Hot Rods Forming Brake Lines with NiCopp

I will be installing some new brake lines shortly on my 47 Plymouth. I have the tubing and all of my bending/flaring tubing tools ready, but this is the first time I've worked with a coil of NiCopp, as opposed to sticks of straight steel tubing.

I'm big on neatness and appearance, so I'm concerned about how nice and straight a line I can achieve after un-coiling the NiCopp.

Should I invest in a tubing straightener? Or is patience and determination enough to create a nice straight line out of NiCopp? I've got several other brake line projects lined up after this, so I wouldn't mind investing in a useful tool if it makes a difference.

Thanks.

 

Yes

 

I have seen guys use patience to get sections straight enough for never mind. Perfectly straight might be a bit subjective. I can say it's much easier to straighten than steel lines are.

However, if you are a perfectionist, then a tubing straightener might be the right investment. I've also seen a couple of home built straightener units (including a hole drilled lengthways through a a 1' section of 2x4) that have worked with good/great results.

My girlfriend does the same thing. I ask her an either/or question, and she responds with yes.

 

I like your girlfriend.

 

Yes to the tubing straightener and also yes to some good quality benders like the Imperial lever type benders I have.

Some random shots of my brake lines all done with ni cop.

 

^^^^^Nice work^^^

 

man, I thought I did a good job with my tubing but now I know the truth....

 

Dang...That looks great!

 

I usually uncoil the roll out on the floor first, it gets pretty straight. Just push it against the floor and unroll. The first and last little bit might not straighten out but the rest should be ok. It will twist because of it's own weigh as you put it on if you are not careful.

 

Very nice tubing work. What is the source of the clamps?
I assume the larger CuNi tube is for fuel?

 

Who has a source or even better a part # for a quality straightener ?

 

I've found that after straightening, keeping the tubing straight is the trick! It is so soft that any length over about 3 feet will bend from its own weight.

 

I used it on my 32 but just bought straight lengths close to what I needed measuring from joints, fittings, etc. No straightening, only bending and flaring one end. Very minimal waste. Local parts store has every length (12-72") in several diameters. Also used it for fuel line.

 

I've had good luck just rolling the coil of tubing out against the cement garage floor. It's better if you have a "helper" stand on the first little bit with soft soled sneakers while you work the roll.
I'd be tempted to try that first before buyin' mo' 'quipment.

 

It looks like some tight bends. Maybe NiCopp would work for my master cylinder/ x-member issue.

 

Kugel Komoonents has really nice stainless clamps.

 

Eastwood had a nice one for not much money if I remember correctly.

 

I've heard of folks rolling pieces between two pieces of plywood to straighten it, but not tried it myself.

I've found it can be straightened pretty well just by hand (if it's not too long and unmanageable) but when I've wanted it as straight as possible I've very gently squeezed it in a bench vice with the flexible, urethane jaw covers installed, section by section.

Chris

 

Thanks, they’re called T clamps from Made for you products.
Really nice product. I used them all over my chassis for everything from the brake lines to the battery cable.

https://www.made4youproducts.com/t-clamp

Yes, the 3/8 ni cop is my fuel line.
I also used 5/16” ni cop to plumb my carbs.

 

Rigid makes some really nice benders, they have little mandrels and you can bend 180 without any flat spots. It has a little tab at the bottom so you can mount in vice, which I like. But they are a little pricey. I use a straightener


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Very nice work and engine Blue One. I'd like to have a fuel block like that for 2 4 barrels.

 

What did you use to secure the lines to the frame?

 

Damn I was going to accuse Blue one of showing off with that beautiful work but the rest of you raise the bar just as high or higher.
It would take two hours to dig out all of the tube benders I have out of their hiding places in that little garage and most of them don't get the job done the way I want it done. That's the first thing, cheap tube benders are a waste of money if you want a nice job.
I don't know what parts house that HotrodA goes to but they don't have short lengths of that good stuff here, all they have is that green (i think it is green) coated crap that kinks as often as it bends.
Rich S does that Rigid bender have a number on it? I think my tool box needs one of those.

I have the Eastwood 25304 flair tool and it makes life so much easier when it comes to getting good flairs compared to my old SnapOn that is probably so worn out anyhow. I have had it since the early 70's and have done hundreds of flairs with it but it is pretty tired.
On the original question, I have several rolls of tubing in the garage but haven't bought or made a tube straightener. I was thinking about buying some inexpensive pulleys at the Hardware store and using the sheaves to make my own straightener but would have to balance the cost against buying one.

 

Thanks for the replies.

I've decided to go ahead and purchase a tubing straightener. I'm sure I'll get a lot of use out of it.
Hope my results are as nice as Blue One's.

 

You can make your own straightener using a piece of wood and sliding patio glass door wheels in the configuration shown above.
You can also use common things like water pump pulleys to bend around, just take your time and use your imagination.

 

I used T clamps from Made for you products.
Really nice product. I used them all over my chassis for everything from the brake lines to the battery cable.

They’re mounted in the chassis using the 10/32 stainless steel machine screws they come with going into 10/32 Rivnuts installed in the frame.

https://www.made4youproducts.com/t-clamp

 

It’s Rigid 600 series. They make about 6 different sizes. If you google Rigid 600 series tube bender you will see different suppliers (that was stainless that I showed in the pic)


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Rigid makes some very nice benders however for the smaller tubing I have developed a preference over the years for the Imperial benders.

They offer a lever style bender for 1/8” tubing if you need it.

Bend radius.
In the 3/16” tubing size the Imperial bender bends to a tighter radius (7/16”) than the Rigid (5/8”).
Imperial benders will also bend 180 degrees.

Next is cost , Imperial benders can be found for less $ in most cases than the Rigid ones and the Imperial benders are by no means lesser quality.

 

I agree with you on the smaller tubing. I like the Rigid for 5/16, 3/8 and 1/2 AC lines and as I said they are pricey


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I'm a freak when it comes to things like brake lines... they have to look perfect. I used NAPA steel lines on my Ford, this is what I know for many years. I do have a bad flare on one of my lines at the master that has a real small leak... annoying. I'm going to give the copper stuff a go.