Projects Almost Funny - AWB Barracuda Funny Car Build

he has a fake bug catcher, too.

 

The day I learned Garlits had his hand in these I wanted to fire him also!

 

Is this allowed for an event like Drag Week?

"I'm lazy" said the man that just built a freaking awesome race car in less time than it takes to grow a child in the womb.

Both miracles in my opinion.

 

yes, you can do whatever you want as far as swapping parts for racing--except change the long block.

 

You're not gonna like this solution, but there is a guy making a digitally controlled barrel valve used in conjunction with a wideband O2 sensor to make old mechanical injectors work on the street. It uses all the original injection parts, including the mechanical pump. You can use it to map a fuel curve, but you're on your own for ignition. Search YouTube or that auction site for InstaJet. There is a cool vid of the little valve in use on a drive.

 

^^^^^ That is what I meant earlier about Jim being a locomotive engineer. He'd be the go between pushing and pulling various lever's to keep it going as smoothly as possible rather than electronics.

 

How did the whole car work out on the road? Was it as noisy as you thought it would be? Did the seats work out? 1000 + miles in something uncomfortable just wouldn't cut it no matter how it run on the track. Seems it might be a little loose in the front with the weight towards the rear tires.

 

bathtub intake with a home made replacement top for the F.I. ?

 

it was mostly ok on the street. The engine is loud. The gas pedal location is not very good, that's the only thing that really bothered me, aside from how loud the engine is. The car did fine in rain, and on the freeway, and on the twisty mountain roads we got into the last night.

 

I know you've got your own thing going here, but I couldn't hate on you for making it work.
The engineering team at Chrysler and Bosch couldn't make it work but we've got some stuff today they didn't have in 1958

 

I'm not interested in putting any electronic controls in the car. Period.

I don't mind doing some work to swap it over for racing, if that's what it takes to get what I want.

 

I know you don't want to spend a bunch of time tuning, and this is an over simplfication, but with a quick disconnect main byp*** pill holder you could have a pill to fuel the engine to about 3,000 RPM for the street then swap in the race pill at the track. The street AFR might not be perfect, but saves a lot of work swapping carbs on and off if you worked it out.

 

there's more to it than just changing the pill....I still haven't seen anyone driving one on the street that doesn't mention using the shutoff valve to control the mixture during cruise

 

FYI ... The ‘58 “Electrojector” EFI systems were made by Bendix, not Bosch.

 

I’d switch between carbs and injection, no question. Why fight with a hard to manage mechanical injector on the road when you can use the carbs you already have? At the track you remove the carbs and cap the line from the electric pump, install the hat that you have all dialed in and put the belt on and hook up the lines for a belt driven injection pump.

 

I'm looking at seeing if I can set it up so I have to disconnect very little, or no, plumbing. The pump can be removed from the belt drive unit with three nuts, and the tank could be mounted so it comes off with the lines all attached.

We'll see how that works out, it's still a fantasy

 

Jim Kinsler makes quick connect fittings to make the disconnect quick with no mess


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I'm considering installing an Enderle stack injection on the Model A with no electronics.

 

That’s kinda what I was thinking. Carbs sitting on top of the injector plate. If you leave the carbs on to control the airflow going in, will it harm them to run them dry? Or would the suction created by the blower **** the guts out of the fuel bowls? A simple shutoff in the gas line would get the carbs dry, and like you say, hook up the fuel pump belt and go. I have no idea if it would work or not, but sounds like it would be fun to try. Carbs for the street, mechanical injection for the strip, just by closing a valve, opening another, and putting on a belt.

 

Is it in your day dreams that the injection is below the blower in the intake? So the injection stays on the car but is not flowing. Where you are removing the scoop and ****erflies or “throttle bodies” and slapping on a set of carbs mounted to a blower adapter plate, hooking the fuel supply and throttle cable?


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I am thinking about completely removing the carb fuel system, and installing the injection system, then switch back after racing. Unbolt it from the top of the blower, there are only 4 or 6 bolts retaining either the hat or the carb adapter to the blower.

I think I won't need port nozzles for a blown gas system on an engine set up like mine is.

 

^^^^^ ?

 

Are you sure you got room to store the injection unit inside the car with everything else ?
Maybe you could put it on the roof for direct air injection on your head while driving...ha ha ha

 

Once the hood and new fenders are done storage shouldn't be an issue.

 

Mechanical fuel injection will work on the street. The way it's set up is for wide open throttle and ideal. So let's look at the barrel valve. What you need is to get the air fuel ratio right clear through the range from ideal to wide open. Get is on and set up to run right at the track. Then work on street driving . Get a gauge to check air / fuel and you can check against rpms. Then you need to modify the ramp on barrel valve. It might take a couple try's before you grind one that works.
This is what worked for me. I have one other thing I would like to try on the barrel valve modification. Old school racing is cool ****.

 

Take a look at this injection. Read about how to tune and it's the same as what I'm talking about.
http://elcorramotors.blogspot.com/2012/06/lake-posa-fuel-injectors.html?m=1

 

Would a Dial-A-Jet be helpful, in conjunction with the shut-off?

 

squirrel -

I know a couple of people that have run Port Injection on the street in the past. Small and big Chevy and a Ford.
A fair amount of work and bad gas mileage is the common theme. Takes a lot of work on the barrel valve to make it truly street-able.

I know a guy that's friends with the owner of the port injected, silver Chevy II. I may be able to contact him if that's still your plan.

Mike

 

I'm not planning on running mechanical injection on the street.

 

Might be a good idea to design swivel nuts with tethers, at the end of the day your tired and in a rush to switch to carbs. Bolt it all up and come up short 1 carb stud nut
Spent an hour or two looking for it at the track with no success , push the car on a trailer and spend next day with intake manifold removed looking for it through plug holes using a bore scope, turn it over by hand
(recheck with bore scope) then turn over with starter , lots of pucker factor when you finally start it.
You never do find it