Termites and Bowties- Early Chevy Group

Cool thanks, i gotta alot of time to hunt gonna be at least a year before i can start on it

 

the likely ebay sellers name is........... JDANIEL2140

mike lynch

 

he has lots of stuff, just don't ask him a question, don't seem friendly or wanting to look/send pics. Not to mention very limited descriptions

 

Ding ding ding, communication was a chore...

 

^^^^^
I've asked questions before about stuff and got 1 word answers. I'm close enough to drive and pick up anything, but figure he isn't the kinda guy that would ask if there is anything else I would need and let me check and spend more $$$ with him.

 

I have only purchased parts off him thru ebay auctions. Never had a problem. His shipping quotes/prices have gone up this year. Looking at one of his items for sale now, just have to check the car to see if shape of part is the same.

mike

 

Today I finally located something I have looked for , for last 5 or so years. These are weber air cleaners in aluminum New Old Stock. They were either made by Fast Freddys in Arizona back in the 80-90's or by Weber for the IDA series carbs. I discovered these by accident on ebay ,not as an active listing but as an item that did not sell a couple months ago and contacted the seller. Voila , he still had them and now they are mine.

I have a weber setup for my shazzbott 35 chevy roadster I purchased on ebay used with 48 idf carbs. Its currently out getting the carbs rebuilt and white powder coat taken off to be done in satin black and the manifold which was polished is being blasted and done in gloss black powder coat. I hate polishing aluminum parts, powder coating is so much simpler and easier to maintain.

The picture of the complete set from Jim Ingelese is the inspiration for where I am headed with these.

mike lynch

 

I'm back mike you told me you use jag rear ends? Will a 90 jag rear end fit under my 35 ? I believe I might have located one [emoji121]️


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if your going to use a jaguar rear end under your 35 chev standard series you need to ONLY use 1962--1986 rear ends. The 86 and up rear ends are unsuitable for use and nobody makes a cross member for it.

SNOW WHITE CHASSIS makes a jag cross member for 34-35 Chevrolet.

They come in following widths. E type.........XKE 53" wide hub to hub, is really too narrow, but that can be corrected using custom made rear wheels with a special offset to tuck the tires.......65--70 series under the stock fenders.

S series 1962--1968 very difficult to find and come in 56-57" wide the perfect width for our chevys.

XJ series....mark X 1964--1965 and others from the large sedans are 61 3/4" wide, really too wide. A FULLY negative offset wheel would have to be used to attempt to pull the 65--70--75 series tires under the fender.
The biggest problem with the jag rears of the wider width is narrowing the half shafts which are forged, and cannot be safely narrowed with all kinds of rehardening of the 1/2 shafts. You need to find a pair of "tubular steel half shafts " as used on the early xke .
I personally need to go to a driveshaft shop and see if the forged 1/2 shafts can be machined on the ends where the u-joints are and converted into tubular style half shafts ??????????????????

Narrowing the lower control arms ( wishbones ) is fairly easy. I made a JIG to do it following concours west design. No longer in business.

Personally a 12 bolt chev or 9" ford made to the right width is the best way to go , for ease of your wallet. A pair of after market coil over gas shocks in the 225--250 pound range is the sensible way to go.

Walk around a cruise nite, or event , pay attention, how many people do you actually see look under a car down on one knee. Maybe 1---out of a 100 . All us old guys have trouble getting down and then up.

All three of my cars have Jag rears with kugel front ends. I want ride control , handling, stopping . You cannot see them under the cars, unless your 20 feet behind me .

mike lynch

 

Ok, thank you.


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I bought a 1930 Coupe, seems pretty solid was set up as a basic little hot rod done years ago. Came with the original fenders and hood sitting off car for years. Fiberglass fenders had been on it, when I picked it up was without fenders, guy was driving like this. Got home started tearing into it and finding a lot of termite damage in some areas. Going to have to figure out best avenue to take in building glad to find this group.

 

That is a nice find. I'd like to see more pictures and hear more plans.

 

Here are a few pictures

 

The motor in it is a 65 327 going to change it to a 283 with a triple deuce set up suspension needs changed as well as steering etc. But main concern now is getting structure fixed.

 

It looks pretty solid. I'd just try to strengthen what needs it. One of the worst things that happens to Chevy hot rods is the Fordification of the suspension. Even worse is the IFS/IRS treatment. Of course that's just my opinion. Does yours have a dropped axle?

 

Main sill is the main structural part to me as the entire body is set up from this piece, it runs from the firewall to the rear quarters and the body is nailed/bolted to it and it in turn is bolted to the frame. If they are in good shape then the rest of the wood is something that a cabinet man can help you with. You can find a Fisher body manual to assist in most of the set up. GREAT FIND and the body really looks good.

 

It would appear to have a MOR-DROP front axle, dropped 3---4" over stock, using the fender braces as a visual guide to height . It might be an early stock axle that was dropped . Or the more commonly used 1940--54 1/2 ton to use the 1949--53 pass car spindles and brakes .

You can get the beam axle system to ride nice by using TOURING quality tires and Teflon lining between the front spring leaves so it all slides together. Not sure where to get that product, maybe SPEEDWAY MOTORS. Or go to a POSIE's Horseless Carriage shop , spring system that uses teflon pucks near the ends.

Grind ends of springs rounding them off and paint the leaves so they do not grind into each other..

If the wood is bad, doesn't look bad and at least its all there and you can copy it using ash or oak with a band saw and some chisels .

mike lynch

 

Okay SIX BALL , as ricki ricardo would say.....SPLAIN TO ME why IFS and/or IRS is a bad thing. ???

Then I will tell you why they are so superior > !

Follow up , I guess disc brakes are a bad thing too. > ???

Older guys who have been around since the sixties no longer desire to drive a car with a slow corvair or mustang steering box, has the ride quality of a dump truck, brakes that require 2 feet on the pedal to stop . RETRO style cars are fine , but do you want to do 1000 miles in one ?

mike lynch...........

 

I'm a big boy now and I don't have to "splain" nuthin' to nobody. I'm only 72 so I don't know what you older guys like to drive. I didn't get my first car, a '38 Ford Coupe, until I was 14 the year after my brother and I took his '39 Ford Coupe from Texas to Northern California. That was 1958 he was barely 18 and I was barely 13. A few years ago my son and I made a round trip to the Lone Star Roundup in Austin. I started in Northern Nevada and picked up my so in Ventura then headed for Texas. This was in my '53 Chevy Pickup with basically stock suspension and bias-ply tires. We drove between 75 and 80 when we could. I was gone a week and put 4,000 miles on the pickup. I have no doubt that independent suspension is "superior" but it's just not right on hot rods maybe on street rods if it doesn't show. Maybe when I get old I'll change my mind but I'm still at the stage when I want my old cars to drive and sound like old cars. To each his own.

 

yep! i never understood the "i want my old car to drive like a new car" mentality.......just drive a new car, or get one of those "kits" . i put over 100k miles working a '39 gmc with the original front end and box, and thousands of comfortable miles on my 33, of course they are both superior general motors products, not those, one spring in the front, one spring in the back buggies.....

 

I am also 72 and drove my 35 3W coupe from 1970 to 1996 , 26 years, with a dropped Mor-Drop super drop beam axle, with 7 leaves per side and Teflon sliders. It drove to ALL the NSRA nats from 1970--1976. Motor was a 1957 olds 371 punched 1/8 and stroked 1/4 for 422 inches of torque monster. Steering was ford manual late 60's mounted upside down , with 60 series tires it was tough to turn unless moving. Drive it enough and you developed bulging biceps.

It rode rough and you felt every stone or crack in the roads. In 1996 I installed the KUGEL jag based IFS with coil overs, because that is what people were doing. There was no rat rod scrap or barely any period late 50's early 60-70 era cars. The trend was resto rods, and I built one.

Unless you got down on your hands and knees to look under the front of a 1934 chevy, you would never know it had ifs. Standing up to 30 feet behind me you would never know it had IRS. Barely anybody looks under a street rod anymore.

Re bias ply tires........drive the major interstates and get into the truck produced tracks/ruts and at 75--80 MPH or quicker , you could end up in the next lane real fast.. Radials will not do that to you, they will track and stay in control.

mike lynch

 

Pfffft!

 

Just to change the subject [emoji23], a little progress...


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If you follow the "trend" and decide to make a street rod out of it I might be interested in the front end that's on it now. (axle and springs)

 

now that's what I call a beefed up X member , with tranny mount.

Six ball is going to be tuning this one out , its got a mustang based IFS, with power steering. Definitely not old school.

mike

 

JGROHIO..................that's a neat ride just as it is, dropped axle, disc brakes, the single leaf front spring setup is interesting in that its only one leaf. Not sure I have seen that in use, but if it works without the car bouncing around, great.
Looking at car, if the fender and running board braces were removed makes a great highboy old school looking car. You can get that 50--60's look easily. Add a stock radiator gravel shield in between frame rails for a nice looking touch. Gives the front a more stylish semi finished look.

Looking at the multiple pictures, I would say the door posts look very solid, roof wood looks dry, poke with a knife to see. The trunk floor panel has a really nice pattern in it and should be able to be taken out and painted to look like new.

The MAIN SILLS that run from firewall to just past door posts that my friend Chuck Craig spoke about, are real important in the structure. The whole car is built around or off these. The braces are attached to it, the posts also and the cross pieces tie the two sides together as a unit. Then the body parts are nailed and screwed to it. IF you take the wood out your doors will sound like a ford........clank , rather than THUNK CLICK. The main sills should be ASH if they have to be replaced, thickness about 1 7/8" thick , but looking real hard at the pictures they looked pretty solid to me. Buy rough sawn or 2" thick and plane with electric planer to the 1 7/8 , if that's what your 30 uses.

Get the metal for wood replacement wrong and you can be in for a very difficult time attempting to get things to line up and fit again. Nothing like the creak & squeak of an old 30's chevy on a chilly fall day .

You have a great starter car, that's in fabulous condition IMHO

Picture is of the main floor sills for a 34-35 chev as an example. Yours should be similar with a couple of wood cross braces side to side.

mike lynch

 

this what I think a traditional hot rod is, pretty trick car with a track feeling to it. Its extremely well done and look ma no rust either , fake or real .

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...rack-style-from-canada.1075755/#post-12200413