Technical 5,8 cylinder not firing, valve train noise

Aggressive cam is on different motor. I used a dial indicator on the rockers, travels the same as other cylinders, didn't notice any binding. I thought maybe the new rods where off but they measure the same as original.

 

Don't let 31 Vicky get under your skin. He loves in his own special way. Maybe it's because he's the King of fixing F*** up's that makes him that way?

 

“Chicken bones and feathers”

After reading through this thread for a third time I have to agree”
Lots of good advise, but all I’m seeing right now is tissue paper, pulling cams and rods, etc with no clear diagnostic path to anywhere!

1 Please. Double and triple check your ignition, timing and firing order.
Make sure your cap is not cracked and wires are good etc.
2 Hook up a vacuum gauge ! This is the fastest easiest way to find out what is really going on
3 do a compression test- a real one! Nothing pisses me off more the “ well it blew my finger off the hole when Cletus cranked her over” wtf ? Who are you bugs bunny sticking your finger in Elmer’s gun?
4 check for vacuum leaks with the engine at idle and at speed ( do a search someone here posted a nifty diy “ smoke machine” you can build for next to nothing and in no time
5 if all this checks out do a leak down test, to confirm findings or disprove findings.
6 how is the fuel system?
I can keep going but I think you get the point. When you have “gremlins” as stupid as it sounds you NEED to start at the begging and move forward methodically, bouncing around checking everything all at once and without proper knowledge can sometimes introduce other issues and problem wich just compound issues.
The old saying KISS
KEEP
IT
SIMPLE
STUPID
always applies.


Hey Vicky voodoo “ ****s” sometimes

 

I agree, walk through it with 31vicky. He has walked me through a couple of problems. I started out doing it my way then did it his way and now the truck is running. He is good at trouble shooting follow his advice and it will run.
Tony

 

"Down in Louisiana, where the black trees grow
Lives a voodoo lady named Marie Laveau
Got a black cat's tooth and a Mojo bone
And anyone who wouldn't leave her alone
She'd go another man done gone"

 

Play the music
**** on some Ginni pepperes,
and park the car on Congo square

 

"She bent down and turned around and gave me a wink
She said "I'm gonna make it up right here in the sink"
It smelled like turpentine, it looked like Indian ink
I held my nose, I closed my eyes, I took a drink
I didn't know if it was day or night"

 

On another note.... I have a Mallory dual point with no vacuum advance. The plate where the points rest doesn't seem to move. You know anything about this, Vicky? This is not on my vortec. Also notice that both set of points are set with different dwells.

 

Non vacuum advance units will not have a moveable plate But you will still have the gear mis match.

 

Ting tang wallawalla bing bang.

A vac advance pot moves the timing plate. So that distributor's plate won't move, it shouldn't.

Mallory has a great tech on setting up theirs dual point units covers Primary points and secondary points

Oh eeh ohh ah ah

 

Really Vicky lol !!!!!

 

Whats the con using no advance? I thought it be better.

 

Damn, youse guys know how to entertwain!

 

Better depends on the purpose and goal. Like boats are better than cars,,,, depends on the water right?


Cruise and street driving efficiency loss and variability loss is the con to locked timing.

Drag cars run WOT with little to no manifold vac to pull it in any way.
Plus a locked plate and timing provide superior consistency with no chance of going over the ign advance total setting causing troubles with high compression engines.

 

Agree about the efficiency loss for normal driving. Just to be clear. The Mallory isn't 100% timing locked out. The mechanical advance which is below the breaker plate is adjustable.



YH ***EMBLY


I had a dual point in the 56 (avatar) to be period correct but got tired of it (running a GM cast iron unit now).

 

"ALVIN!!!!!!!!!"

 

this **** is better than TV


that aint saying much these days

 

Non advancing distributors are more for racing applications, just set and go, engines that don’t build vacuum and run at WOT.

Better to use an advancing distributor in a street driven car, when they work and are set correctly you get better drive ability fuel mileage etc.

 

That's because it isn't scripted. Improvisation is golden.

 

Yeah back to the lecture at hand........compression result come in and some pics of plugs, get a beer and sit down.

 

These are the results I was expecting,
5) 160 lean plug
3) 170
7)170
1) 170
2)175
4) 160
6) 160 lean plug
8) 170 lean plug

Less than 10% between 5,6 and 2. Doubt that's leading to lean plugs. Gotta be vacuum somewhere. I'll be doing a test tonight or tomorrow morning.

 

I have checked Timing a lot and distributor. I might be changing wires. Tho mine read proper ohms. Per length.

 

P***enger side left to right, 8642

 

Driver left to right 1375

 

My girl is sick

 

With those numbers everything is open and closing and is good enough to run. 5 8 hmm? Is there a rag is the runner of that intake? If so, she's on the rag and explains her mood.

 

Are you suggesting the car is on the rag?