well hello out there , my fellow H.A.M.B. Readers . I am slowing coming along with my 56 dodge c3 truck build /restoration Project... I am contemplating a rear end swap for better fwy crusing and to up grade to rear disc brakes , . I read about some using a 1990 jeep Cherokee rear end .. Was wondering if anyone has and info or input /ideas On this one . thank you
It depends on how determined you are to have disc brakes. The Cherokees used Dana 35 axles until about '91/'92 or so, then were fitted with Mopar Corporate 8.25 for the remainder of their production, which ended with 2001 models, as I recall. They were all drum brake models. Early Grand Cherokees used the Dana 35 with discs, but the 35 is not the best choice for other reasons. Later Grand Cherokees used an aluminum carrier Dana 44 with discs, but were chronically noisy for several years. Condsidering that the front brakes do about 70% of the braking, discs on the rear, though popular, aren't really necessary. But, if that is a requirement, I'd suggest looking at an Explorer 8.8" rear end, all but the earliest have disc brakes. Common ratios are 3.55, 3.73 & 4.10. I think there may be a 3.27 also, but have not personally seen one in my limited exposure to Explorer rear ends. For non-disc applications, a Mopar 8 3/4" from about '67 up mid and full size models should fit. And, there are a number of 9" Ford axles that would work too. Ray
Very helpful info . Thank you I am not looking to lay a lot of horsepower down . Just looking for nice rear end that will fit nicely, with little or non fab for a daily driver I would consider keeping the stock rear end but I found that the rear shoes replacemets are almost non existent, And hard to incorporate a rear parking brake set up .. I will try to get off work early and do some measuring
The grand Cherokee disc brakes will easily swap to any other Mopar rear end. So you can put them on a 8 1/4 or 8 3/4 of your choosing. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I have an 8 1/4 from a mid 90s Jeep in my 53 Dodge and it works out great, pretty much a perfect fit. Granted it has drum brakes but the truck stops almost too good with the rear drums combined with discs up front.
Dose any one know the stock bolt pattern for the rear , and gearing , also any thoughts of front suppension . To subframe or no to subframe
The rear bolt pattern is the same as the front and is the same across all the diffs mentioned above - 5 on 4.5. By using a Mopar or ford diff you retain the same wheel bolt pattern - no adaptation required. To sub frame or not is a personnel question - what do you want to achieve? I have seen a rebuild of the front springs incorporating Teflon pads in the springs along with good kingpins and tie rod ends make a vast improvement over the way a truck can ride however if you want a car like ride then sub frame it
Dang...35Desoto types faster than I do... Other than the early Imperial and the newer small cars, Mopar uses the 5 on 4½" bc. This is similar to The FoMoCo except for some variations in the diameter of the center register. The new(er) Jeep and Explorer use the same bolt pattern. If you really need an IFS then look at the GenI Dakota. Very close fit on the Pilot House, not sure about 55-up. .
I am running an 80s Mopar 8 1/4 diff with 3.23 gears with 251 flathead 6 and 4 spd T 98 trans. Low rpms at 60 mph. It was an easy install, driveshaft has yoke welded on to accommodate u-joint for the diff, and the bendix 10 inch brakes are nice too..
Dakota is the way to go, if you sub frame it. They are very close if you want to do a full frame swap as well. This is a buddys 58 on a full Dakota frame. Worked very well. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Any chance you know if your buddy had to shorten the frame at all? I have a 59 D100 and am thinking about putting it on a Dakota frame too! Any info you have would be appreciated!
Milt, The 1987-1996 Dakota frame is available in 3 wheel base lengths, the standard cab, short box is the shortest at 112" (I believe). Then there there is the standard cab, long box, at 116", I believe, then there is the extended cab short box at 132", I believe. The newer Dakotas also have a crew cab short box, but I have no idea what that wheel base is. The wheel base is very easy to shorten, between the wheels the frame is straight and level. The frame extends 12" behind the rear leaf spring mounts, its very east to trim the frame overhang to what ever length you need. Pictured is a 91 Dakota standard cab, long box frame, front view and rear view. Gene
surprised nobody suggested the ford explorer 8.8 rear end. Many gear ratio to choose from, factory disk brakes and the mods to fit it would be relocate spring perch's and ujoint. You can just grind the perches off the rear end, tractor supply sell new ones cheap. Just locate and weld as needed. When you get the donor rear axle, grab all the emergency brake cables and connections. You can mount it to your frame and modify the connection on the end to connect to your stock brake handle. It also shares same bolt pattern as dodge, jeep, ford, amc so will be same as front. Simple swap and done a lot on older dodges.
It was mentioned earlier. I am in the middle of an Explorer swap for my '54 Dodge pickup. The face to face measurement says the Explorer is 2 1/2" narrower than the stock Dodge. Aftermarket wheels are in the plans and they will be configured for the narrower differential. No problems so far other than my bad knees slow things down.
What mopar did you get the 8 1/4 from? I have a 48 with 251 and 3 spd. I have a dakota with 3.21 and thought maybe I could use it but was concerned about off the line in first gear. Any advice? thanks Lee
You have to watch the early 90's Dakotas as they have an odd size 6 lug bolt pattern. I bought a 92 as a suspension donor for my 48 and Steve quit making the cross members before I got one. That one was a 4 banger with the wimpy trans and rear axle too.
88-90 Dakota had 5 on 4 1/2" wheel bolt pattern. You could get a 7 1/4 or an 8 1/4, geared anywhere between a 2:45 and a 3:55 gear. A limited slip was an option. The 91-96 all had 6 bolt on 4 1/2" bolt pattern, axle choice and gear choice were the same, and a limited slip was still an option. In the late 90s a 6 bolt on 4 1/2" pattern 9 1/4 was offered. I have only seen a 3:21 or 3:55 gear choice, and a limited slip was an option. 2 wd drive Dakota's had the axle mounted above the leaf springs, 4x4 Dakota's had the axle mounted under the leaf springs. Gene
The first gen Durango often had 9.25” rear axles with as low as 3.92 on certain equipment combos. In my opinion, based on some experience with both 8.25 and 9.25, the latter is way overkill for your project. The 9.25 is pretty m***ive and represents a lot of unstrung weight. In a light weight pickup truck that is not very desirable. Ray
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