Projects my first model t project a tudor sedan delivery

i am gathering parts and equipment, knowledge and cash to start my first model t project a sedan delivery im looking at a 110 inch wheelbase for a stock body full fendered car like the one in my avatar well not exactly hehe

 

Let us know when you start on it. Sounds intriguing!

 

i will, i will begin looking in earnest for a body on jan 1 2018

 

there is a swap meet in north georgia a couple of times a year i hear its huge but cant recall the name does anyone know the one im talking about

 

Tell us more. Why such a long wheel base? I have a T/A project. I wanted full fenders on an A chassis with T fenders. Now I understand why you don't see that much. How you plan to pull this off? What fenders and running boards are you planning to use?
The Wizzard

 

Im not sure if this is new info however on a Model
A delivery the rear side window opening is a different length than the Tudor sedan, it's a dead giveaway to one that's been converted and an original. I'm unsure if this was relevant with a T delivery.

 

I need to see a good photoshop of the car with a hood that is 10 inches longer. First car I ever had was a '26 Tudor, always like seeing 26-27 projects, good luck with yours. Bob

 

I guess you are going to use a custom frame with that wheelbase.
When i started to build my T i allready have the mainparts.
So i used 2x4 woodlogs as a sort of frame.
First i put the rearaxle where i wanted it to the body.
Then i put in the motor where i wanted that to the body.
I did not have the radiator or grilleshell but used a tractorgrille from the scrapepile in front.
Whatever whats around will due for that. And then i placed the frontwheels where i wanted.
When all was adjusted where i wanted things i could measure and made a blueprint for my frame.
Then i taked a picture and used as my desktop background for a while to be sure it was right.
I allso looked problaby at tousands pictures on internet to determine what i liked and not on
the model T coupe hotrods thats where out there. You need to look at sedans.
Here is a thread with fullfendered model T:s of all models.
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/full-fendered-t-s-thread-official-maybe.787861/

 

as i said i dont actually have a body yet and untill i do i wont build the frame but i have a measurement of 84 inches for the length from the windshield to the rear of the car and a cowl length which i dont have a measurement for thats between 14 and 16 inches a 26 inch hood aproximately 4 inch radiator support thats 130 on the long side 128 if i go with the shorter cowl length i have again i dont have a car to measure but i look at pics and the rear axle seems to set right under where the rear window line is and that is abou 20 inches now i do know that most t s were 100 inches but i dont know the original wb of a sedan delivery i am going to set the body on the frame unchannelled and i am trying to get as small of a hump in the floorboard as possible also just because i think it will be all around cheaper and easier to get exhaust i was leaning towards a small block chevrolet so i need a little space for the distributor at the rear i know the starting wb length for a tbucket is 104 for this setup and i assume to get the floor mostly flat i need about 6 more inches .
all that being said i know that wb seems long but untill i can mock up a real body or measure one it where i am as for fenders i know from reading posts here the t/a look is popular but i kinda like the t/t look so i am gonna go with that and if i have to i will add the length into the running boards it would seem the only place to do it
if anyone has suggestions on the length of the wb given my parameters please tell me i may not do it the way you would but it is my first rodeo and i can use all the input i can get

 

thanks anders that thread will be helpfull i havent read it yet but will today i have done what you are talking about with the 2 by four frame and although i dont have a body i do have a glass tbucket body 23t that i used for the mockup and a fullsize cutout i made from henry prints off the internet i have been intending on building a tbucket but changed my mind about 6 months ago and decided on the full fendered car i really like the look and i want something i can drive in the winter or in the rain
i will have a decision on a motor by january and will have atleast a block and tranny case for mockup then and it will all get real serious untill then i dont have a hard number on the wheel base
can i ask what yours ended up being?

 

first i heard of that but im ok with a regular tudor i just want the door in back of the car and no window in the rear quarter im not positive yet but i may smooth that quarter window flush with the lower part of the body panel

 

My ended up at 108. But my is channeled so i had to put my radiator behind front crossmember.
The cowl is low on T:s and i wanted my grilletop to below top of firewall. that give me 4 extra inch.
I did use a temporary crossmember until the engine was mounted.
Then i could mock up my radiator and determine where the crossmember needed to be.

 

at the bottom center of this car there is a pan between the fenders i never see on cars is that a stock piece and whats it called if it is in modern terms i would call it a lower rear valance panel but she aint modern

 

AndersF is giving very wise advice.

I mocked up my Tudor with 2x4s for a "frame" & cardboard tires & it exposed issues I'd never thought of before.

 

nice ride anders and from what i can tell im within 3 to 4 inches of where i want to be and only a mockup will tell me for sure

 

hey anders what size material is your frame made of

 

im not sure what you meant but im not adding length to the stock hood on my car if anything i would move the radiator back a bit and stretch the cowl but it may be much less than 10 inches i wont know until i have the body i have also toyed with adding a couple of inches after the rear quarter window to lengthen the actual body (to me as long as it doesnt destroy the look and lines would be the best option)
but again all that may not be necessary and if i can get away without it i will

 

whats the consensus on rear springs i can go with the original spring or 2 coil over shocks like a tbucket i have heard the single spring setup is bouncy remember this is a daily drive and needs to be safe at interstate speeds thats 70mph herei will be using a 4 link v geometry to actually hold the rear where it needs to be

 

what issues gary i might have not seen them yet

 

I guess the pan is for looks. It could be that if its a real delivery it could had been a footstep there.
My frame is metric size but close to 2x4 and 3/16 walls.
Coilover give you less unspring wheight wich is better for comfort.
How bouncy the ride is gonna be would problaby be set by your limited springtravel.
You just gonna have 4-6 total springtravel to get the look right anyway.
But you could problaby build a lower setup with traverse spring.
There tons of stuff you might not seen yet and some you could findout with a mock up.
How do you want the floor in the back? Can you achive that with that suspension you want.
Steering setup? Draglink or cross steer? Where to put the gastank and battery? You need a defroster
and wipers. How to route the exhaust. Automatic or manual trans?
Floormounted or hanging pedals?
I have read tons of buildthreads that ended after the frame got axels, motor and body mounted.
Then put on hold couse the life are getting in way.
Its when the frame and body is done it start to take some time. All the small things that
need to work well to get the car functional.

 

the frame will raise at the rear 8 inches and i will raise the floor to match that battery under in that same area near the rear end and the gas tank i was thinking of putting under that piece of metal i was asking about something along the lines of ten gallons the suspension i have chosen will fit the parameters i just listed going with the steering rod on the left outer side of the frame and a rod across to the other wheel i believe thats cross steer
now defroster and wipers and also ac i am going to change the dash completely bring it into the cab 3-4 inches more like a modern car and run a defrost duct robbed from a newer car and mated to a custom made blower box in the cowl i will also mount a modified wiper setup from a jeep cj into the cowl area or in the area over the windshield the windshield is going to be solid mount non moveable
automatic tranny with overdrive
exhaust im not positive how they are routed but i do see them under car and exiting the rear i like that with engine hugging manifolds single exhaust is fine with me
no decision yet on pedals as i dont know how much hump from the trans i will have i prefer hanging but havent decided yet
2 years ago when i decided i was going to build a car i bought a book over the internet by chester greenhalgh how to build a budget hotrod or tbucket it has a lot on frames steering and general chassis setup i also have been reading constantly for that time and have a pretty good idea of what i want to do there are details i cant work out until i have a car to mock up but i have been thinking and borrowing pieces of ideas from others for over 2 years
i asked about your frame because that is what i was intending to use but im concerned it might not be strong enough for a full body car

 

a four door body will give you the length you need to keep it looking stubby.

 

so the four doors are longer or shorter?

 

Sounds like you've come up with a plan and built it in your head. That's all good. One thing I know for sure is there is no set rules or instructions. That's all good too. As far as the different T body's they all share the same exact Chassis. Same goes for the Model A series. My 27 R-PU is on a stock wheel base Model A chassis. This reqired 6" added to running board and splash apron. The stock T hood is now to short in stock form.
The Wizzard

 

I'll just add here that with rear fenders mounted is stock relations to body this is about as low as you can get a T. This frame has a 3" kick in the rear with a 5 leaf Model A rear spring. I think y0ur plan for a large rear kick should be re thought.
The Wizzard

 

what drop are you using on the front axle and did you use the stock spring set up there?

 

do you have any transmission tunnel in your car?

 

Building my car fenderless gives me a lot of freedom as to the dimensions so I just put it together so that it would look right. With fenders, I think that sticking closer to Ford's plan would be more appropriate. Maybe look for a Revell model of John Buttera's T sedan for ideas.

 

hehe like mike tyson said everyone has a plan till they get hit lol

 

i think i have a picture of that saved good idea