Technical Rebel Wire Harness diagrams and wiring info

Rebel43, that’s kinda what I though might be the reason. It’s hard to compete with those offshore people, I never could understand how they can manufacture stuff so cheap ( and crappy) ?
They used to make a circuit breaker that fits in a fuse holder, maybe a person could substitute one of those for , at least, the headlight circuit. Fuses scare me in that circuit, had a bad experience with a fused headlight on a motorcycle in my youth. Just thinking out loud...

Very impressed with your “ customer service”! You just don’t see that anymore, and especially helping hottrodders that have problems with other brands!

Will recommend your system due to your outstanding customer service.


Bones

 

Circuit breakers to replace the larger size plastic (atc?) fuses are available at the big box auto parts store.


Phil

 

Yeah, that’s the ones I used and had some that fit in the “tube” type fuses. Ford even used some of those back in the day on their electrical systems. Even had a Ford part number on them.
Haven’t seen any for the smaller fuses. Hope someone makes them.


Bones

 

Trying to decide between the 9+3 and the 16 for my shoebox Ford. I'm planning on running an electric fuel pump, maybe an electric fan, probably an electric choke, and a 3rd brake light. Which of those need to go through the "+3" and which can be handled with just a relay?

 

I'd probably go with the 16 circuit. If you run the 9+3 you can use one of the extra circuits for the fuel pump and choke (hot in start and run) but you'd need to buy some wire and extend them out to the front and rear. That would still leave you with 1 extra keyed hot and 1 constant hot pigtail from the panel.

With the 16 circuit, for about 30.00 more, it already has the electric choke wire, a keyed hot 14ga wire to use for the fuel pump, plus interior lights, a power window wire (can be used as an extra keyed hot) and the same other wiring as the 9+3.

Either way you go, you'll need to put the electric fan on a relay and power it off of the battery. You can use a keyed hot from the fuse panel to trigger the relay, but don't want to power the relay off of it. Most fuel pumps only draw about 7.5-10amps, from what I've seen, and don't need a relay. Unless you just want to run one (with a safety switch or something), or are using a higher amp draw pump. Either kit would really work, but for the money, I'd more suggest the 16 circuit and a fan relay kit

 

Good to know, thanks. I plan to use some sort of safety switch (whether oil pressure or inertial) for the fuel pump, do I need a relay in that case or can I just wire it in directly?

 

I'd use a relay, you could still power that relay off the fuse panel (if it's a low amp draw) and use the safety switch to trigger the relay (most I think trigger the ground side of the relay) but you could do either depending on the switch setup (hot trigger or ground trigger on the relay)

 

Gotcha. Thanks for your help, this thread is gold! I just wish there was one for plumbing (brakes, fuel lines, etc.)


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This is why I detest that style of crimp. Depending on the crimper/crimp, it may take three, maybe four operations to get a 'proper' crimp at each connection. Too damned finicky...

It would be helpful if you post a good, clear pic of one done right so they know what to look for, I would but can't find one.

I did a crimping tutorial, but it's focused on barrel crimps, which are far easier to work with and give a superior connection.
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/crimping-tutorial.1127519/#post-12800116

 

GREAT THREAD!!! I JUST WANTED TO THROW OUT THERE A BIG THANKS FOR THE SUPER FAST RESPONSE FROM THE FOLKS IN SERVICE!!!!!!!
HARNESS COSTS VARY BUT SERVICE IS EVERYTHING TO ME IN THE GARAGE!!!
THANKS

 

Just saw this video in a Toro electrical class
Simple yet informative, for those that need to understand the basics



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I was looking into a bulkhead connector and came across this Delphi weatherpack 22 pin connector.

Looking at Painless wirings instructions for it they say :

This kit contains all the necessary parts to create a weather-proof through panel connection


for up to 22 wires. The terminals in this kit are rated at a constant amperage of 20 amps, it is not


recommended that charging, headlight, or other high amperage wiring pass through this connector.


Doing so may result in damage to the connectors, terminals, and at worse could result in fire. This


connector kit is ideal for running turn/brake signal lighting, parking/tail light, gauge wiring, wiper


motor, fuel injection, etc.

I have to wonder however about the headlight wiring and wiring for the volts gauge, as far as headlight wiring goes can you run through a connector like this after using a relay ?

What other wires could you possibly not run through this type of bulkhead connector ?

I was hoping to be able to find something that would contain all of the wires coming through my firewall so that it would simply be a matter of unplugging a connector if I had to remove the body ( 26 T RPU)

 

Great thread. Rebel43, I am impressed with what you have been doing here, great info. I think I am going to re wire my drag coupe with your product. I like what I see, and hear about your harnesses .

 

Blue One, with 22 circuits going through that connector, it looks like you could use two terminals for the headlights. At 20 amp per terminal, two would give you 40 amps. Just a thought. Most hot rods have way fewer than 22 circuits.



Bones

 

Couple thoughts on this.

Would work if the headlight and horn relays were mounted downstream of the plug; but you would also have to add protection for those circuits out there, too.

Your main power wire would have to go around the plug, of course.

You be adding three more places for trouble in each circuit.

You would adding more stuff outside where it shouldn't show.

A single plug thing might be hard to set up in a convenient location for all fore, aft, and engine wiring.

Besides making the electrical system more complicated the plug might not to attractive either.

If there was an overload and one connection got hot and melted the connector, the whole thing is junk or worse.

Just my opinions; your take may be totally different.

 

The only advantage of the firewall plug is to ease body removal later. If you never intend to remove body it doesn't serve much purpose.
Without a plug, body removal requires a rewire. Not the end of the world.

Phil

 

If you can't run a headlight circuit though it, it's not rated for 20 amps, no matter what painless says.

Look at Deutsch connectors... https://www.wirecare.com/deutsch-assembler?contacts=2&family=Industrial&series=dt

Not cheap, and you won't find a single bulkhead connector that covers all amperage ranges, but they offer connectors with ratings of up to 100 amps.

 

I would agree with the other responses about this. I was just looking at that same connector on ebay yesterday for about $40.00. Didn't get too far with it though. I think it could just create more issues down the road. That's the trouble I've seen on most of these is the amp ratings and gauges that the terminals come in. It does make some possible trouble spots since it's another connection being made in the circuit. You could lower the amperage by running relays after the bulkhead connector, but I still don't know if I would trust it. Crazy Steve is right too, If it can't handle headlights, it's not rated up to 20 amps per connection. I'd be cautious of using it

 

Thanks fellas, I’m thinking my best plan is to just group some circuits together into reasonable sized bundles and use the appropriate sized grommets to get them out to where they need to go.

I think I can do it cleanly enough that way without creating more problems or getting things more complicated than they need to be.

Have to dive in and see how it goes

 

Personally, I wouldn't use a single connector, I'd break it down into 'systems' and use a plug for each. Lighting, cooling if running an electric fan, and engine would be the likely breakdown.

 

I suppose I should go with the 16, since I have electric fan, fuel pump, fan on trans cooler, and MSD. Would that be the best choice? What do you all think.

 

Hi Rebel43, I have your most basic loom kit for use in my 27T Modified. Over here in the UK we need separate indicator/turn lights (coloured orange) and brake lights (coloured red). Any tips on how best to separate them out. I will be using a mechnical switch on the pedal and taking a spare ignition live from somewhere near the fuse box panel.

 

@blackjack
If the harness has a "third brake light" wire; it can be used for that pupose.

 

Just wanted to say; I have had some issues recently with lighting on my 36 and even though the previous owner bought the harness from Rebel way back in 2014 (as the receipt I have shows) I have been speaking to Jeremy @ Rebel and he has been outstanding in provide great customer support w/my issues, A BIG THANKS to Jeremy @ Rebel Wiring!

 

Okay, I've got a couple of questions on my '51 Ford sedan and the 9+3 harness I got from you.
First thing I want to say is- Wow, great product! This is my second complete car wiring project (but I have been working on and wiring Harley's for a little over 30 years) and I like to see well thought-out and laid-out harnesses, yours is excellent.
Okay, now to my questions-
1. my ignition switch isn't laid out like the ones shown in your instructions, I have four terminals on the back of mine. They are marked: Acc (accessories- brown wire), Coil (orange and pink wires), ST (I'm thinking start? and should get the purple wire), and AM (I'm thinking ammeter?)
So do I have it figured right?

Ignition Switch by brokedownbiker posted Dec 19, 2018 at 3:15 PM

2. I'm having trouble figuring out the turn signal switch wiring, my original harness in the column has six wires coming out of it. One of them has to be for the horn so that leaves me 5 wires. They are faded and hard to figure out the original colors on some of them.

Turn Signal Wiring At Column by brokedownbiker posted Dec 19, 2018 at 3:15 PM

Any ideas on how to decipher this and match to my new harness?

 

The 16 circuit would probably be a good fit. Relay your fans, and just trigger them off of the fuse panel. The fuel pump probably won't need to be relayed, unless you wanted to run a safety switch, or unless it is some type of high amp draw pump. If it's just a low pressure pump and doesn't need to be relayed, you can use the orange accessory wire in the 16 circuit kit (hot in run and start). There's also an electric choke wire that you can use, and if you don't need it, it can be used as a relay trigger for the fans. The MSD will just be powered off of the coil wire in the harness. Let me know if you need anything else. Sorry guys, I didn't get any notifications on these new posts and just caught them when helping someone else.

 

Really sorry I missed this, for some reason I didn't get a notification there were new posts. If you're running LED's (yeah yeah, I know...we don't say LED here) You could use the 18ga orange 3rd brake light wire for the brake lights, and just use the turn signal wires as turn signals. If they're going to be regular incandescent bulbs, I would probably run a new separate 16ga wire from the brake switch back to the brake bulbs. Something like this

 

Thanks. Much appreciated

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If I don't reply to a question, something is up. I was helping Brokedownbiker on the phone and he mentioned he posted here and I checked to see if I missed a notification or something, then saw these questions. Sorry to be late on them guys, I'm caught up on them now. If anyone needs anything let me know. I'll watch it closer in case one falls through the cracks!

 

I talked to brokedownbiker about his ignition switch, and he's bench testing the turn signal switch so we can figure it out. I just wanted to also respond here in case anyone needs the info. He's completely right in his assumptions: AM (ammeter) would be your ignition switch power, ACC would be the brown accessory wire, COIL would be the pink coil and orange ignition wires, and ST would be the purple start wire. After the bench test of the turn signal switch we can post the results here to show the process of testing and labeling the wires.