Technical A Big Paint No No (I told you so)

So we have been in the process of restoring my wife's 1961 Chrysler Imperial. The guy that is doing the majority of the work for me debated with me on how to paint the car. He wanted to paint the car apart so that the jambs do not have a tape line. I wanted the car jambed out first,****embled then painted together with a good back tape job done in the jambs.
Regardless if all the paint is in the same can, air pressure, spray technique can all change the color.
I let him paint his way, and this week I helped****emble the doors on the car.
Well now we will be respraying the car Saturday the way I originally wanted it done. Just wanted to share with you guys if you have never seen this first hand. The paint on the door and fender is the exact same paint out of the same gallon can and sprayed the same day. Needless to say my last comment to him was, "I told you so."

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Yup!

 

Agreed.

 

no first hand experience, but I've been told metallics are good for that, especially if the doors are layed flat or hung at a different angle from how they will be mounted. the flake flows out in a different pattern and that's the result. IF you wanted to do it his way, hang the doors upright.

 

Never would have believed it, same paint, same can, same day .
Sucks to be him but Atodaso

 

You[emoji19]
Him[emoji30]
Its always fun doing something twice

 

Ya mean to tell me "Paint Guru" isn't just words? It actually means something? Huh.

 

The doors were upright, if I were to bet, it's a air pressure change, or pressure build up in the disposable cups, causing a pressure difference even if he was spraying the same air pressure. As the disposable cups collapse it reduces the amount of paint coming out.

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The Gravity Feed spray guns with the cup above allow the metallic to settle , must be emptied between coats , can also lead to spitting chunks if not thoroughly cleaned and strained between coats.

 

I don't mind painting non-metallic in pieces but never metallic. Even on non-metallic you have to be careful on the number of coats or you can see a color difference.

 

Even air temp and humidity can change the color. When I was mixing paint for a living, it was a never ending battle. Try to match a car sprayed in Detroit in January when you are in Texas in the summer.

 

Yea when I teach a color match and blending class, I make them use 4 different spray out cards and spray each one at different air pressure, then give them 4 MORE, reduce the paint with faster reducer and 4 different air pressures and we end up with 8 different color. That's another reason why we say, "PANEL PAINT AT YOUR OWN RISK"

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I thought everyone knew that.

(yes, I just sprayed some doors this morning, and expect them to look quite different than the rest of the car. But it's just an old race car so it don't matter)

 

To all of the above...Yep...Yep...Yep,Yep,Yep...Yep,Yep...Yep,Yep.Yep,Yep,Yep...YEP!


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Lesson 1- don’t panel paint!!!!
Lesson 2 - refer to lesson 1!

 

I've done several Model A's and always paint them in pieces and they come out fairly close but can see a difference from different angles. Almost impossible to paint together but try to paint as many parts as possible each time such as doors, decklid, cowl and body shell at once. I did paint the top on My 60 T-Bird 2010 Ford Kona Blue separately but it had a 2" chrome piece where it meets the quarter panel.

 

I screwed one up like that myself. Too upset to redo so I've been driving it screwed up for 5 years. I will redo it next year when I get my current project done.

 

When art meets science, sometimes art wins.
"Itoad yaso."

 

Who's eating the cost of the F-up?

 

I will. I don't mind he's a good guy, and I know he feels just as bad as I do about it, plus I will never let him forget about it either!
And it's my wife's car, the only time she calculates cost is when it comes to my car, never hers.

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Thank you for sharing. I've found that the screw ups are where I learn the most.

 

Some colors are better than others to spray in pieces. That light silvery blue color can be a******* where you overlap paint at the end of a coat. Always a whole car and think about how you spray so that you are not spraying the last swipe of paint over something that was painted with the first swipe.

 

Your posts are always useful. As a driveway painter, I really appreciate you willingness to share some hard-experience.

 

"Mama said there'll be days like this" (Shirelles)

 

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...nt-that-fixtures-and-taping-technics.1008403/

 

Thank you for posting this. Going to attempt to spray my own truck eventually and did not want to learn this the hard way.

 

Since you are the "Paint Guru" is there a reason you didn't spray it? Not trying to be an****, just curious.

 

I am a technical rep and my territory is from Virginia to Louisiana. So I am on the road every week. The guy doing the car, does only one car at a time and charges by the hour. I was out of town that whole week, I don't think it's fair for him to go without a weekly pay because of me being out of town and wanting to paint it. He did all the body work so if the paint job comes out great it's because of the prep work he did not really the painter.
And to be honest I paint damn near every day, in hot**** paint booths in the South, so I don't mind a break from time to time, however I did want to paint my own car. But if I would have screwed it up I might not have told any of you lol.


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Thanks for sharing that.

And tank @Paint Guru for the info-I didn't know it.

The only reason I never tried to paint things separate is because I figured I couldn't get them all to line up without whacking something I didn't want whacked at least once.

 

Thanks. It was a mistake that I was about to make.
Pete