Projects How not to build a hotrod - My '33 Plymouth

Just regular ol bacon. I don't know if I'm worthy of English bacon quite yet. I'm still studying baconomics.

 

Hi Johnny Sparkle, thank you for your very informative build thread!
You made me realize I need to upgrade my hammer selection and my HotRod project needed a bike project.
Your thought process lets you test your awesome metal work skills.
Cheers Aaron

 

This is probably the only time in recorded history that something with "Bacon" in it failed.

 

I'm gonna do some stuff and things.

 

Have at it Johnny.

 

Welcome back.

 

Great thread. Your metal work is really good. I especially enjoyed the side projects jumping in. Especially the rambler! I'm in the middle of building a 59 wagon. Sbc, airbags, ford rear end. Would love to see any pics of your build.

 

I see that the fill plug on your cherry picker leaks. So did mine until I got a new ram. Your solution looks less expensive.

 

Once I figured out that it would stop leaking if I never refilled it, I stopped having issues.

 

That unibody and torque tube nonsense on the Rambler is the worst. So much work to make it right. You have my admiration/sympathy.

If someone gave me a choice between spending another year building another Rambler or having genital warts for one year, I would have a tough time choosing.

 

Glad to see this thread up and rolling again

 

Ramblers aren't that hard. The torque tube isn't hard to replace, just like replacing leaf springs with a four link. The only "trouble" is you HAVE to replace it to use a modern engine and trans... you have to change the rear axle and suspension too. Hey, you wanted a more modern drivetrain anyway...may as well change it all! I have a Jag IRS in mine... actually real easy using the Jag cage instead of a crossmember. Did the crossmember and everything bolted in solid first. Took me 10 years, but I finally got enough of all the vibration noise. Got a Jag cage and used the rubber mounts. Got rid of half the noise, and it was actually MUCH easier to mount!!

 

When you say "Jag cage" do you mean just what the jag set up mounts to? Or is there some company making something for those swaps? Just curious jag rear is one of the options I've been thinking of but have not researched anything yet.

 

I think he means what's also called subframe, sub-assembly, cradle...that is the factory mounting.

 

Sounds right

 

That's right -- the sheetmetal stamping that the Jag IRS is mounted in from the factory. That's pre 89 or so models. Later models use a different setup with a special spring and shock. Easy enough to replace that with a single coil over, would just have to fab an upper mount. Would have to mod the crossmembers also. The later model doesn't require radius rods, which is a plus, and has outboard brakes instead of inboard. That's a plus also. Some models, like the XJ6 (XJS), used the 1st gen type (radius rods, inboard brakes) after 86, as late as 1996. 93-96 had outboard brakes by using the late model hub carriers. Might be Europe only though. Good pics here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jaguar_independent_rear_suspension. Click on the pics for more info.

I use 24" four link bars with heims on the axle end and RUBBER rod ends (Ride Tech has them) on the body end for radius rods. If in a loud open car you'd be okay with heims on both ends, but I wanted it to be somewhat quiet. The rods move in two planes so you have to have heims, or you can use rubber or urethane on both ends and grease the threads on one end so the rods can twist a little. I was thinking the poly ends I used at first would give enough for the slight twisting motion, but found out about 3 years after installing that the ends were turning a little -- one pulled out! Used heims after, but since it took 20-25K miles to wear the threads out I could have just greased them and they would have lasted at least twice as long... maybe drilled the ends for a grease fitting or just disassemble and grease every 3-4 years. Easy enough, just take one bolt out and drop that end of the arm...

 

This is from my 1989 XJ40

 

Let`s get back on subject guys. Here is some hacked up pictures of the frame some one was gonna use on the frame for a 33 Plymouth.

 

Ok. Right. It's been a year or so since my last post, I bet you would expect some progress.

Hahahahahahaha! You don't know me! I can procrastinate this crap forever!

Step...uh...542?

Finish the Harley. Go to some car shows. Go to Japan a few times for work. Avoid progress at all costs..

 

Step #543:

Buy a '48 Panhead engine. Gather parts. Mock stuff up so you can look cool on Instagram.

I don't even really like bikes that much. I don't know what's wrong with me.

 

Wow welcome back! Merry Christmas! I’m Hoboshotrods on insta gram

 

Step 534:

Force yourself to work on the coupe again. Get annoyed that it took, like, 4 freaking hours to make this stupid simple looking hoop to go over that funky-shaped TKO600.

 

Step 535:

Delay for at least a month or two after getting that stupid tranny hoop thing tacked in. Become inexplicably motivated one day and start knocking out the tranny tunnel.

 

Step 536:

Well shit. You accidentally made progress. Might as well put a floor in there while you're at it.

 

Ho Ho Ho Santa Sparkles Back, Ho Ho Holy freeking awesome comeback @Johnny Sparkle

 

Step 537:

Rebuild the bottom of the A-pillar to match the '32 3W patch panels that were hacked up to fit the cowl. Mock up the door skin patch panel. The '32 Ford 3W has a longer door and a bit of a different shape,but the panel will work, I think.

I've honestly gotten pretty luck on all the '32 Ford stuff working so well so far. The curves are way different than the Plymouth, but it seems to be falling together pretty nicely.

 

Nice tin bending. I'm still watching.

 

Dig it. Glad you're back.

 

Damn dude. WTF. Quite the journey !! Car looks great too ... by the way.