Hot Rods Trying to set lash the proper way on a SBC 350!

Ok, assuming i actually get this pushrod length settings verified...i will need to order new rockers anyway since number 1 exhaust rocker is gouged. Do i need to order the same 1.52 rockers? Or do i need to figure out the rod length to see what rocker needs to be ordered...

 

What about the second part of that post

 

How do the other pushrods look? Is there any damage to a pushrod end or the pushrod socket of any other rocker arm? Is there even the slightest hint of interference that means another p/r will fail? The socket in that rocker doesn’t look that horrible, you might be able to dress the rough edges up and use it.
If my assumption that you have a hydraulic roller cam that has 7.300 pushrods and the other 15 look good then buy a correct (again, it sounds like it will be a 7.300, which is +.100 over stock) replacement, put it in and set the valves as has been described and run it. There has to be someone nearby that can accurately measure a pushrod for you, or at the very least take a good p/r and compare it to a stock, roller cam SBC pushrod. If the stock p/r is just a touch less than 1/8” shorter then yours is a 7.300.
See if you can get the guy from NAPA to come over and take a look at the rocker geometry on no.2 exhaust and then check the valve lift at no.2 exhaust and compare that to what you get at no.1 exhaust. If the lift is the same that tells you you do not have a damaged lobe or roller on the lifter. We’re not there to put eyes on things, get someone to help you.

 

Are you talking about the difference in the settings of lash and spinning the rod? Yes it feels different now that i know the feel of a pushrod that has a ball under the rocker arm...compared to one that has been grounded down...i will never make that mistake seeing what a damaged pushrod looks and feels like...not smooth at all. But i do know now that i need to buy an adjustable pushrod to know exactly what pushrod length i need to buy

 

Will do Fordors, i will post the length at least by tomorrow when i get to work...i can at least get our engineer's to give me a precise measurement. I will still try to see if the current pushrods are the correct length also...thank you everyone for at least trying to help me...belive me, its been informative .

 

I'll be back... just watching for results..7.4 pic....

 

I might have missed this....but if you pull the pan to look for pushrod pieces, you might as well pull the timing cover and chain and try to figure out what cam you have in there, then go from there with pushrod length, what type of lifter, rocker arm ratio......

 

Pushrod checking tools --->Hydraulic-roller tappets use 7.300-inch pushrod length, *stock flat-tappet* engines use a 7.800-inch pushrod. OEM roller-cam engines are shorter 7.200-inch.

 

The results are in...Fordors wins the imaginary Trophy...7.300 was probably the original measurement, i am assuming the wear and tear brought it down to 7.2995...but here is the actual pic with measurement. Now to find the rod height that should be in this engine (Hopefully the 7.300 is the correct one)

 

So isn't that a hydraulic roller cam length?

 

I'm not thinking that measurements down to 10,000ths of an inch are in an way meaningful, even if there's 5 of them!

Chris

 

Okay, so thanks to a few HAMBers, we now can surmise that you have after market hydraulic rollers.
Now, do yourself a favor . Check all the p/r's and rocker tips. If you need one of each, you can probably get them.
Don't buy any more than you need .You said you are budget challenged and that this is a daily driver.
Forget about trying to check optimum p/r length right now. You won't be able to do that readily anyway.
Where did we get 1.52 for the rockers? Marked on them? How about the brand?
A reputable outfit like Harland-Sharp will sell you whatever you need.
Oh, and forget about trying to get this stuff through NAPA, unless you want to pay double.
You're in the hot rod world now.

 

The 1.52 rocker ratio is plausible, regarding the stock ones are 1.5:1. I buy a lot from Summit although I have a local speed shop and they will match Summit prices. Summit's shipping is almost always 2-3 days.

Take the advice of others here, look EVERYTHING over carefully. Keep the lifters in the same bores if you go that far. But keep track of where everything came from in case you find more damage. I would take the intake off since you probably have something laying in the galley. My engine, I would pull the pan. Look up cutting an oil filter apart for inspection.

 

Ok, will inspect every rocker and pushrod, and go from there...the rocker has a CC stamp and 1.52 stamp as well, thinking that they are Competition Cams...here are a few pics...

 

Late to the party here, but does anyone else think this rocker doesn't look totally kosher?

I only have Harland Sharps to compare them to, little different animal.

 

And be willing to pay double if it means steering clear of all that offshore crap that you see on that famous auction site.

 

Hi Looks like the needles are crushed. Take all rockers apart or send them back to comp. With those rockers I would check with comp if you have the correct lifters for the street. I have those rockers and race lifters in my dragster and the lifter needles are splash lubed. The needles in his rocker got no oil because the oil hole got plugged.

 

The rocker bearings may not be damaged, it might only be iPhone camera distortion; how does that rocker feel? Is there any roughness if you hold the trunion (the shaft) and move the rocker arm around?
I would still at least try the black marker deal on the valve stem to do a quick geometry check. It will not cost anything in time or money, everybody has a marker and you won’t have to wait for a checking pushrod. I feel your pushrods are close, or maybe even exact to what you need. If you are way off on the correct length then you will be putting undue wear on your valve guides, the rocker will be moving the valve with some side thrust rather than just up and down motion.

 

^ x2

 

I do have a marker in hand...haha, so i will do the geometry check like the video 31Vicky posted, i also do not feel anything wrong with the rocker arm, it does turn freely with no tension or binding whatsoever. I am concerned with the underside of the rocker though, one more pic for you all to see...I will spend money if needed on rocker arm (or arms) just not sure if they have these exact ones anymore, that is 4 sure...I will keep you all posted.

 

Agreed on the rocker, it is pretty rough, these pictures show more of the damage.

 

Show us a picture of a good one. I agree that one looks kinda ruff.

 

You can check it all you want ..for practice . I told you once already. You need a solid lifter to do it properly.
Don't want to listen to me? I've been through tear down at the US National, several times.
Maybe you'll listen to someone else then.
Here we go: Cam Wars
http://www.lunatipower.com/Tech/Valvetrain/HowToVerifyValvetrainGeometry.aspx

 

Haha, if i did exactly what everybody told me, I'd probably would have set this thing on fire...i definitely wont be buying stuff from NAPA's, as you said ...but i like this link you posted...as i did 31Vicky's link. Thanks Mark, i do appreciate your knowledge, seems like alot of you are seasoned Gear Head's

 

Mark you are right you do need a solid lifter. So since he in all probability doesn't have one of those, tell him that he needs to spend another $75. or so to buy a set, when he actually only needs one. Or turn the man on to were he may be able to buy just one solid lifter.

Sometimes we all are to quick to take offense when asked for advice and it is not taken instantly. The man has been completely honest in asking for help. Lets continue to give it to him and not have to beat him up over it.

 

You need a dial indicator to check push rod length.
It needs to be checked at half valve lift.
You want your valve stem angle and the angle of the rocker center center pivot to the center of the roller tip to be at a 90 degree angle.
With a hydraulic lifter this can be tricky.

 

Now this method may not put the roller in the center of the valve stem but this is how it is done to have the rocker arm working in it's correct ark of travel.

 

One more for you.
http://www.hotrod.com/articles/ctrp-0611-rocker-arm-valvetrain-geometry/

 

Phone camera distortion...Ha! I can see half of that bearing cage, do you think they're mfd. in ellipses?
Just remove the snap ring, pullleeze!
This is frustrating.