Got some work done on my SubRail section at the rear frame step. These pieces are essentially the new rear section of my subrail that will connect directly to the inside of the rear quarters. I will seam seal the once they’re installed and be able to self tap screw or weld them to the new floor structure once everything is mated. Amazing what good tools will allow you to accomplish in short time. My templates Drivers side filler Passenger side filler Removed Drivers side subrail filler section Removed Passenger side subrail filler section Drivers side subrail filler dry fit Passenger side filler dry fit The rear filler just dry fit also, this will be the base/floor for my fuel tank. I relieved the areas of the gussets to act as possible chases for wiring or anything else I may need them for. I cannot mount this until the floor structure is installed and I proceed with the floor itself. I read about two years ago on a thread (I wish I could remember which one) a H.A.M.B. member said “Remember this, If you can make something out of cardboard, you can make it out of metal.” That has resinated with me and I often find myself repeating it in my mind while working on my car. Thank you to whoever spoke those words ! Mike L. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Very nice work . When all installed it sealed , it will be dryer and stronger than the stock unit . Blue
“Epic” as in extremely long and no end in sight - yes, yes it is Mike L. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Out of Curiosity, anyone keen on what this wheel belonged too ? It’s 17” and has a 3/4” splined mount. Fit perfectly on my F1 Steering shaft. Makes no difference really, because I like it. Just curious. Thanks. Mike L. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I’ve looked but haven’t found anything similar Here’s an additional photo Mike L. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
That wheel is really nice. IF you have any questions about where to get cardboard, talk to Ben Leblanc ! Sent from my iPad using H.A.M.B.
I got a super deal on the wheel because the owner didn’t know what it was from. So he let it go cheap. works for this guy ! Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Got the steering shaft cut down and welded true today. Shortened the column and got the wheel in place with the modified F1 drop. Wheel is 3” from the dash. Looks like I’ll have a good view of the gauges with the way it lined up. Hopefully the seat position will also fall into place. Mike L. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Outer edge of the wheel is 5” from the inside panel of the door. Mike L. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Reworked the cowl feet after I wrapped up the wheel. Had to make them work with the channeled floor so I cut them in a few spots and added some pieces to make them work with the original rivet holes in the firewall and mount to the new floor structure. Now I can get to work on the toe panel area. Onward Mike L. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Back at it ... cut down my Repop 32 shell to work with the 2” channel. According to my angle finder my hood as it sits would be at 3° which is what my frame is at at ride height. To me that makes sense ... anyone have any input on that number ? Seems to flow smooth but not having a hood on it it’s kinda hard to tell. Thanks Mike L. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
The hood will have a little more rake than the beltline... the test ; Set a stock hood on a big table, block it so the rear top looks right L TO R, and the bottom edge flat on the table... with even blocking under the F and R hinge rod you should see how much rake is built into the hood... decrease the front blocking till the top looks right.... the difference in the F and R blocking is how much rake is needed...HIH...
Thanks guys. Makes perfect sense. I’ll hold off fitting the lower sections for the lower bolts to the radiator and shell band until I have the radiator. I want to get the chopped 32 radiator on order so I wanted to get the grill shell where it needs to be. Hoping the standard 2” chopped radiator fits as it comes. I’m prepared to have one modified if needed. Mike L. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Take some of your card board and fold it over like the top of a hood and see what you like . Will give you a good idea . Next mounts I will be building an Al. hood for mt 29 . Should be fun . Can’t wait to use my new louvre press . Onward through the fog . Blue
I forget sometimes the things I have kicking around ... forgot I had a fiberglass hood that came with my car. at this position the shell has to come down 1/2” Not sure the length of the stock hood but looks like I may need to extend it a few inches. Onward Mike L. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Trying to avoid buying an aftermarket hood ... so I’ll be looking into my options as I go along. Thanks guys. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
I saw the louvre press you built. Very impressive. Like to find someone local to add some to my hood before paint. Mike L. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Wonder what I can do with this ... feeebie hood from a friend. He thought it was from a Nash. It’s for a Model A. Mike L. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
You can trade it to me so I can hoard it for years and eventually build another salt nosed car around it.
Guess what I need ... I looked at it for 2 minutes and said nope. I don’t need another huge project. I’ll buy one. It’s all yours Pat. Then again... do you need another project ? Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
The Jalopy Journal
