Hi All, my name is Kevin, this is my first time posting up here, but I have been following these posts for a while now before I picked up my newest project, 54 Bel Air Hardtop... It's basically all original, 235, 2 speed powerglide, I've done a bit of work to make her road worthy, the only thing that is getting rough is the suspension, a previous owner cut the front springs and threw some lowering blocks in the back, while it looks great and has a good stance, any little bump sends a shockwave up anyone's spine in the car. I always planned to put air ride on it, but due to the way it rides, the schedule has moved up quite a bit and it's going to be my winter project now. I picked up a roller frame out of a '53 so I could still drive the car and then swap when i'm ready. I've read through just about all the post and tech articles on here and the wealth of information has been great but I don't know if due to that stupid photbucket thing it appears most of the tech articles are missing pics and the text is kinda screwey too now. Anyway, I realize this information is probably already out here, but i'm having no luck finding it, hence this post. I worked with Alex at Gambino and picked up his Extreme Air Ride kit, I've pretty much got everything in on the front and that went together great, the instructions from FatMan were decent and the rest I had to contact Alex or use some common sense. The problem I'm having now is with the rear notches, I have pre-welded the top hat and sides together and before took the original rear end out I marked the centerline of the axle. Here's the question, is there a measurement off the rear edge of the frame to locate the notch? Does the notch centerline sit directly over the centerline of the rear end? It appears that the profile of the side pieces follow the geometry of the frame and I think I have it placed where it is supposed to be, but I'm just not sure. I know a lot of guys use the rear seat angle as a gauge, but since it's a roller, I don't have that luxury. Can anybody help me out with this? Thank you all in advance for any help!! Kevin
These cars have 115" wheel base. Center line of the front axle is 16" back from the center of the first set of mounting holes on the front frame rails, or roughly 131.25" from the front of the frame to the center of the rear axle. Sent from my XT1096 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I've got the body off my frame right now as I'm getting my frame ready to go to powder coat. I can take any measurement you need. That being said, your welds on your notch concern me, they look very cold. I'm not sure what your welding experience is, but maybe a bit more practice before welding on a component as important as a frame is in order.
Thanks Cretin and Dan, yea I agree and noticed that the welds looked cold as well, the inside welds created a light blueing on the top plate, but I need to turn up the voltage and slow the wire speed down perhaps, I'm planning to grind the welds on the outside down and run a new pass along the entire outside. I welded these up first and I am still getting used to the settings on my new (MIG 135) welder. I welded in the crossmember and the front towers this weekend and upped the voltage and saw a big different in the penetration. I'm still a bit of novice when it comes to welding. I planned to also bring the frame to a buddy of mine who is far more skilled than I am and have him check and reinforce my welds with his TIG before I even moved the body over. Anyway, I guess i'm looking for confirmation of the notch, should the notch sit directly over where the old rear axle sat? The white mark in one of the pics above is the original centerline location, so if this is the case, my notch needs to move back? I'm not in front of the car, but I can measure and verify what the distance from the rear of the frame to the notch is. Thanks again guys!
Get a tape measure, tape it to the front U joint and pull it back to the center line of the rear axle, now swing the tape measure up into the rear notch, center the c notch on the center line of the measurement you took from front U joint to axle center line, that should do it.
It shouldn't be too hard to slide under your 54 and get some exact measurements but it is going to be damned close to centered on the rubber bump stop that is on the frame below the notch in the photo.
Timmyd gave you a number from the front and I gave you one from the back. How do they match up?. If i remember correctly the factory bump stop was not directly over the rear [maybe off center 3/8" or so] ,but it wasn't the stock rear end anyway. The top of the knotch should be wide enough to give you some wiggle room.
Thanks Guys, I welded 'em in last night, I used all the info that I received from the group and then ended up talking to Alex as well, he confirmed my placement, so I guess I'm in good shape, on to the next piece!!
I’m looking into notching my 1940 Desoto coupe and mine has the rubber bumper under the frame as well, which I assumed was the axle center line. Can someone please help me understand why that wouldn’t be the centerline?
Kevin I was just wondering why the rear was hitting with 2 inch blocks? Was it the normal way someone would lower a 53/54 Chevy way back when? I just bought a 53 and it has 2 inch blocks and this is my first Chevy in this vintage.
KC Bel air if I were you I would tac everything in place where you want it and have the friend with more experience do the final welding. These parts are not something to be learning to weld on.
I’m still a bit confused as to why the rubber bumper stops would not work the centerline. Is it because you had previously replaced the rear with a different one?
If I’m not mistaken, Bump stops on these actually hit a perch that is welded on the front half of the rear axel. Using the rubber mount as center point would actually put it 2-2.5 inches off.
I’m with GordonC on this. Others may have different experience, but 135 amp mig is not enough machine to weld that thickness of frame component. I think even 150 amp is on the small side. Glad your buddy is going to double check your work and use his Tig to correct. Safety first.
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