Not really progress on the car per se, but I have been slowly modifying the bead roller I purchased a while back. I have run some test panels through it and am pretty happy with the results I am getting from it. Still a lot to learn about metal shaping though.
Here is a rough start of the passenger side floorboard. I have a ways to go with it, but it is a learning process. I need to get the transmission cover edge dialed in. My plan is to roll a flange on the edge of it and then put a thin piece of plate underneath the flange for the cover to bolt into. I plan on ordering a planishing hammer to get rid of the hammer dings. Any suggestions on a good affordable planishing hammer from anyone?
http://www.grizzly.com/search/?q=(planishing+AND+hammer)+OR+(planishing+OR+hammer) both ends of the budget
Got the seat frame finished up and it's at the upholstery shop getting covered. I'm a ways off from needing it but I figured it's one less thing I have to get finished. The powdercoater did an excellent job I think! Here are some before and after pics.
It's the original split bench seat out of the 51 2 door. I just stripped it down, and had it sandblasted and powdercoated. It looks almost brand new though!
Here are the colors the seat is getting done in. It will have black bands with the blue used in pleated inserts.
I have a spare chassis if you need one. I'm in muskogee, OK. It's already got the suspension cleaned off and is sandblasted.
I'm all set with my chassis. Its been cleaned and POR15 applied, and new Chassis Engineering springs and a totally rebuilt stock front end with new,springs as well. Thanks!
I have never built a 235 before, much less one with a 264 cam. Is the "lope" I am hearing really a "lope", or just something not quite dialed in with the tune on the engine? I am getting ready to install an Offenhauser dual carb intake with Tom Langdon's Weber/Carter carbs and want to make sure everything is right on the tune before I start with the install.
Sounds about right. How much run time do you have on the motor? More that 1/2 hour and in doubt do a leak down test. That will tell you the story on each Cyl. That's really all you need to care about right now. The Wizzard
I have probably 2 hours run time on it. If I bump the idle up to about 800-1000 it doesnt have the "lope". It is pretty smooth running. In the video, it's idling at about 500 rpm. Nice and slow.
Sounds good. 264 Deg. is actually a lot for these motors. To smooth things out, Frank McGurk, with help from Isky, pioneered the Dual pattern (D.P.) cam profiles for the Chevy six. These featured less duration on the Exhaust lobes, thus decreasing overlap. The closest modern grind is Langdon's "Bulldog" grind, which has 264 Deg. intake, and 254 Deg. of Exhaust. So relax, and enjoy!
I thought I would show some of the craftsmanship on the upholstery work. I was very happy with the job overall.
Your project is looking great, but i do have a couple questions, Is the straight six going to work with the five speed? I have been told that over drive will cause the motor to lug because it can not run in its torque ban. And are you going to run a manual or hyd, clutch? I was looking at running a straight six with a five speed until I heard that and started to look in to it. I hope you do not have to cut that cool seat to make room for the shifter. Keep up the good work
Interesting question. Ive not ever run this engine/transmission combination myself but there are plenty that have. The rear end is 3.73 and I believe it makes a difference on the gearing on whether or not it's going to lug the engine. The adapters to bolt the t5 up have been around for a good while. As far as clutches go, I am using the flywheel and bell housing from the 235 so it will remain a manual clutch. Maybe someone will chime in regarding the engine getting lugged down in overdrive. I may have to bend the shifter a bit to clear the seat but I wont be cutting on it.
Using a 3.73 gear with a T5 is a very good combo depending on the T5's gear spread. They have various OD ratios from .62 to I think .74. If yours is a .62 the final in OD will be a 2.31 which is very tall. If the OD is.72 the final would be 2.68 which is right in there with many of the current model car's drive trains. This will be a very good highway gear that will allow you cruise in the 2000 to 2500 RPM range. Chevy and Jimmy 6's are torquers with long strokes, not designed to be high RPM motors, but do very well for there size in the 1000 to 3000 RPM range. Also because of the siamesed intake ports and the typical intake systems these engines start to develop a sort of asthma around 3 grand. The problem you will have is that with the 264 Delta, the engine at 2500 RPM is going to be way below its torque band. The Delta 264 is approaching a "3/4 cam" which are ground for high RPM power not low and midband torque. I have a 264 Delta in my 320 inch Jimmy inline with 10&half Venolias and the cam doesn't come on until about 3000 RPM. So I'm thinking that Your engine will suffer even worse in the 2000 range. Delta makes other good grinds and you may be better off with their "243" degree cam that will give you better low and midband torque if you want to do more cruising than racing. Best Regards and good luck with all your endeavors, KB.
Just passing this on - a guy south of Canton, Ohio has a 52 pontiac delivery back half on Ebay...its listed with a partial Studebaker chassis as an abandoned project. Might be able to get him to sell the delivery roof separately? https://www.ebay.com/itm/1950-Stude...ash=item33f626612c:g:STEAAOSwC0dbs-UP&vxp=mtr
Been spending some time in the shop after work this week. Making a little progress. Going to try and get these plumbed up and see what happens.
Thanks for the advice Slopok. I just used that line from the cheap oil pressure gauge on the run-in stand. The car will get a hard line.
Ive been talking about cutting cars up long enough. I am not driving any of them, and I have no idea what I am doing, so let's just get started. I have only a few hours every evening to work in the shop if I am not going to be a zombie at work, so this may be a little drawn out. Hung a door this evening, and cut out a B post. The next step, unless advised and convinced otherwise,is going to be to replace the rocker on the right side and work my way towards the back. Sorry for the blurry pics....need to adjust my camera or something...Yes...I know I didn't brace anything but that is of no concern. This majority of this body is getting skinned off and the A posts get chopped at some point. For those that have done anything like this, should I get a front clip on this car to line up the doors before fitting the rockers? I have a complete front clip that has never been disassembled (that I can tell) on my 2 door parts car. Is there a specific order to get everything lined up? Opinions welcome!
I cut some of the right quarter panel out and found about 2 gallons of plaster on it, close to 5/8" to 3/4" thick in some places. The inner wheel well is rotted up several inches, but the ones in the Sedan Delivery are in good shape so I should be able to slice out what I need to patch this one. I suspect the other side is much the same.
Would it be better to make your cut in the middle of the wheel well tub to where you wont need that part anyway? Also since you are slicing and dicing the roof anyway, would it make sense to make your roof cut across the top somewhere behind the doors, keeping your good portion of roof and original roof height instead of cutting the A pillars?
The Jalopy Journal
