Customs 1954 Chrysler Windsor Deluxe Newport

I haven't posted here for a long time. I just picked up a 1954 Chrysler Windsor Deluxe Newport two-door hardtop. It will eventually become kustom, but first I need to get it running. I have a 1977 Thunderbird to sell and a 1960 Chrysler to sell so I have funds to build this new project. So far I plan to remove the 383 Golden Lion from my '60 and install it in the '54, I want to maximize my dollar spent in getting the drive train installed and I wonder about updating the rear end and front suspension so that I can have disc brakes compared to just restoring the stock brakes. I don't have much experience in what would work best and be spending my money wisely in the first steps of getting my project running and driving. I'm open to suggestions and your experiences in upgrading drivetrain and suspension affordably also taking into consideration the ease of finding parts for future repairs.

 

If you really want disk in the front, I'm pretty sure there's a kit made by Scarebird or AAJ that will bolt to your spindles for that. The stock drums have that dual wheel cylinder setup and I guess I can understand why you'd want to swap it out, they can be a pain and new cylinders are like $60 each. The car already has IFS, other than replacing worn parts in it, I'd see no reason to completely swap it out.

Personally I'd keep the rear leaf springs and just find a rearend with the appropriate width and bolt pattern. Maybe an early 9" or 8" Ford. Mustang/Maverick might be a good place to check. The stock rears in these things have the drums attached to the hubs on a tapered axle shaft with a keyway and can be a real bear to pull apart, so again, I can see why you'd want to replace it, plus the lack of available gear ratios for the stock rearend.

 

I would take the complete engine and trans with the rearaxle from the 60.
Would allso look if the backingplates from the 60 fits the spindels on the 54
to upgrade the brakes.

 

check out rustyhope.com also. Believe they sell the kit with the custom brackets you need for about $250.
Then give a list of parts to finish it, you can pickup from your local parts store.

 

The front suspensions on Mopars of that era drive really well if they are in good condition. Upgrading the brakes to discs is a good idea. As for the rear axle, if the ‘60 Chrysler has the parking brake in the rear drums, I would suggest using it.....if it does not, look at a bit later MOPAR for a rear axle.

The ‘54 Chrysler Newport is a really nice looking car and should make you a great Cruiser.

Ray

 

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I'm trying to remove the drum so I can measure the spindle for a disc brake conversion. Do I need a puller for this? These are stuck tight.

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Thanks. Their prices seem better than a couple other sources.

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Thank you. Do you think the stock front suspension could hold up to having a 383 Golden Lion mounted to stock frame? I worry about the weight of the v8.

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The rearend has the emergency brake on the driveshaft. I wondered about using the 60 transmission, but it's push button and I didn't know if that would be a problem if I put it into the 54.

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Mike.....nice car........the front drums should just pull straight off once the nut is removed, maybe the shoes are stuck to the drum, try a moderate tapping around the drum with a hammer.....do the drums spin or are they stuck fast?..........as for a disc conversion..........there was a long discussion regarding this on a early 50's Chrysler a few months ago on the P15-D24 Forum.........I'd strongly suggest you join it as there are some very knowledgeable guys there.........anyway as for the disc conversion, from memory the upshot was that I think that the stub axles are different between the Plymouth/Dodge front end and the Chrysler one..........however we found that the Plymouth upper inner & upper A arm would swap allowing the Plymouth spindle and stub axle to fit for which there IS various disc brake adaptions made............as for the rear end I'd swap out the complete rear axle for a late model one, ie, one with the parking brake built into the drums and with easily removable drums............the mopar rear ends with a tapered axle drum and the large centre nut require a VERY LARGE PULLER...the biggest you can find, unless you are doing a 100% resto then swap the whole rear axle.........also what steering setup does the car have?........the weight on the stock front suspension will be fine, I have a 318 Poly in my 1940 Dodge with essentially the same front suspension as your Chrysler, and the same cast iron Toqueflite as you have but I modified a Valiant shifter to operate the push button cable, tho' personally I'd use a later engine & alloy trans, but mines been in the 40 Dodge since 1973........lol....... ..regards, Andy Douglas

 

Thank you. Great info. I'll check out that other forum. Good to know about the front suspension strength concerns.

 

Mike .The front brakes should come off if they are backed off. The rear brakes you will need a puller .I know I needed one for my 56 Chrysler Windsor. Bruce.

 

Mike.You need the old fashion puller for your rear brakes.Bruce.

 

To get away from the tapered hub on the rear, you will need a 1965 or newer Chrysler product rear end. There are also several other brands of late model rear ends that will fit in your car with little or no modification.

You might be farther ahead to sell that 60 as a running driver (if its still one) and buy a 64 or newer motor & trans for the 54. Chrysler made a lot of changes between 62-65, and sometimes interchangeability info is pretty sketchy. It may, or may not be easy to change your current trans for a more modern one on that 383. The Golden Lion 383s were good motors, the transmissions had room for improvement. Gene

 

You guys are a wealth of knowledge. Thank you for sharing your experiences and opinions. It's helping me sort out how to get started. Keep it coming.

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You cannot use a 'newer' trans with any pre-62 B&RB engine as the crank flange is completely different from post-62 engines. Unless you change the crankshaft you are stuck with the trans.
I strongly recommend searching craigslist for a newer 440/TF if you really need/want some big inches. Plenty of motorhome units turn up.
Since you ask about the weight, I'll assume that you do not have an engine in the car now. No worries, the front suspension is up to the job and replacement springs are available if needed.
Look at the Explorer for a rear axle. Your local pik-n-pull should have plenty of them.

.

 

Weight wise, you will be fine since that car had a Hemi originally!

 

I used a scarebird conversion kit on my 1940 desoto. What engine is currently in the car?

 

I ended up finding a Chevy 350 and Transmission for my Chrysler. I plan on getting the front disc conversion for the front. I'm figuring on changing the rearend, I want disc on the rear also. The stock rear measures 53.5" from backing plate to backing plate, the stock rear that I have now is open drive, it seems a Ford 9" rear would fit just fine. Curious on everyone's thoughts on the matter. I'm piecing things together little by little. I really appreciate the insight. Thanks.

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Engine and trans need rebuilding.

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Hello all. Front suspension questions. I'm planning on buying a disc brake conversion kit from RustyHope.com unless someone can recommend another source or parts from another car. I'm looking for an updated rearend with disc brakes, I've read recommendations about using Ford Explorer rearend my stock rear measures 54.5" from backing plate to backing plate. A friend suggested a few days days ago that we install a rack and pinion on the front end. That's not something I considered and even thought was possible. I'd appreciate any insight and first hand experience from those of you that have done this before and what type of rack and pinion would best fit and work on my car. I suppose I need to figure a new steering box as well. Does come along with choosing the right rack and pinion? Thank you all for your input. This is my first time putting a car together to this extent. I'm seeking help from everyone and anyone. Thanks again.

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Here is a shot of the front suspension.

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It looks like you have a ‘monster’ power steering unit in there! Is it interfering with the Chevy 350 when you trial fitted the engine? If not, or the interference can be dealt with, I’d suggest you keep the stock steering for now. Or, find an original manual steering box. Making too many changes at the same time, especially when one is new to the ‘game’, can easily become a slippery slope to becoming frustrated and an unfinished project as a result.

Changing to a rack and pinion presents more problems than initially meet the eye. Steering geometry, turning radius and fabrication of mounting brackets are just the more obvious issues to deal with.

As for disc brakes, the front should be relatively easy. You really don’t NEED rear discs, but if you INSIST on having them, get rear end already so equipped. The Ford Explorer axle is plentiful and most have discs and it is the right width and wheel bolt pattern. By the way, the most useful measurement when discussing axle width is ‘wheel mounting surface’ (aka WMS) to wheel mounting surface or outside to outside. Measuring backing plate distance is not accurate as backing plate offsets and brake drum widths vary quite a bit.

Ray

 

I'd be surprised if the SBChev install didn't clear your original steering although as a Chrysler you have the stock Chrysler bellcrank steering with a pitman arm connected to the drag link then that to the bellcrank inside the front crossmember..........a very similar arrangement to 49-54 Chevs.........lol.......now, even tho' I have had a rack & pinion in my 1940 Dodge for over 40yrs I would try to use the original steering setup as much as possible as changing to a rack & pinion brings with it not only good things BUT a range of complications that from the sound of it you are not that familar with and would be better not finding out about just yet.......lol..........when you check with Rusty Hope make sure they are aware that you have a Chrysler, NOT a Dodge or Plymouth and ideally I'd suggest you remove a front brake backing plate and clean up, measure and take pics of the stub axle so Rusty Hope can be sure of what you have..........as Hnstray mentions use the wheel mounting face to face measurement when comparing rear ends as that is a much more accurate and standardised measurement........nice car BTW, here in Oz we never got anything other than 4dr sedans and certainly not proper Chryslers only badge engineered Plymouth based cars..........lol...........regards, Andy Douglas.

 

Thank you for your input. I'm asking tons of questions and running through many options before pulling the trigger on building. I haven't trial fitted the 350 yet, I'm sure there is plenty of room as you stated. I did wonder if rack and pinion would be a useful upgrade.

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Thank you as well. Looks I may stray away from rack and pinion. I don't need anymore issues added to this build. I truly appreciate all the info.

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Just sharing photos.

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How you making out with that build? I have same car 1950 windsor newport with straight axle front end, 340, 5 speed.
Next is an axle swap, searching for stock WMS dimension. My flange to flange is 55 3/4”, so i’m curious if your’s is narrower or I fudged measuring.

 

I used Rusty Hope stuff on my 50 Plymouth. No problems.


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