Projects "Fly'nBrian" '34 Roadsterproject.

Lookin' good, Brian.
Your car is cool in a functional- no BS- sort of was.

 

I think Gary meant "sort of way" but I like "sort of was", it may the be the very definition of the word "traditional".

 

Lol, I got it, I can't text either!

 

Thanks Gary, that means I'm getting it right. ;-)

 

Oh yeah man looking fantastic . We like color & lots of it.

 

I went to the (ever dwindling) swap meet at Nats North and bought just one thing, the Southwind heater housing. I plan on putting one of the small 12V heaters in it. I picked up a bag of trinket parts I need, mostly switches and wiring stuff, and some new door hinge pins to replace the 1/4" bolts in them now. I ordered a pair of polished stainless block hugger headers from the same online vender I got the ones for my Riviera from. For $75, I can't media blast and paint the ones I have.

 

flynbrian48 post up some pics of how you are doing your heater. I have two of these Southwind heaters that I want to convert for my mine and my brothers 31 roadsters. Any ideas would be very much appreciated.

 

Brian,you always have something going on,and you are kind enough bring us along it's appreciated.

 

Thanks! Sometimes I'm afraid I'm boring people. I'll post up photos of the heater when I do it.

 

Snyd's sells the door hinge reamer just for the larger hinge pins...
I like to use the stainless trim [spear] off the SW heater and run it on my filled '32 shell's peak... ... still have a spare spear...?

 

Hey B. I did a tech week thread on my 12v heater conversion a couple of years ago, check it out
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...ont-add-water-tech-week.993340/#post-11190248
It might help my 34 brotha

 

How did it end up working for you?


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It works great...theoretically . While not yet installed I have bench tested it jumping it off one of my cars to monitor the voltage draw and the efficiency of the ceramic heater elements and fan motors and it works very well. The draw isn't tremendous but I would recommend Brian running an alternator with at least 90 amp continuous (not just rated at 90 amps at 2500 rpm). I built a relay into my electrical system for it and it will be on an isolated fused circuit direct the battery, not run through my fuse panel.

 

The stainless shorty headers I ordered the other day arrived, and just like ones I bought for the 5.3 LS in my Riviera, these are beautiful. 3/8" thick CNC cut flanges, beautiful welds, and very nicely polished, I couldn't have painted the scruffy Jet-Hot coated originals for the $75 these cost. Call me cheap, but a dollar is a dollar. Oh, and the oil fill tube and breather cover came too. Now I gotta polish those valve covers!

 

I think we can put a big "DONE" stamp on this part of the build.

 

So how did you finally block off the breather holes?

 

Looks great Brian!

 

I did it the quick and dirty way. ;-) Brake-Kleen to get the oily gook out of the inside, filed a little bevel on each side, and JB Weld. There were two 3/16" holes behind one, and three on the other. JB Weld is good stuff, I made a new boss on the trans case of my Panhead to hold the end plate on with it, that had been over tightened and split off.
Let it harden, drilled and used a Heli-Coil. If oil and vibration affected it, an old Harley is the acid test. ;-)

 

Just like Johnny Cash said one piece at a time! Joe

 

This shit is get'n real up in here...

 

What the heck Brian? Did you all of a sudden find 30 hour days somewhere? Lots of work eh progress really quick! Joe

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Who was the header manufacturer Brian? And is it an late module GM V8 in the Riviera? One of those we don't talk about?

 

I don't think Brian sleeps,cars campers camping,always flat out in a project .

 

One step closer to paint. Another day, and it'll be in primer.

 

I see colors..

 

Looking good!

 

It's in primer!

 

Well done young man l!! Joe

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One color of primer is a huge visual change. Looks way better!