Technical HOW TO RUIN A NICE SATURDAY

Heres a good one, McLeod recommends using this stuff

The only problem is no one sells it! I'd have to order from Summit and wait another couple days.
Consensus? I was just going to use DOT 3 to soak the o rings in prior to install.

 

To me Dot 3 should be ok unless that assebly fluid has some extar slippery stuff in it to make assembly/break in better..But whats a couple days; wouldn't want it to bite you in the ass....

 

again.

 

O'Reillys sells brake assy lube part number H9440; bottle looks the same as the Centric stuff you posted.

Don't know if your store has it; but a couple of the stores around here stock it, so it must be somewhat common.

On the other hand; put a lot wheel and master cyls together over the years using brake fluid for assy with no problems.

 

Modified Mustang cable set up.

 

I rebuilt the T/O bearing tonight. A monkey could do it (not a grease monkey...Rawlings could screw this up). I will install it tomorrow after work. It only took a few minutes after reviewing the You Tube video I attached above.

 

Damn
What a bitch of a deal to have to go through huh!
I think the thread title should read "how to ruin two nice Saturdays".
Beaches?

 

Mother beaches

 

I'll have it back together and running by Saturday. My goal was to tear it down, order parts, rebuild the TOB and stuff the motor back in the car in one week. I have to work till 4:00 today and I have to golf tomorrow so it will be close.
I only need a bout 3 hours to replace the drive train, exhaust, radiator hoses and wiring working solo.

 

Not only that but they recommend in that video I posted buying a couple of rebuild kits so you can have one in the trailer for when it fails again

I swear I checked that measurement twice and even had a buddy over that night in the garage to double check me. Looks like we might have been into the Cap'n Morgans a bit. I was off just a tad. I called McLeod and they said I should have installed a spacer behind the adjustment screw when using a T-5 behind the flathead.

this showed up today, part no. MCL 1429. Write that down.

It adds .87" to my adjustment capability. According to my calculation last night I will still need to use .255" turn out on the adjustment screw to set the bearing properly. That includes the .200" that McLeod wants in spacing between the fingers and the bearing to allow for clutch wear.

I'll mount everything up tonight and prepare for reinsertion.

 

What did the old o-rings look like?

 

Well THAT would certainly reassure me.

 

No nicks or tears, You can definitely feel the new ones are thicker. The swivel fittings are a lot tighter now and I had to work to get the piston back in. I am feeling pretty confident on the rebuild.

 

So then Dot 5 shrinks orings?

Just kidding...glad you have a good feeling about it.

 

Vicky
My "Beaches" comment was a subtle question to Billy to see if it might be at the Beaches cruise this summer, held every Wednesday early evening it's a bit of Mecca for Portland/Vancouver car people, an open event (mostly).
Held on the grounds of Portland International Raceway, also 1/8mile drags.

 

Did we resolve the possible issue of the orientation of the bleeder outlet appearing to be not at the top of the installation? What do the installation instructions say in this regard? We don't want another teardown! Or maybe we do, summink to chew (crow?) over!

Chris

 

Kinda neat how you set it up to be able to drop the engine and trans out the bottom.

 

That sounds like a really good time.

When things go wrong around here, it's usually some sort of mumble and groaning. When things really go really really wrong, like a leaky throw out bearing somebody is going to use the "Mother Bitch" expletive. It's reserved. More of an inside joke I guess, but it's funny in a F -ed up situation like Billy's
And all you can do is realize that it's going to be ok but it won't be fun unless someone reminds everyone about mother bitches

 

Whoa, I missed all this fun! I'd have lost my mind having to pull that all apart, good for you for staying cool. I had to pull the engine in my zero-turn lawnmower a couple of weeks ago, twice, and had to lay the tools down and walk away for an hour.

 

Bleeder line always has to be on the top. It doesn't matter which swivel is on top, every half turn adds or subtracts .030" so you turn in it in or out, adjust the swivels and install the lines, bleeder on top. In the pics the TOB has turned a bit so the swivels are actually pointed at the ground. The point out the bell housing toward the M/C.

Keep your head cool and your whiskey on ice, Brian. You made me do this as the thread title evidences, this thread could have been subtitled "it's Brian's fault"

 

Thanks, it is fun to work on. Wish I didn't have to already, but its not all that hard. I have been dropping the sub fames out from under F bodies for a long time to remove the running gear (just like GM installed them), that is where I got the idea to design my car this way.

 

Take tomorrow off and go to golf.

 

Hi Bandit Billy,

I know what it is like. I had to take out my engine twice in 1 month - during the assembly of my car - because the brand new top-of-the-line racing TO bearing was leaking. After the first time it was really hard to trust the thing. After the second time I took it out and it never went back in.. I then searched for one that is used in a modern production-car and found one that fit. No more problem ever since.

This is a part that just has to be rock-solid.

Please take my advice or you'll be looking under your car every single time before- and after you take it for a spin.

 

In my defense, I chose MUCH less expensive parts for my car!

 

Cost does not always mean quality. in my case, I take full responsibility for the error Cheap booze makes for expensive errors.

 

As promised, back together again. I was wrong on the time it consumed. 7 hours of wrenching today but that included bleeding the throw out. No leaks, firm pedal. All I need is a couple gallons of antifreeze tomorrow and I can call this one done.

For those installing a McLeod bearing, make sure you take care when measuring. I ended up with the following measurements for reference.
Distance from the 3 clutch fingers to the face of the bell housing 3.8850 inches
Thickness of the straight edge I used across the bell housing needed to be deducted at .1785 inches.
McLeod recommends a gap of .1500 to 2.000 inches between the fingers and the bearing surface so deduct that.
Removing the maximum of .2000 left me with 3.5065 inches for that measurement.

My Throw out bearing, from the face of the bearing to the transmission case needed to match that number. I needed to add a .875" spacer between the adjusting screw and the transmission, I sourced that from Summit. Every full rotation of the adjusting screw moves the bearing .60. I was in-between measurements so I closed the gap to .1875 inches, well within the tolerance McLeod specified.

Everything else went according to plan. The rebuilt unit was easy to bleed and the best part...no lake Erie on the garage floor.

Oh, and I shot an 83 yesterday at Broadmoor in Portland. All in all, a pretty typical week in the Bandit Garage.

 

You Da Bandit......seriously amazing trip you've taken us on...thank you...and there's more I know but yeah...good job sir.

 

The Dot 5 / Silcone debate just won't go away. I worked for some years in the brake industry, and we had customers that swore by dot5 - and we had customers that swore at it. Mostly the latter. Silicone fluid was developed back in the 50's as a good way to protect military vehicles in long storage. Sort of worked.
Some brake seals shrink slightly in silicone, but more common is to slowly grow eventually turning to jelly, sometime seizing the cylinder.
Where silicone is deigned in, the seals are made of a different material.
I do not know of any major vehicle manufacturer that uses it other than HD. Most use Dot 4 or 5.1 (not Dot5).
Re paint damage, when working on brake or clutch systems always give a quick wash down with water when finished, and problem solved.
Garpo

 

Lake Erie and the city skyline
Taken from Edgewater park in front of the new sign.
It's like downtown