Technical Heat shrink and solder wire connectors

These might not be new (or news) to you but I hadn’t seen them before this.

A shrink tube with a low temperature solder sleeve and a couple of rings of sealing adhesive for a waterproof joint.

I bought some to try one out and they really work

So since I’m going to be doing a pile of wiring on my RPU I ordered up a kit with 300 assorted different sizes

From this


To this, the joint is really well done and I just used my regular heat gun.

 

Does the heat shrink take heat better that the usual stuff. To me to get the lead (if lead?) hot enough along with the wire to bond correctly has me questioning how good it is. Your happy but will I be?

 

we had a thread about those, or they appeared in another thread, not too long ago. Mixed reviews...some folks wonder how you can ever get a good solder joint, without heating the wires hot enough to melt solder? but those who used them, didn't report problems with them.

 

For me, it’s regular solder and heat shrinks. Been working for me for forty years, probably not going to change.



Bones

 

the OEMs use things like these
they also have something similar when repairing airbag systems(not the suspensions)
the heats gun solder must work if they trust them for things like that

 

I’m quite impressed I think you would be too.

The heat shrink vinyl tubing is thicker than normal heat shrink and is pretty tough.

The low temperature solder ring actually contains a fluxing agent and I can see that it tinned the wires and joined them nicely.

I put that joint in my bench vice holding one end of the wire and pulled on it as hard as I could.

The wire stretched and deformed until the wire and the insulation broke and pulled apart an 1 1/2” away from the joint.

The joint itself wasn’t touched.

I’m a believer.

Old guys are hard to change, I know I am one

 

Looks as tight as white on milk . I’m goin to try some thanks for the info


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one reson that the OEs use them is speed, the other is that user error goes down over conventional solder.

 

I just recently saw these being used on a fellow club members car, I gave it a try and was really impressed with how well the work, I tried to pull the connection apart and it held fast.

I'll use these in the future. HRP

 

Used them at work also combined with the crimp on heat shrink connectors. I'll solder bigger wire but the small ones are ok with a crimp.

 

Be careful with soldering.
Many cheap solders will crack easily, even better materials can crack if a lot is used.

Road vibrations and bad/heavy solder joints = hard to find electrical problems..!
Even the Aerospace industry uses...crimp connections everywhere possible..!

Mike

 

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...ink-solder-and-shrink-tube-terminals.1116912/

 

20 years ago a salesman came in with those. His company supplies OEM at the time. They were a bit pricey. He had free samples. They seemed to work fine. I always kept some around. He retired about the same time as the crash in 2008. The company restructured with maybe no salesman to visit small shops. Now the only time I use them is when they come in a kit. I never remember a problem with them.

 

I’ve heard people here state that they had problems with their solder joints. In 1979 when I went to work on fire trucks , the previous mechanic use the little blue scotch connectors, ran me ragged fixing those connectors. I then started making a physical connection by twisting the clean wires and then soldering, and covering it with a heat shrink. I soldered every connection. In 33 years I never had one of my connections fail. During this time I had many crimp connections fail. I always used the best solder I could find, mainly from radio shack. Also had a verity of soldering guns, from a pencil tip to a O/A torch. Just my way.
With the connectors mentioned here, there is no physical connection. I would only use it on new wires. Just my .02


Bones

 

I have been using these connectors and they have impressed me. I used to buy them from waytek wire, but were expensive. Not you can buy an assortment package from Amazon for about 20c per piece. Only problem has been when you have to flex at/near the joint (door hinge area) broke.

 

I’ve been looking for these where did you get them


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The link in post #12 above ^^^^^^

 

They sell them at Princess auto locally but they’re too pricey.

I ordered some on EBay this morning and amazon also sells them.

I got 300 assorted sizes and they cost $39 free shipping.

Princess auto on the other hand wants $11.50 for 10 connectors in 14/16 gauge.

 

Thanks unfortunately we don’t have princess auto in the states eBay will work


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As will Amazon

 

Soldered field connections have been illegal in the electrical industry for over 60 years, for multiple reasons. The only soldered connections allowed are if they're part of an 'approved assembly' that is listed with UL or another recognized listing authority.

If you're having issues with failed crimps, you're not crimping it right...

 

I wondered how long before our resident “expert” weighed in

We’re talking about auto electrical systems and people solder things all the time.

These joints will be fine, actually better than fine.

I believe they have their place as do the regular crimp terminals I’ll be using.

 

Interesting to hear your review on these, good that they are working for you. I’ve always soldered everything, didn’t realize I was a hardened criminal. In fact I teach our students how to solder. Is that aiding and abetting? Hmmm....


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UL DOT what's the difference?

 

I like them and do use them but I have to be careful. They do not work well if the heat shrink to the ends of the connector isn’t shrunk and snug down to the wire - you can’t rely on just the center solder. In doing so it nearly melts the wire insulation to get the end material to shrink down on the wire. Yes they do work but ‘low heat’? No...


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According to NEC 110.14(B) splices , soldering splices is still allowed ..

 

Sounds like they need to be "mechanically" joined first before soldering though. The kind of connectors being talked about are not mechanically joined.

 

We all built our cars to meet any and all applicable codes and standards don’t we

We’re hot rodders and wouldn’t dream of doing something like coloring outside the lines

Seriously guys I myself have mentioned this sort of thing in the past however when it comes to something like this I’ll trust my own testing.

I put that splice through way more than anything it would ever experience in service on my car.

They work so take it from there, use them if you want to or not.

But save the regulations talk for something else more important.

 

Glad to live in a free country where we all can believe what we want, right or wrong!
I agree with Blue one. As I said in an earlier post, 500 thousand and still going. On a SEMI.

To each his own! I still prefer Red heads over Blonds.

Ben

 

They sure look pretty.

I hate wiring. I'm using wire nuts on the stereo in my daily. The other day when I pushed the gas pedal to set the choke it hooked on the wires and pulled the whole stereo through the dash onto the floor. The wire nuts held beautifully. I'll be watching this thread in case I can offer any advice.