Projects 1953 cranbrook help!?

Don't know, I had a 51 and a 52 at the same time back in the 60's and they had different grills? Maybe someone changed them to make a custom.

 

Thanks for the info it does seem to be a 51 then. my vehicle number is 96039809

 

Plymouth serial numbers from the early fifties start with 1 or 2. Is that the number off the driver's door post?

 

Did some research looks like canada built cars started with a 9

 

Here is what i found

 

Important information has been withheld from us. If you are in Canada and the car was made in Canada, you should know the engine is completely different from American made Plymouths.

In the US they made 2 different flathead sixes. A small one for Plymouth, Dodge, and Dodge trucks and a big one for DeSoto and Chrysler. They look the same but if you measure the head one is 23 1/4" long, the other is 25".

In Canada they made only the larger engine, then juggled the bore and stroke to get an engine the same size as the American ones.

Worth bearing in mind if you need parts. Also, a Chrysler/DeSoto engine of up to 265 cu in is a direct bolt in swap for your 218. Your block could even be bored out to the larger size and fitted with a 265 crank and rods, making it a 265.

 

Good to know thanks for the info! Ive pulled the cap off the distributor and everything inside looks new. as well as it has new plug wires and starter solenoid. It was running driving in 1994. Ive bought new plugs and jumped power straight to the coil and still no spark. i have removed the coil and tested terminal to terminal ohms is 1.4 . From terminal to the center plug that goes to the distributor is 7.8

 

Even tho the points looked new maybe i should lightly sand and re gap them?

 

If you open and close the points manually do they turn the electricity on and off? Check this with a 12v test light. When you turn the coil on and off do you get a spark? If the coil is off the car you can check this by connecting one side to the bat and a wire to the other side, and tapping the wire on the ground. When you do this the plug should fire if it is grounded.

 

Are they working or not? If they are working leave them alone. If they are not, start by cleaning them. I have told you twice how to do this. Do you want to get the car running as easily and quickly as possible or tear everything apart and get it so messed up the oldest man in the world couldn't get it running?

 

Didn't hook the battery up backwards ? Pretty sure they were positive ground . I will be corrected if i'm wrong.

 

Yes they are 6v positive ground electrics. Forgotten lore of the misty past. Lots of guys have messed up. Lucky Dalton does not have to go thru this because he knows the score.

 

Alright another update. I got her running had to blow out the fuel lines and gas tank feed in the tank also replaced the rubber hose between the tank hard line and the fuel pump. Ive been having a issue with the starter. It will turn over good for the first couple times then it acts as if the battery doesnt have enough juice. The battery is new and i have had it back to be tested. I have had the starter out when i first got the car and it was tested at a shop and passed. i have tested it with my multi meter it goes from 6.2v to around 3.5v when this issue happens. the battery cables are new and quiet big. i will double check they are all tight but is there anything else i should check?

 

Congratulations on getting her running! ...woo hoo.
suggestions on things to check:
1.Is the starter getting real hot after those couple times? (bad starter -don't care what the "shop" says)
2.Bad ground?
3.Too much advance on the timing?
4.After cranking does the battery go right back to 6.2V? if not maybe weak battery-but you had it tested...
5.starter switch

 

Ill check next time i try and start it to see if it gets hot
Ill double check the ground and solenoid/ battery terminals to make sure they are tight
I haven't touched the timing when its running it idles and revs good
Yep the battery goes back up to 6.2 ish volts.
As of right now im running power right to the coil and a wire off the starter solenoid. just to get it running and messing around in the engine bay

If the starter gets hot is that meaning it needs a rebuild? i noticed they sell brushes and bushings on rock auto. Is that pretty simple to do or should i just avoid the head ache and take it to a shop? thanks for the reply

 

Actually, I was thinking that car is positive ground, used to be said positive ground had more corrosion problems at the point where it contacts the body or frame...Starter hot- could be windings, could be brushes or bushings...

 

Take the starter apart and see if the armature is dragging on the field coils. If you see that is, replace the bushings. Before you remove the starter, do a starter draw test on it when cranking the engine. You can do that with a cheap induction amp meter that you just hold against the cable going to the starter while cranking the engine.

 

Could be a faulty solenoid. If you need a new one Ford 6v solenoid will work, and is easier to get.

Bernbaums has them but they are expensive $100 http://www.oldmoparts.com/parts-electrical.aspx

For testing purposes you can try a jumper cable across the solenoid, if the starte works better it indicates a faulty solenoid.

Ebay to the rescue. Here is one cheap https://www.ebay.com/itm/1946-53-54...ash=item5b44d3d01c:g:6xEAAOSwR31amL~n&vxp=mtr

 

So i checked all my connections and they are clean and tight. I tried a bigger battery and no dice same as my smaller 640cca battery. I have a video ill try and upload so you can see what happens

 

I have by passed the solenoid as well as checked grounds again. i can turn the engine over by hand. if i take the plugs out the starter will turn the motor over for a second then back to the same thing. Starter doesn't get hot. not sure what has changed in the last few days i had it running really good 2 days ago. could the cold weather effect this that much? was plus 1 when i had her running and starting great. it is now -10. only other thing i have done is changed the oil and coolant.

 

What kind of oil? Hope you didn't fall for Gomer at the filling staion and his old story about "good ol' straight 30 in old engines". 10W30 was available when your car was built, it was the default choice in every gas station and dealership in the fifties, sixties, seventies and eighties. Chances are your car never used anything else.

It is acting just like a weak battery. What happens if you stick a 12v in it?

 

i used 15w40 rottela hope thats ok. I did try and boost it and same thing no difference. also tried a way bigger 6v battery. When it was turning over and starting there was no weird or grinding sounds coming from the starter

 

The rotella won't do any harm but it sure doesn't help cold starts in the winter. Would rather see 10W30 but not enough to throw away a crankcase full of fresh oil.

I don't know why it is turning over so slow. You seem to have covered everything. It won't turn as fast as a 12v car but should turn faster than it is.

Did you say you had the starter rebuilt?

 

I haven't had it rebuilt but i have had it out and to a shop who "bench tested it" Pretty much clamped it in a vise and put power to it. He actually had a starter on the bench he just rebuilt that looked almost identical to mine but with a solenoid attached to it so i kinda trust his opinion. Maybe i should have it rebuilt? not to sure what else it could be or what else to try.

 

Maybe hook up a meter to the battery see where the volts drop to when cranking...3 or less might be a weak battery....
other thing is: I'm still wondering about the engine to chassis/frame connection. I see where your cable is bolted to the head, (hopefully underneath that is clean) -but how does the current flow from the engine to the frame/body? I've had cars that had issues until I ran a second ground strap. Engine to frame maybe use a jumper cable in your case. Just as a test.

 

The battery is brand new and i have had it back to be tested. I did try a couple booster cable to ground the battery to engine and one to frame. Also cleaned where the ground cable goes to the engine and when i had the starter out i cleaned up the mating surface.

 

Sounds like the rear starter bushing may need to be replaced. They typically wear oval and will allow the armature to drag on the field coils. Easy fix with the starter out. And while you are there you can change the brushes also.

 

Whatever you've got, great looking car! Post some pics when you get it shined up a bit. Love the visor too. Those engines are simple and you'll get it running. Basically just spark to the plugs and gas in the carb. It will probably run OK with the compressions you listed. Not optimum but OK. I've had them improve over time if they've been setting a while.

 

Thanks ive just ordered the bushing as well as a set of brushes. hopefully that will do the trick.