58gmc1/2ton truck Just installed jute padding inside and now wondering if I would have been better off using dynomat or something similar FIRST then the jute? Used spray adhesive to bond the padding. I have a feeling it wont come up very well if I remove it. Eventually carpet is going to cover from firewall to the back of the cab. Thoughts.......
I have that cottony stuff in my 59 pickup, under carpet. It's been in there 25 years, roughly. I still like it. New trucks are far superior to old trucks. but that doesn't make them more desirable to me. Same with individual parts of said trucks.
Well nobody plans on getting their carpet wet inside but things happen Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Just because it is old school doesn't mean it is better, I'm older than dirt and I don't work so well anymore. Seriously, the old insulation is one of the reasons we have to replace floors, when that stuff gets wet it stays that way for a long time. My info from some time ago says that the original purpose of the dynomat (foam with silver sheeting) and also sold by other names was as insulation on the space shuttle. That may or may not be true but at least it doesn't absorb water. Remember Flubber? That was originally called Thiokol and it was a solid fuel rocket propellant. As I recall that was in a Disney Movie. Amazing how things invented for high tech project end up in our hot rods.
I like the Stinger Roadkill Expert for the main butyl/aluminum deadener and then Stinger Carpet Pad on top of that. The Stinger Roadkill products are a high quality cost effective alternative the the Dynamat brand products. Please do not use asphalt based products in your car. You will not like dealing with it later and it will not remain bonded to the panel especially if used in doors or roof.
Finishing the carpet install on my '31 today. Fat Mat/jute/carpet. Haven't had it back on the road yet, but fired it and the combination really helped cut the drone in the interior.
I've used everything out there, and it all depends on the vehicle. You are not going to get much heat/noise transfer in a truck cab, unless you've got open headers right under the floor. The last few pickups I've done, I just used jute, with rubber or carpet over. No problem. My last project, '62 Fairlane with a 289, true dual exhaust, and Shelby Cobra Glass Packs, was very comfortable with the same jute/carpet combo.
I used Fat Mat Rattle Trap in my Ford. It went down nicely, but it is fairly thin. It doesn't seem like it will hold moisture.
I used Lizard Skin, and have to say "I'm a Believer". Super product. Just realized, you didn't ask for suggestions, just a choice of Jute or stick on. But if there's still time to decide, consider the Lizard Skin.
they are two different things: one is a resonance dampener for flat metal panels. when you put your ear on a train track and can hear the train coming through the rail but not through the air, that is resonance. the point where the resonance of a panel is greatest with the least amount of effort is called the resonant frequency. adding weight to the panel lowers its resonant frequency, making it take much more power to have the same output level. anyone who has bought an amplifier for bass speakers knows it needs to be 2-3 times the size and the speakers need to be 2-3 times the size to play as loudly as a midrange or tweeter. the jute padding is a mass backing for absorptive damping. the mass in contact with the resonating metal absorbs the sound, similar to how insulation blocks heat from entering/leaving. this also works well to block reflected sound inside the cabin, the jute under the carpet absorb these reflections. putting on a total layer of asphalt backed deadener material has a diminishing return, it is not necessary to cover it completely or put on multiple layers because the way it works is to lower resonance of the metal and eventually it will take more added material for an nth lowering of frequency. there arent any pores in the metal for sound to pass through, it is literally the sound on one side impacting the panel, then the panel sympathetically vibrating and causing the sound to be heard on the other side. so adding just enough to lower the resonant frequency and then stopping is the best application. long story short, do both!
I used fat mat on my 51 Fleetline and then a layer of jute. When I unrolled my carpet I saw that it had another layer of jute glued to the bottom of it. I just layed it all on top of the first layer.
of course, my "race car" (with over 18k miles on it now) has a nice plain simple floor covering...red primer. It don't bother me.
What happens when the water gets under the Dynamat. It can`t go anywhere. Except to sit and rust your floorboards. Have you ever pulled up your dynamat. Is it possible. If you had too.
Having lived in the Midwest all my life, and have had to replace countless number of floor pans due to the jute backing holding moisture against the floor pan until they rot out, I really do not want to put jute material in anything I own. Unfortunately, the rubber floor mat in my coupe has a jute backing. Fortunately, the bonded windshield and the fully enclosed vent system make my coupe one of the driest cars I've ever had as far as water on the floors. I guess when they rot out, I will just replace them. My new truck will have 1/8" steel diamond plate floor pans, but I think I'm going us use the silver lined bubble stuff in it. Gene
There is a lot more to making a car/truck quiet than just adding something under the carpet. Door gaps and vent windows trip the airflow which makes noise. New vehicles have foam filled voids. All to make it quiet inside.
I'm putting the door seals on my Ford, one side is done already. The car is fairly loud inside although my exhaust goes out the back under the bumper. I get a lot of road noise and the wind too. I have to do the rear package tray too.
I used the Peel and Seal stuff from Lowes on my floor, been very happy with it so far. Will be putting padding down on top of that when the new carpet goes in.
Like BamaMav, I put down the double sided tar/ roofing material that comes in a 6"x 25' roll for only $30. One roll took care of my 54' floors and doors. Covering the entire floor is a waste of material/ money. Put down pieces on large large flat panels of the floor, and that is all you need. The bead rolls in the floor don't cause noise, only the flat parts. Then cover it with jute, and carpet. While you're at is, put a few strips inside the door, on the inside of the outer panel, it will help with sound while driving, and opening/ closing the doors. 1957 Ford Fairlane 500 Sunliner 1954 Chevy 210 Building-1930/1931 Ford Roadster Pickup
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