Projects DRAG SNAKE "Vintage Terror!"

This is getting GOOD

 

Well I am not a FORD a guy. I have never been one. I own a Ford F150 that I love but when it comes to working on them or building them I have absolutely no experience. Now in reality there is not a ton of big differences Ford and Chevy small blocks pretty much work the same just a few parts and pieces in different places etc. However when it comes to the little things, you know the things you take for granted like, alternator brackets, water pumps, pulley placements, etc. etc....well I am sort of lost. I got even more lost looking at parts warehouses online for the missing pieces. I found they gave me more questions than I thought I had. Like what direction is the water pump spinning? What? LOL.... etc. etc. etc.

So after spending quite a bit of time online this weekend shopping for all the stuff that is still MIA for the little Ford, I decided to give up. I called Ford Racing this morning and told them what I had, what I was doing, and asked what I needed. They gave me killer list all with Ford Part numbers to go chase down. They said I could get 90 percent of it from just about any performance parts house but recommended Don Wood Ford. They said just google the part numbers and I would see Don's prices would be 15 to 20 percent or more less expensive. So I did an they were right.


So for you part number guys that might be interested in the Ford Stuff here is the list:
Front Timing Cover: M-6059-D351
Time Chain Set True Roller HP: M-6268-B302
Rear Deep Sump Pan: M-6675-DRS302
Pick Up Tube: M-6622-DRS302
High Volume Oil Pump: M-6600-D2
High Volume Pump Rod: M-6605-B302
HO Water Pump: M-8501-F351
Aluminum Pulley Set: M-8509-CM
Head Gasket Set: M6051-R351
Starter: M11000-B51
Thrust Plate: M-6269-A351
Neutral Balance Dampner: M-6316-D302
Crank Pulley Spacer: M-8510-D351
Head Gaskets: M-6051-R351
AND I snagged a 140 amp 1-wire Alternator and Chrome relocation bracket kit
Both were from Powermaster.

So that task is done and everything is on the way!

 

Gotta admit I'm pretty jealous of this project. Can't wait to see it all finished.

 

Okay lets talk about rear suspension. Here is what I am planning so let me know what you think. I was about to order a set of QA1 coil overs out back a few weeks ago so I was sort of on the drawing board estimating travel and spring weight etc. Then I had an epiphany if you will regarding the situation.

Now, when I hand built the ladder bars for the Austin, I did quite a bit of research (as usual). The most intelligent article I found was about using only one ladder bar (because as the article pointed out that is all you need). Of course that was totally "Greek" to me as on the surface that seemed totally crazy. Especially because we were working towards a coil over suspension and it just didn't seem like I would have enough mounting points back there. After we moved forward and decided on a quarter eliptic rear spring system, that article played over and over in my mind, especially with the limited room we had under the Austin (but the bars were already built and in place). Then of course we got schooled on the quarter elliptic being mounting above the rear axle line (ie: the Mexican Jumping Bean Version of Dragnasty that still bounces around the You Tube World even today)....LMAO.

But we did get a very good education and if there is one thing I totally understand at this point that would be a quarter elliptic rear suspension set up. I mean for a short wheel base car, the old Austin hooked hard and went straight every time. The only time it didn't was its last outing when tried to fix something that was not broken etc. MORE EDUCATION. So all that being said...that is where we are headed on the rear of the Cobra.

First off I have another set of Posie Super Glide Quarter Elliptic Springs on the way. Now here is where the single ladder bar system really comes into play. According to that article the closer the ladder bar is to the drive shaft the more effective the single ladder system is. That is perfect for a Cobra because you basically have an under-slung chassis, there is no room on the outer areas of the chassis to run a classic 42" ladder bar system. In fact someone on here a few pages back warned that I better look at where the back of the seats go because there is no room for long ladder bars. AND they are correct. However in the tunnel between the seats there is room for both a drive shaft and a ladder bar! Sneaky.

So that is the plan. We are working on a bracket system that will allow us to practically mount the ladder bar to the center section and then run it right up the tunnel along side the shaft. We are kicking around running two of them right together on one side for extra strength or even running two of them, one on either side of the shaft but still both tucked into the tunnel area etc. Then we will use the Watts Link to position the rear end and then QA1 adjustable shocks (no coil overs)....What do you think?

 

Sounds like a torque arm system like used on the Camaros.

 

Anything new to somone is gonna be trial and error, you had your share with the Austin, let's hope just a little of each on this one Randal.
Myself, I like the idea of twin inboard ladder bars, a little extra insurance in case something like a rod end breaking. Just have to make sure the pivot points don't fight the arc of the springs, or vice versa. May need a slider system, I think you did this on the Austin towards the end if I'm not mistaken.
A lack of success won't be because you cut corners on the components.
Now the fun starts!

 

I think if you use two ladder bars say on either side of the drive shaft you will not have any articulation in the rear end only up and down movement.

 

Sounds like a torque tube as used by Henry Ford. Except your driveshaft is outside the torque component instead of inside.

What are you going to use to keep one wheel from pulling that end of the axle forward? Henry used radius rods triangulated with the torque arm/tube. Maybe you could hang yours down low (under the seats and floor) and triangulate them to the front of your arm.

 

Quarter Eliptic Springs

 

Springs are springy. And usually have shackles on the ends. And the arc won't be the same as the long torque arm.

 

Actually I think that is the plan. At least that was always the plan on the Austin. Transfer the "articulation" to the chassis.

 

So you’re saying you’re having a ball [emoji848]


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Understood as I went through all the math on the Austin. We actually had 60" ladder bars on it so it had a huge arc if you drew it out. It was a giant circle and I was worried about the same thing. However in reality, the rear end only moved a few inches up and down. So even though it was huge arc, when you only look a few inches of it, it is hardly noticeable. So the shackles will over come the tiny difference. See the below the video. The Austin with the new Posie Super glides on and checking to make sure nothing binds etc.

 

Remember how the Austin got twisted up tilted and we talked about a HD anti roll bar.

 

Yep...but it went straight as a string twisted up or not. Then after the Meltdowns we addressed it with cross bar and added a spring to the right rear shock. Went to the HAMB DRAGS and it was all kinds of sideways through 1st and 2nd in both lanes. Before round three we thrashed to rip all the additions off. It went straight and hard again but would not shift into 4th at the top end. Lol...


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Yes I think that is a safe assumption...LOL! AND...I found a chrome ring for the boot...now we are ready! Forget all the fab work that needs to be done, if I can just sit in the shell and hold the shifter all is well. Man if I could just get a steering wheel for this sucker I would be in hog heaven! I mean it is one thing to pretend know how she sounds and shifts but I really want to know how she is going to pretend handle! LMAO!

 

Another Fun Read:

 

A repro of that steering wheel would be cool.

 

This purely falls under the "food for thought" category.
When I was looking at shift boots for my roadster I considered the Cobra repop versions but they looked too short to work, and as you can see I needed the shift handle to "dog leg" too. The boots' offset can go right, left, forward or back.
I only bring this up in case you end up with additional positioning issues.
Before I got that far I found this one, not sure but I think it is a discontinued Mr. Gasket item, found hanging on a hook in the corner of a local speed shop.
It came with a cheesy trim plate that I didnt like so I made my own trim ring, it also needed to sit higher so I also had to get creative there too.
I won't go into detail unless pressed.

 

That cut-away drawing in the road test article, gives you a nice reference as to engine placement and some space concerns.

 

Posies are on the way....

 

I know.....LOL I thought the same thing when I saw that article but I have never seen a wheel like it. There are plenty of Cobra steering wheels out there and all of them three spoke but none quite like the photo. It took about 2 hours of searching today (mainly for ACE Bristol parts) before I stumbled on this thing...

And I found an AC horn button to install as well...

They are on their way!

 

This is going to be too cool! I only wish I could have a ride when its finished. Small car, big motor, manual shift, it is what car dreams are made of !!!

 

I was pretty excited to find that steering wheel but to be honest it seemed silly to have to look that hard for one. Personally, I really never paid that much attention to them until I saw the road and track article I added earlier. Here is the crazy thing. Most of the "Cobra" steering wheels out there are $350 to $400. Their straight spoke style has become standardized by the aftermarket and replica companies (much the same as side pipes) and John "Q" Public, including me simply never question it. However after finding the above wheel, it was well under half the price. Nearly 65% less than any aftermarket "COBRA" steering wheel out there. Not that I am complaining but I simply had to know why.

So after getting a confirmation on delivery etc. I was able to use that address to track the seller down. I called them and got a really cool guy. I said I just bought the roadster steering wheel and I was surprised to pay well under half price of other wheels that are not even correct for early Cobras. He laughed and said I was the first person to ever call and say anything about it. He appreciated it because he said they designed the wheel for that exact purpose but Shelby would not give them the rights to put their name on it as there were already several official ones out there. Even though those design did not match the original steering wheels. He said even AC refused to allow them to sell them as a Bristol wheel without a huge kick back per unit. So he just gave up and kept selling other wheels. But he felt the the design was so elegant and perfect that he kept it around and it is a fairly popular wheel in Europe but he sells very few to Cobra folks. LOL

 

Well come on down to the Meltdown Drags this year and we will take her for a spin.

 

Well the great thing about fabrication is you can order things in advance and then fabricate around them. As long as you are close and you know how and approximately where you want them to attach. Much easier than building something and then trying to find pieces that fit! So I have been looking for the rear shocks for a bit and finally decided on these QA1 units. First off they match the front coil over system and secondly they are totally adjustable. I am looking forward to playing with them when we finally get 'em on the car! They are 10" compressed and 15" extended. Should be just about what the doctor ordered.

 

And I found this cool wheel adapter this morning that will allow me bolt my fancy new steering wheel to a standard 3 hole mount system etc. It took a while to find a really thin adapter as I am not interested in adding 8" to the end of the steering column etc.

 

Well all of the Cobra stuff (minus the brass over flow tank) rolled in this morning. This cowl hoop is the thing I am most excited about. It came straight from the chassis department at Shell Valley. Now it may not fit our body perfectly but it has to be very close. It will hopefully take care of several issues that with out it we are in the dark about.

First off it is set of for the windshield frame mount so hopefully no fabrication there. Secondly it is set up for the door hinge hardware as well. Plus it has mounting area for the glovebox and the dash. SOOoooo....Hopefully this little jewel is going to give us a leg up. I can't wait to get it home tonight and stick it up under the cowl and see how close it is etc. Stay tuned!