Technical '36 Ford front floor 'humps'?

Hey guys, does anyone know why the floor would rise up then level off just in front of the door pillar on a '36 Ford? I'm about to fabricate the toe board areas on my 3-window and have found this 'hump' in the inner flange of the body shell on both sides.





It's made up from 3 layers of sheetmetal and looks to have been formed in that shape. There was no front floorpan in the coupe when I got it, so I don't know what line the floor would have originally followed.

Just wondering whether I should cut out and rework those areas to work with my new floor, and give me a smoother transition into the toeboard area, or did Henry (or Edsel) put them there for a reason that I'm missing?



Thanks in advance for any input....

Bear

 

Bear, I just schlepped outside to the shop in nothing but a robe and slippers just to take pic's for you! Unfortunately the floor I cut out is in the barn so will have to wait till morn for picks of that. Anyway, all the '36's I have seen have the same "humps".
Mine are not as pronounced as yours but still evident, plan is to flatten it out flush to frame...............................

 

The original floor curved up there and then down again in that area where it was then bent again in a flange where the wooden toe boards attached. Tough to make out in the pictures; but you can kinda see the shape if look at the edge of the drivers side where it bolts down to the X memeber in the second pic. Probably not needed with your new flat floors.

 

Hey Lon, thanks heaps for your efforts to get the pictures, I really appreciate them (tho' your neighbors may not feel the same!) I'm thinking the same on flattening them out, but was a bit concerned that they may have been there for a reason that would come back and bite me in the ass at a later stage Now I can proceed with my original plan!

Cheers, Bear

 

gentle heat,tap it down with a hardwood block

 

Thanks for the pics, Rich. That's exactly how I imagined the original floors must have been. Pretty sure I will now rework them to flatten the front floors. I had been toying with doing the toe-board area with wood as kinda' per original, but I think I will go ahead and make them out of sheetmetal for strength and durability.

Cheers, Bear

 

Since my car still had the original floors I tried to to keep it sorta stockish with a home-made removable trans cover and wood toeboards.

 

my`36 has all stock floors with wood toeboards like Rich's so the hump is there. even has the stock transmission cover with the shifter hole filled

as said , if you are going with steel flat floors the hump would not be needed

 

Thanks for the replies guys!
So I decided to cut out the offending 'humps' and replace with a flat section. The original piece was made up of 3 layers of sheetmetal, formed to the shape then spotwelded together, so it wasn't going to pound flat without causing some major distortion to the lower cowl. I made up the new sections from 1/8" plate and welded them in place. I will fully weld the underside next time the body comes off.











Now I can proceed and finish my trans hump and toeboards.

Bear

 

what about the rubber pads between the floor and frame?

 

'35-'36 doesn't use rubber pads like '37 up cars; instead they use a combination of rubber and rubberized cork strips on the frame and X rails.