vents. The left and right side vents are just bolted under the dash.



For the center vents I decided to mount them behind the speaker grill. True, I won't be able to adjust them but I just hated the look of them hanging below the dash. Here's how I did it.

First I screwed in some machine screws into the back of the speaker grill. Then I cut the heads off of the screws (not shown).



Next I cut some metal to mount the vents to.



I slide it behind the dash.



Finally I put the speaker grill in place, matched up the studs to the holes in the metal mounting the vents and tightened them together with nuts.






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Behind the speaker grille. What a great idea.

 

Cool progress on the A/C system! Whens the first test drive? Just looked back to the start of your thread and its been nearly 6 years!

 

I don't know if anyone sent the measurement for your door seal, I just measured mine it is 7/8" below floor board to top of channel. Stock 51 F1 should be the same cab.

 

The first test drive is not soon enough! I'm close, just a bunch of little things that need to be done.


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Thank you!!


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I installed the weather stripping yesterday. Thank you paleot for the measurement! The install went well. Now my only problem is I can't shut the driver's door!![emoji35] The passenger door shuts and seals fine. I tried adjusting the driver side hinges out but couldn't get enough adjustment. Guess I'll have to take the door off and see if I can persuade some more adjustment from it.

Always seems like one step forward and two steps back.




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Are you going to be high and dry enough if Irma wanders up your way? Looks like downstate the weekend forecast is horrible.

 

Is the seal too thick, hard? I take it the shuts fine without the rubber. You could use clay or something to check clearance between door and rocker, (like checking valve to piston) and see how much room there is. And hopefully you stay high and dry through that storm!

 

Right now we are on the wrap around side of it.

 

Well, "high" is a relative term in Florida. As long as Irma doesn't go too much more west we should be ok. Like George said, we'd be on the wrap around side which, if you have a choice, is the better side to be on. I'm definitely keeping an eye on the storm.


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Johnboy, I think the driver's door just shuts closer to the "rocker" area of the body. The Passenger door closes perfectly with the rubber seal in place. If I can just get a little more adjustment on the driver hinges I think I can make it work. Worst case I may have to remove the C channel that holds the rubber in place and just glue the rubber to the rocker area.


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I'm sure you'll get it, stay safe.

 

We're crossing our fingers for you Sunshine State folks, and the same for the waterlogged Texas and Louisiana areas, the blazing Northwest and West and whatever Mother Nature wants to throw at us next.
I'm thinking you're right on needing to bend the hinges, but first look to see if there's some other adjustment mechanism before starting to bend older metal. Would it be better to heat it before bending, and how hot?

 

Osage, what I want to try first is to see if I can get any more adjustment from where the hinge mounts to the A pillar. I had to make the plates that the hinge bolts screw in to. It's possible I made the plates too big and thus not allowing enough adjustment. That's the easiest place to start at least. I really don't want to resort to bending the actual hinges.

 

Exactly. We're on the same page.