Adding some info. It's a 53 that uses to have the V8. If I put the new radiator in, I have 1.5" from the very tip of the water pump. This is a bit of a story. Sorry in advance for the rant. Hope you guys can offer some insight. So, I destroyed my old radiator. I attempted to solder up a leak and I overheated it, making some solder puke out. No big deal, I ordered a new one. It is identical in size and mounting points. I also picked up an electric fan and shroud. I wanted to run an electric fan because I don't like the 4 blade non-clutch fan on my 351W. I thought a shroud and fan would cool way better. The problem is that I didn't measure first... there is no room for the rad/shroud/fan. I modified the shroud to fit and can't return it. The radiator is about 2.25" thick. My shroud is 1" and the fan is 3.5" deep. At this point, these are my options. 1. Run the fan as a push fan. If I did this, should I still use the shroud to funnel air at the motor? I wouldn't have to cut anything, and could use what I already have. 2. Go through the expensive task of getting a shorty pump and pulley. I would still have to move the radiator towards the front of the car AND buy a thinner fan even after spending $ to shorten by 1.5 inches. 3. Just install the radiator and the original fan 4. Run the original fan with the electric as a push, no shroud. Here's what I fabbed up even though it does not fit. :/
Is there enough room to mount it on the inside of the shroud as a pull? Sent from my SM-G955U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Thank you for your reply. I'd still end up having to move the radiator, which I don't mind doing. It wouldn't include too much cutting. It would still be tight, I think. I'll keep that in mind tomorrow and try to mock it up with the cardboard radiator I made to help me solve this problem. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
The mounting in a '54 is different from those with a y-block and those with a Six which was mounted more forward if that may help since we don't know what yours was at first. Here is a picture of a '54 that had a Six and now has a 302 with the early 1966-69 "short" water pump.
Still Jeff that fan looks to be a bit far away from the radiator to effectively draw air through its fins.
I could just put it back on with the new radiator but I thought the electric would cool better. And I thought that the 4 blade won't be necessary at highway speeds.
Maybe, but I'd still have to move the radiator and do some cutting. The shroud without the fan comes right up to the water pump. The thinnest fan I found was 2"
This is one solution: http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/cooling-articles/482048-junkyard-upgrade-dual-electric-fans.html Notice in the pictures that the water pump pulley is centered between the two fans ?
I'm using a good flex fan and an electric fan for when I get stuck in traffic. I was able to keep my radiator ('59 Ford) in the stock position and get a spacer (Perma Cool) to get it in the right place. I added a shroud but it didn't make a lot of difference.
You mounted your electric in front? I'm looking into this. I wish the fan companies listen the full measurements so I could try to avoid the pulley my 12 foot deep water pump.
Have you looked at a Sidewinder fan? Not particularly cheap but could solve your problem. https://the-fan-man.com/product/side-winder-electric-fan-kit/
You mounted the electric in the front in conjunction with the fan? geeze! If all else fails I'll consider it. Guess you're paying for the compactness.
If you're set on using the electric fan set up then this is probably useless, but if you're open for other alternatives this may help. I had to change my plans.... I am not sure how much difference there is in room between a 53 and a 54, but on my 54 I was able to get my radiator mounted in the front position with a water pump from an early 67-69 small block (not the short water pump) and used a 16 inch mechanical fan, with a 1" spacer, to put it one inch from the radiator with no shroud. I originally had mounted my radiator away from the engine in the back position with ideas of using the electric fan, but when I went to add the AC condenser I had to regroup and move the radiator back forward and get rid of the electric fan.. NO chance of fitting an electric fan on mine no matter what with AC. I had even purchased the Champion 16 inch slimline fan first, but just no space. ( I have the fan for sale ) Currently in Florida's 90 plus heat the engine temp hasn't gone over 200 with AC on and no shroud.. (I used a Champion 3 row radiator.) I used simple L brackets to the core support and the radiator side brackets to move it around. Probably moved it 4 times before I got it to clear everything, but AC condensor was my issue. Without AC it should be fairly easy. I attached a pic to show the distance from the block flange to the outer water pump pulley using the 67 water pump in case that can help you or someone else figure your spacing.
That is the same radiator I bought. I think I may try it out with just the original fan and see what happens with the temp.... I did find a way to get a little more room doing minimal cutting. I'm glad to hear that this setup worked for you.
My fan is a 16" Spal mounted in front of the radiator as a pusher. It comes on if I'm in traffic for a while and works well. The kit (on eBay) came with the mounting brackets, relay, sensor and just about everything I needed for $166.
I would recommend more than a 4 blade fan if you go with a flex fan for the V8. Mine is a Flex Lite #1316 with 6 blades. If you aren't going with a.c. you should be able to set the Champion radiator back enough and still clear the radiator support for your electric fan. I had room initially for the electric fan setting the radiator back until I tried to mount the Condensor and it interfered with the core support. Here's a pick with the radiator originally moved back. I had room for the electric fan then even without the expensive short water pump and pulley set up. f
This is pretty much the idea that I'm going with. I just have to cut a little bit and I'll be good to go. Thank you to everyone for the replies!
Finally got done. I'll share what I did, maybe it can help somebody out. I got a Spal 14" thin fan. I fabbed this up with a summit shroud and some 2" angled aluminum. I used my template to see where I'd need to cut. I cut a few inches off, about 1/4" behind the support that goes to the top. This allowed me to drop the radiator down and also move it forward. I used this time to clean up the block. Here's what I'm left with after the install. I used 4" bolts and 2 5/8" 7/16 ID spacers it mount them to the original holes (stretched out a bit) Please excuse the length of my upper heater hose. The system is very happy and runs no hotter than 185 in bumper to bumper traffic. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Does the fan run all the time, thermostat on it? Mine comes on if I'm in traffic and isn't that loud.
I have mine on a thermostat switch hooked to the intake bung. I don't like the "through the fins" type. It turns on at 180 on the nose and isn't loud at all. It'll turn off once I get driving and the wind cools it. So far so good. I was going to wire an override switch but I didn't yet.
Looks like a great install that could certainly help me with my build. My only concern is that you used a 14 inch fan, just not enough room for a 16?
My sensor is in the head. My temp gauge is in the intake and the fan comes on close to what it is advertised to. On at 195 and off at 175. It really is never on for more than a couple of minutes at a time. The manual switch is probably a good idea in your case.
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