Technical Anyone know what tapped thread Chrysler screw in balljoints are?

How long have you had these threads (since 1958)
What's the papers on thread size
(You don't need that )
These are not threads you are looking for

 

Simple question ? Not only has it likely been answered, but if you're not able deal with litany of "Fly shit and pepper" perhaps reconsider posing such "simple" questions to HAMB or any other public forums.

Besides, you're the one with "male and female parts in (your) hands". How hard is it to measure them ?
Or do you really expect me or some one else telepathically to figure out which exact parts you have, go out and obtain same parts, so I/we can measure them for you ?

Of course you could just go directly to any one of those "about Twenty different vendors" and ask them what equipment/method/tooling they use or what the thread sizes are, but that might get too complicated also.

 

So, apparently we're not even working on a vintage Chrysler or anything HAMB appropriate.
I apologize for having wasted both of our time.

 

You can call it anything you want but until you can measure and quote the major pitch diameter and determine the TPI no one can help you. The K772 diameter across the threads is 1.837 and the K727 is 2.012, the chart at qa1 does not quote threads per inch for any ball joints. There is a 2"-16 American Standard Extra Fine thread that has a major diameter of 1.959, but again, that does not correspond to any thread dimension found on those ball joints.
Yes, Victory Performance and Left Hander have taps but I still don't think they are of any standard thread size.

 

For anyone else like me who has nothing better to do than follow along on a topic they have no experience in nor any need to know about, this explains a bit about these ball joints:

https://www.spcalignment.com/subjectFAQ/Installing Screw-In Style Ball Joints.pdf

 

31Vicky. Is this still to do with the tubular a-arms you are making?

 

The boss called again,,,,
WTF are you guys doing because all he asked was how big the table tops were.

 

The text from Blowby's link:

February 23, 2016 • Rev B • ©2016 Niwot Corp. dba Specialty Products

Installing Screw-In Style Ball Joints

Q1: What is the proper way to remove and install the Chrysler screw-in type ball joint?

A1: The Chrysler "screw-in" ball joint was used mostly as a front upper control arm ball joint from 1962- 1989. Chrysler also used a larger screw-in ball joint for the lower control arm from 1957-1962. From the factory they were pressed into stamped steel control arms. The threads around the ball joint are not normal screw type threads, they are very shallow. The shallow threads made removal of the balljoints from the OE stamped arms possible without the use of a press. Replacement ball joints could be installed with a special socket instead of needing to be pressed in.


Because there is not a standard for the "thread" that was used, there are often dimensional differences between how various ball joint manufactures turn the threads. This becomes very important with our adjustable upper control arm. Because our ball joint plate has a thick sleeve that retains the ball joint, it does not give like a stamped arm, and so some thread profiles may not easily be screwed in. In this case, it may be necessary to press the ball joint into place and then check torque.

For those wanting to screw the balljoints into an arm, special sockets are needed. The 68880 has a 1-29/64" opening and is used for all the upper ball joints. The 68890 has a 2-9/64" opening and used for lower ball joints.

Parts Referenced: 94002, 94008, 94450, 94451, 94460, 94461

 

There is some kind of thread on the chaser,
And that thread has some spec written down a drawing,
It's a special tool designed to do a specific job, CHASE THREADS.

I fully understand that the info is not fundamental common knowledge, maybe there's only 3 people alive who know what that thread is or ever seen the drawings and that's ok.

 

yup, it's hard to tell someone what thread size it is, when it isn't a thread size.

If you have the parts in your hand, you can make a thread chaser, without seeing the elusive drawing.

 

Never had one go in and not tighten up. Never had a case where one came loose in service that I was made aware of. I guess it's hard to know 100 % for certain but it's not been a problem.

Chrysler service manual says to replace ball joints by screwing old out and the new one in and torquing to 125 or 150 ft. lbs. depending on which car model it is.

 

Thanks for supplying that information.

 

Just say'n!

 

dddenny beat me to it

 

One last time: the threads on original (vintage) Chrysler b-js and these "modern" components OP is dealing with were more than likely NOT done with any tap, die or thread chaser.
They were probably produced with a CNC (Lathe or Mill) with custom pitch drive set-up. Simple enough ?

 

I get it you don't know, got it the first time. I get it it you can't answer the question, got that the first time too.
Simple :

Simpler - some little CNC programmer back in 1958 built something to roll threads.

 

lol...

 

Nice!!! Thanks for the tip.

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

I think the question has been answered. There is information for every standard thread used in industry, if you can measure what you have and show us that particular diameter and thread per inch count on a published chart then I will gladly admit my error.
Until then I will continue to believe it is a bastard size used as a means to an end.

 

The question -
Does anyone know what tapped thread Chrysler screw in balljoints are?

The answer-
"Bastard size"

Just pick any fucking "bastard size" you want out of your pocket and it will be "bastard size" because that's what you picked and it must therefore be correct.


The alternate questions -
Why do you need to know
Why not just swap the arm
What are you trying to do
What's it going in
Who's it for
What color will it look best
Why not measure it
Why not press them in


Some of you guys are smarter, wiser, and older than me and soooooo far none of you know (except maybe beaner who's forgot more than I know) Neither do I know what the thread is bastard or not and now I don't feel so bad.

 

Could be an unusual thread degree, too. Just going to throw that out there to muddy the water and be less than helpful.

 

Sorry. Unlike some others, I forgot a small detail in my original reply and didn't realize some one would scrutinize and take it so (too?) literally. Well, fixed it.

Man, chasing threads like this (pun intended) could cause a person some brain-damage or at least headaches. I need to quit before I get any (more).

 

well yeah, it's not a normal thread. We all know that.

this is an upper for an old A body


1.642 major diameter
1.622 minor diameter
12 TPI

Have fun!

 

Won't work they are a knuckle thread. Most of us are not going to have the proper tools to measure them.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Knuckle_thread

 

Kinda like the young kids at the parts store, they just don't know anything about our beloved cars.

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Yes, I use a torque wrench to install them... Done many and them some. I never use the press unless it's for the later stuff...

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

I realize this is an old thread but I have information on screw-in (Chrysler type) ball joints. I'm building a front suspension with a Rambler Ambassador knuckle and needed to find a non-Rambler ball joint to fabricate a lower control arm. Needless to say Summit doesn't have a RAMBLER section so I gotta do everything from first principles.

Though I'll use OEM type parts the racer fab suppliers, here QA1.net, provide detailed specs and cross-reference the OEM part number. There's about a dozen "popular" ball joints. My particular problem was to find one with compatible taper (easy: 7 degree, 1.5:12) but the right taper root OD. The Rambler part -- still can't find the *correct* Moog number -- is .739", and a K719 is .784", bought one, it works).

Here's QA1's spec sheet on screw-in ball joints, including some thread info. The thread is large, 1.837", I'm not bothering to work it out in any greater detail, I'm buying weld-in ball joint sleeves (below).

https://www.qa1.net/assets/uploads/documents/general/Ball-Joint-Dimensions_Screw-In.pdf

Earlier this year data on all types (bolt on, screw-in, press-in) were in a single, longer, document, at a different URL, so in case it move again here's how I found it:

QA1.net website --> PRODUCTS --> Racing Ball Joints. Select the type. Scroll down to the "description" after the image and product gunk. This:

Need more dimensions, including stud length and misalignment angles? View and download the full dimensions tables.

Here is a typical ball joint sleeve:
https://www.circletracksupply.com/ball-joint-sleeve-threaded-screw-in-press-in.html


Here's what I gleaned about ball joints, from the POV of a fabricator looking to build a lower control arm to replace an oddball trunnion system.

Bolt in and screw-in are fabricator-friendly. I prefer bolt-in but can't find one with a fat taper.

QA1 and a hundred other race fab shops sell "ball joint plate" and "ball joint sleeve" parts.

Chrysler has (at least) two threads, "small" and "large". K719, K772 are small thread.

Most of the simple fab components are for "upper control arm". Seems most circle track types buy/build these monster strong, heavy one-piece lower arms but my home built sports car weighs 2250 lbs and I need two-piece lower arms to work with the existing inner pivot bar. Upper arms aren't under any side load to speak of, where the lower arm has to handle braking/turns and curb bonks (and worse).

I've been buying parts fro RockAuto just to measure them and return them, and calling a few helpful providers willing to actually measure their parts for me (RideTech, QA1, a few others).

Yeah my car is outside traditional though it's old enough, but problem solving is problem solving. Hope this helps.

 

The threads are not ordinary machined threads. They are a shallow triangular profile usually used when OEMs have a part self-tap threads into a stamped arm. This is part K719.

 

Just a heads up on the spindle,
Argo manufacturing makes new AMC style forged spindles and stubs. Custom sized ball joint holes and custom king pin inclination available. Very nice parts. Might help

 

I hadn't seen those, thanks! I'm working with the much earlier suspension, the double-wishbone Nash based one on the small Americans. Different chassis than the AMX/Jav/later Americans and all that. Apparently the Pacer knuckle/spindle setup is popular for serious mods. (In the AMC world the knuckle, spindle and steering arm are three bolt-together parts, unlike GM's one-piece "spindle".)

Here's the suspension I'm working on here.

https://www.sr-ix.com/AMC/Suspension-1950-1963-small-highperf/index.html